David C
In Memorium
And other people may be interested in a wider spectrum of subjects.
The Stanley no 9 is frequently referred to as a piano makers plane.
David
The Stanley no 9 is frequently referred to as a piano makers plane.
David
Jacob":2hlkk5wg said:Why?MMUK":2hlkk5wg said:Oh for pineapple sake Jacob, give it up will you!
I'm interested in these things and want to know how useful they are. I'm also interested in how much can be done with only a few simple tools. It was an eye opener for me when I was taught how much can be done with a fairly basic tool collection.
CStanford":2fkbn3cl said:Even the most basic kit includes a knife, a square, and one or two hand planes. That's all that is really needed.
cagenuts":cl2tixio said:CStanford":cl2tixio said:Even the most basic kit includes a knife, a square, and one or two hand planes. That's all that is really needed.
Way overkill!
You just need an axe.
Cheshirechappie":38r3su5z said:For trimming end grain, a mitre trimmer (such as this - http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-mt1-mitre-trimmer ) would be another option. This one isn't as posh as those from Morso or Ortoguil, and is strictly speaking intended for trimming picture frame mitres, so will not have quite the length capacity of the shooting board and plane, but should do a pretty fair job.
There are more ways than one to skin a cat, and whilst doing it all with a limited kit may be an absolute necessity for some (or a conscious choice for others), most professionals and serious amateurs, now and in the past, prefer to have tools that make the job quicker or do the job to a better standard; or even just have a few tools that are a pleasure to own and use.
Corneel":3fold27e said:From old German texts, even way before all these English mitre planes, I understand that endgrain planes were used mostly for miters. And that is no wonder, the mitre is about the only joint which needs painstakingly accurate endgrain work. And there were loads of mitre joints, with all the mouldings running around corners, in period furniture. The rest of the joints have the endgrain hidden or it is planed after assembly like the dovetail joint. Fitting a drawer, while needing attention of course, is more forgiving then a mitre joint.
CStanford":355cm7d3 said:Good points all. And as CheshireChappie has pointed out the guillotine-style miter trimmer probably represents the highest form of non-electric tool for such tasks. This isn't a tool with a very high "drool factor" it would seem. No gloats. Robust. Totally self contained. No need to build anything to go with. Shearing cut is built-in. Drag it out, slice your workpieces, put it back on a shelf until next time. My wife worked in a frame shop when she was in college. They had four of them, she recalls.
I've had one on site once but found it too precise (architraves and other mouldings) in that a lot of stuff wasn't square to start with. So back to basics - mark and saw as close as you can, offer up several times, block plane, undercut, etc. No scope for a shooting board either.Billy Flitch":3ksh2jsr said:Long time ago now but worked in a shop fitters shop that had one of those miter guillotines a lot bigger than the one shown in the thread. JMHO but I found it too slow you had to creep up on the miter bit by bit.
David C":1utikqjv said:...7/8" stuff being a bit difficult to shoot with a conventional plane.
The only thing I have noticed since buying the L-N 51, is that I can now shoot those 7/8" drawer fronts, with ease, saving considerable time.
Pity it isn't a bit longercagenuts":i5p2nghf said:For the very thin stuff like veneers, there's always the option of the new Veritas Sanding Shooter.
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