The 78 Filletster Rebating Plane & Removing Machining Marks

[pollys13]

Earlier this morning I was reading Paul Sellers’ Blog Rebate Plane No1—The 78 Filletster Plane.
In the article he goes on to say, " As a bevel-down plane pattern type it is generally used by joiners and furniture makers for forming the occasional rebate and especially for cleaning up machine marks from spindle moulders before finish is applied. "

So when I make the rebated frame and sash sections for my windows on my spindle moulder.
Should I be using one of these 78 Filletster rebate planes to clean up any machining marks?

The Axminster Rider No. 778 duplex rebate plane is deigned to cut rebates up to 38mm(1-1/2") wide.
I'm not sure but the window frame rebates might need to be larger, so if that's the case I don't think this plane will do?
Thanks.

 

[G S Haydon]

If your rebates will contain the glass then don't do anything to them, off the machine should be fine. That is on the basis your machine holds it's set well enough. If it's a lightweight machine, take a couple of passes. To reduce the ripples, consider reducing your feed speed, makes it feel like it's takes longer but saves you time in clean up.

For exposed rebates in casement or door openings light passes with a number 10 Stanley, 010 Record would be fine. However, a sanding block with some abrasive should be enough unless your machine or tooling is not well suited to the task

A 78 is excellent at forming rebates and possibly rescuing a mistake, such as correcting a size or a rebate. However, it would not be a good plane for surface finishing. I bought a Faithfull Brand 078 and put a Ray Iles iron in it, it's proved to be very good. I don't normally retro-fit irons but the Faithfull iron seemed only scraper hardness. I did need to take a moment to make sure the escapement area was clean and smooth too. If I saw a good Record one second hand I'd go for it, however, at least the Faithfull had all the screws and could be returned if not thought to be suitable.

 

[D_W]

Given that you're in the UK, I would keep my eye out for a (wooden) fillister plane and a sash fillister. Sash fillisters seem to be dirt cheap, even over here in the states, because nobody makes window sash by hand any longer.

I don't know that you'll need them for this if a machine is doing the work for you, a skew rabbet plane of some width may be more practical. If it needs to be steepened to avoid tearout, you can put a small back bevel on the back of an iron.

I've had three different 78 type planes (two stanleys and a nicer heavier old sargent floral pattern plane with better lines), and they feel more like a construction plane than a cabinetmaking plane. The fact that the irons have been soft in all sort of reinforces this, that they're adequate for coarse softwood work, but not as good for hardwood work of volume and precision. If you use wooden fillister planes more down the road, you'll appreciate how much better they work in a long session than any metal plane. A fillister plane and a rabbet plane for final clean up.

What kind of wood will you be making these from?

 

[ED65]

I bought a Faithfull Brand 078 and put a Ray Iles iron in it, it's proved to be very good. I don't normally retro-fit irons but the Faithfull iron seemed only scraper hardness.

That's disappointing to hear as previously I'd have said they had a good track record for well-hardened irons. The one from my no. 4 even has the divot from hardness testing.

 

[G S Haydon]

I'd agree on normal bench plane irons, this might of been a duff. However, the Ray Iles iron is very good and fitted straight in. I would assume they cloned the current Irwin or old Record plane pretty closely.

 

[undergroundhunter]

I personally would choose a wooden plane over a metal one anyday. For what you are wanting I would get a skew rebate plane, they can be had for peanuts on ebay.

Matt

 

[ColeyS1]

I mean this in the nicest possible way, but you really just need to try using the spindle. You're wasting hours upon hours trying to prepare yourself for the day you actually use it. Just do a rebate in an offcut and see how it performs. I'd be exhausted trying to predict every possible tool I might need in my woodworking career- start with what you've got (a bloody good spindle moulder setup) and add to it as and when.
You can mentally make it till the cows come home, but until you start making shavings, it's a pointless exercise !!!!!

I want to see a picture of a rebate you've made on the spindle moulder please [WINKING FACE]


Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[pollys13]

What kind of wood will you be making these from?
Utile.

 

[pollys13]

I want to see a picture of a rebate you've made on the spindle moulder please [WINKING FACE]
Hi Coley very close to using the spindle and will post a pic, oh I got the Ashley Isles butt chisel, 1-1/2" using the butt chisel after what you said made sense, I was thinking of getting a small Narex brass mallet like yours too. Bought the chisel, thought it would make life easier when I start practicing on your window designs.