Tiger Myrtle. (small hand size)

[swagman]

Slowly getting back into some saw making work.

Small hand size; Tiger Myrtle handle wood; as per clients request.

The handle shape after being cut out on the Scroll Saw; and the end grain sealed with shellac.

The handle shape will be worked closer to the line during the rasping stage.

Stock thickness(24mm).

Stewie;

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Good to see you back at it again Stewie, I look forward to the WIP.
David

 

[swagman]

Thanks David.

 

[David C]

What beautiful timber !

David

 

[swagman]

What beautiful timber !

David

Hi David. A rather expensive choice of timber if you can find it in suitable sized boards.
http://www.distinctivetimbers.com.au/

Tiger Myrtle derives its name from the Tasmanian tiger. Considered extinct from 1936.
http://aso.gov.au/titles/historical/tas ... age/clip1/

Stewie;

 

[mu]

Welcome back with this amazing introduction, I'm looking forward =D>

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I had a look at the DT website Stewie, some incredible woods offered.

In particular the tiger myrtle 4 x 2 stock. What a beautiful but incredibly expensive workshop you could build with it (assuming you could find enough of it) :lol:

David

 

[swagman]

Hi David. Surprisingly I dont charge any extra if the client decides on Tiger Myrtle from the choice of handle woods I have available.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

The handle shape has been rasped to the line; the edge grain then squared 90* to the primary face; the saw bolt assemblies installed slightly proud, then flat sanded flush to the handle faces. My preference at this stage is to place a numeric mark on each of the saw bolts assemblies so I can repeatedly refit them in their same location.

The next stage will be to complete the saw plate slot, cut out the spine mortise, and then install the saw plate assembly.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

Note: The camera angle is giving a false impression the inside of the cheek is not perfectly rounded.

Stewie;

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I think out of the whole operation the one aspect which would cause me most concern is cutting the saw plate kerf. At this point a whole lot of time and effort has gone into the project I expect.

On a seperate note. Over the weekend I sharpened and set a couple of vintage (although good condition) tenon saws (14" plates). Having jointed abd shaped the teeth I began to set them using a No 1 saw set. I broke 3 of the teeth on the first saw when I set the saw set just less than midway in the range for a 13ppi plate.

It maybe the steel is just old & stressed and past its usefullness or should I go for the lower end in the scale for general work. I haven't attempted to set the second saw yet for fear of breaking more teeth.

David

 

[D_W]

Note: The camera angle is giving a false impression the inside of the cheek is not perfectly rounded.

Stewie;

Looks good so far! There's a lot of detail work left defining those curves for anyone to be making any critical thoughts yet.

 

[swagman]

I think out of the whole operation the one aspect which would cause me most concern is cutting the saw plate kerf. At this point a whole lot of time and effort has gone into the project I expect.

On a seperate note. Over the weekend I sharpened and set a couple of vintage (although good condition) tenon saws (14" plates). Having jointed abd shaped the teeth I began to set them using a No 1 saw set. I broke 3 of the teeth on the first saw when I set the saw set just less than midway in the range for a 13ppi plate.

It maybe the steel is just old & stressed and past its usefullness or should I go for the lower end in the scale for general work. I haven't attempted to set the second saw yet for fear of breaking more teeth.

David

you will note the numbers around the anvil. They do not represent the PPI of the saw being set. They are index numbers for repeatability only. Once you achieve an amount of set for a particular saw you like, note the number and reuse it for that saw and similar conditioned saw of a similar PPI. If the saw seems to bind, increase the amount of set by adjusting the set to a lower number in small increments and resetting the saw until you achieve the proper amount of set. https://www.wenzloffandsons.com/faq/36- ... tting.html

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Nice one Stewie, thanks for the link.

David

 

[swagman]

Prep work completed on the saw plate assembly. Final dimensions will be 14 inch x 3 5/8 inch below the spine. (0.025 gauge).

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

The saw plate slot; and spine mortise are now done.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

Backsaw handle fitted to the saw plate assembly. The excess length on the brass hardback can now be removed.



Similar method used to align the saw plate holes to those pre drilled within the saw handle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAwAUWomd0I#t=11

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

If you have to rely on tightened saw bolts to prevent handle movement, its not a good sign.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Nice detail work Stewie. On your last point, what is your remedy for handle movement when the screw bolts have been nipped up. I have a couple of old back saws awaiting renovation, both of which are loose.

David

 

[swagman]

Hi David. The spine needs to be tapped back so its making good contact with the back of the mortise.

Stewie;