Tiger Myrtle. (small hand size)

[swagman]

CHOOSING THE CORRECT SIZE OF FILE FOR YOUR SAW:

The most common advice given for choosing a file to use on a particular saw is to select one whose face is twice as wide as the edge of the tooth being filed.

Implicit in this rule of thumb is the assumption that a file wears evenly over its faces. In my experience, it does not. Rather, the corners of the file dull or fail first, even while there is still life left in the faces of the file. Rotating the file to a fresh corner restores the cutting ability, even though a portion of the face that was previously used is asked to continue cutting. This overlap allows one file to work for several different tooth pitches.

http://www.blackburntools.com/blog/conc ... w-selling/


I am in total agreement with Isaac;

My preference is to work within the range of 1/2 - 3/4s of the files flat face width, to gullet dept.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

Set was applied to the teeth; a light stoning on each side; then the backsaw was tested on rip and crosscut grain to check for tracking. All good. :mrgreen:







All done.

Appreciate your interest.

regards Stewie;

 

[galleywood]

I thoroughly enjoyed following the project.
Thanks

 

[WoodMangler]

All done.
Appreciate your interest.
regards Stewie;

Thank you for the WIP, absolutely fascinating - and a lovely saw, too.

 

[n0legs]

Gorgeous, absolutely stunning Stewie =D>
That handle is beautiful.

 

[swagman]

Another consideration in selecting a file is the corner radius of the file. This radius increases as the length and width of the file increase. In extreme cases, the radius of the file can actually be larger than the front edge of a tooth. In this case, the actual rake of the tooth will be greater than expected, leading to unpredictable and unsatisfactory performance. This phenomenon is much more pronounced in smaller teeth (about 13 ppi and finer).
Furthermore, since the gullet takes its shape from the file, a larger file (with its larger radius) leaves a smaller gullet. With less space to carry sawdust, the saw will not clear the cut as well as one with a larger gullet. In general, gullet size and corner radius are of greater concern with small teeth and files, while face width is the more important consideration on larger teeth and files. http://www.blackburntools.com/blog/conc ... w-selling/

Needle files: These files are made by Glardon in Switzerland, and are of the highest quality. These are superior to any file (new or old) that I have ever used, in both sharpness and longevity. While they are more expensive than traditional taper saw files, they have several advantages.
First, their durability makes them cost effective, particularly when cutting in new teeth.
Second, the smaller corner radius of the file makes them the best choice for smaller teeth (I use them for all teeth 11 ppi and finer). The sharper corner creates more room in the gullet for holding sawdust to clear from the gullet. There is some concern that this sharper gullet will not release sawdust that gets packed in. While this may be a valid concern when used in green woods, these fine teeth are rarely used for cutting these woods. Some have also expressed concern that the sharp corner creates a stress riser, but I have seen no evidence of this in any of the saws I have filed with them. http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools ... index.html

Total agreement with Isaac.

I use the Swiss Made; Vallorbe 180mm, Three Square Needle Files. http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/needle- ... -1149.html

I use NOS Nicholson (usa)Taper Files; and NOS Wiltshire Taper Files (Australia); for less than 10 tpi hand saws.

Stewie;

 

[pedder]

Some have also expressed concern that the sharp corner creates a stress riser, but I have seen no evidence of this in any of the saws I have filed with them.

Yeah, that is an old story; I read several times. But everyone who looked at a japanese saw, knows it is not relevant to saws and saw filiing. :lol:

I use needlefiles wherever it is possible. The biggest needlefile (200mm) has a side width of about 2,8mm wich allows me to file teeth from 20 tpi to 11tpi.

For bigger teeth (6-9tpi) I just found some new old stock from a unknown german make that stands up to the old Vallorbe quality.


Cheers
Pedder

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Stewie,

Why are you determined to discard the use of paper templates. Is it a case of tradition, or does the paper impede the file action in any way?

BTW - A stunning tool you have created - How many hours hands on time do you estimate on this one?

David

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Does filing the teeth with a 10° rake make for a smoother cut?

I have only ever filed mine 0° (rip), while cutting aggresively it can be a little "grabby" unless all teeth are perfectly jointed.

David

 

[swagman]

David. The paper and adhesive tends to build up along the corner edge of the file.

The move to solid templates eliminates that concern.

Actual amount of hours to complete this backsaw build; 24 - 28hrs.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

I have only ever filed mine 0° (rip), while cutting aggresively it can be a little "grabby" unless all teeth are perfectly jointed.


David. I would recommend you move within a range of 5 - 10*.

Others may wish to advice you with their own recommendations.

Stewie;

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks for the response Stewie.

I several old saws in need of sharpening, I'll give it a go with your 10° rake to see how it works out for me.

David

 

[swagman]

Thanks for the response Stewie.

I several old saws in need of sharpening, I'll give it a go with your 10° rake to see how it works out for me.

David

Hi David. When you start out experimenting with rake angle changes always err on the side of caution. Suggest you start with 5*. If you need a bit more rake angle, then increase it slightly to 8*.

Remember the golden rule; if you need to play catch up on the odd tooth as your filing, take it from the back of the tooth and never the front. always protect your front rake angle,

Enjoy the opportunity to experiment.

(caveat) The above advice is based on the assumption you are shaping new teeth on the saw.

regards Stewie;

 

[pedder]

To test a rake angel, you don't need to change the complete toothing.
1 stroke at the front is enough. Think of micro bevels.
I use that sometimes to soften the toe of a saw for easier starting.

Cheers
Pedder