Thoughts on making PAT 10 doors with big domino, 44mm thick?

[MrYorke]

What's your thoughts on making an internal door, PAT 10, using the big domino 700?

Softwood/hardwood.

Up to the job? They'll be glazed obviously.

NOT external

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well I've never done it, but my understanding is that this is exactly what the tool was designed for.
Many budget doors are dowelled, and this has to be stronger than a couple of dowels.

 

[blackrodd]

As the glass will be tempered it will be very heavy, Even with traditional through M&T, I'd use at least a 6" bottom rail and a double M&T each side and a 5" head and stiles, all glued and pegged, or wedged.
The glass rebates and moulding will take some of the "heavy" look away from the finished door.
Don't forget to glaze the doors when locked, stopped and closed, as they will stay set.
Glaze with the doors primed and u/coated, the glass on glazing packers and bedded in a good glazing mastic or sealant.
They will then be very robust against the odd wind slamming of doors.
From the door opening at the usual 90 degrees, keeping the bottom hinge out 2mm from plumb,will encourage the door to swing closed, keeping the bottom hinge in 2mm, from plumb, will keep it open,
Regards Rodders

http://www.glass-ts.com/glass-weight-calculator

 

[MrYorke]

As the glass will be tempered it will be very heavy, Even with traditional through M&T, I'd use at least a 6" bottom rail and a double M&T each side and a 5" head and stiles, all glued and pegged, or wedged.
The glass rebates and moulding will take some of the "heavy" look away from the finished door.
Don't forget to glaze the doors when locked, stopped and closed, as they will stay set.
Glaze with the doors primed and u/coated, the glass on glazing packers and bedded in a good glazing mastic or sealant.
They will then be very robust against the odd wind slamming of doors.
From the door opening at the usual 90 degrees, keeping the bottom hinge out 2mm from plumb,will encourage the door to swing closed, keeping the bottom hinge in 2mm, from plumb, will keep it open,
Regards Rodders

http://www.glass-ts.com/glass-weight-calculator

Thanks for the description......buuuuuuut, that doesn't really answer the question. But thanks anyway

 

[custard]

I wouldn't know a PAT 10 if it bit me in the leg. But I've got a 700 Domino and good as it is I think Blackrodd's right, there's a world of difference between a big loose tenon and a traditional heavyweight M&T with pegs or wedges to add mechanical strength to glue. After all, at some point, all glue bonds are absolutely guaranteed to fail.

 

[dzj]

Unless the doors have glued in panels, I wouldn't use loose tenon joinery for doors.
They're OK for cabinet sides or wainscoting...for stuff that doesn't move, but for doors I'd go the traditional route.
Perhaps you can use the Domino to fashion the mortise and make the tenon in the traditional manner.

 

[blackrodd]

As the glass will be tempered it will be very heavy, Even with traditional through M&T, I'd use at least a 6" bottom rail and a double M&T each side and a 5" head and stiles, all glued and pegged, or wedged.
The glass rebates and moulding will take some of the "heavy" look away from the finished door.
Don't forget to glaze the doors when locked, stopped and closed, as they will stay set.
Glaze with the doors primed and u/coated, the glass on glazing packers and bedded in a good glazing mastic or sealant.
They will then be very robust against the odd wind slamming of doors.
From the door opening at the usual 90 degrees, keeping the bottom hinge out 2mm from plumb,will encourage the door to swing closed, keeping the bottom hinge in 2mm, from plumb, will keep it open,
Regards Rodders

http://www.glass-ts.com/glass-weight-calculator

Thanks for the description......buuuuuuut, that doesn't really answer the question. But thanks anyway

OK,short answer NO, short pieces of glued wood will not make a strong enough joint.
For a reasoned answer please read the above!
Regards Rodders