Tenon Making Jig

[Templatetom]

As a matter of interest I am in the process of desiging a Jig to make a variety of Tenons: Single, Double, off-set, presented in a number of size tenons

 

[bosshogg]

A photo of the jig it's self would be nice. Also you mention doing various wood shows, were you a sales rep? and what went so horribly wrong for such a vow of abstinence??...bosshogg

Few people are capable of expressing with equanimity opinions which differ from the prejudices of their social environment. Most people are even incapable of forming such opinions. A. E. 8)

 

[Templatetom]

A photo of the jig it's self would be nice. Also you mention doing various wood shows, were you a sales rep? and what went so horribly wrong for such a vow of abstinence??...bosshogg

Few people are capable of expressing with equanimity opinions which differ from the prejudices of their social environment. Most people are even incapable of forming such opinions. A. E. 8)

No not a sales rep. A retired Teacher/Cabinetmaker with a love of the router still inventing new ideas I will submit the photo of the Jig soon

 

[Benchwayze]

Welcome aboard.

Strange you should be reverting to true M&ts just when I am becoming fond of the slip-tenon... (Only because I can't justify the purchase of a Domino; not even the old one... )
Secretly I am hoping the new one will be a roaring success, so I might be able to land a decent second-hand original model.) :mrgreen:

John

 

[9fingers]

I use this for all my tenons
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-34-183-DELT ... B00004TD3O
Numerous clones available in UK
Just add FTG tooth saw blade in the table saw and away you go.
Easy to set up and use, safe as both hands are behind the jig.
Repeatable and accurate.

Bob

 

[barkwindjammer]

I will submit the photo of the Jig soon

Look forward to seeing this Tom

 

[RogerS]

I use this for all my tenons
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-34-183-DELT ... B00004TD3O
Numerous clones available in UK
Just add FTG tooth saw blade in the table saw and away you go.
Easy to set up and use, safe as both hands are behind the jig.
Repeatable and accurate.

Bob

The idea appeals but ....

How do you guard it, Bob?

And I'm curious how you stop long pieces of stock from waving all over the place ?

 

[9fingers]

Roger,

The jig itself is designed with handles placed such that no further guarding is really necessary. Both hands are to the left of the blade and so the body naturally is also out of line with the blade.

I've not had any problem with 'stock waving about'. The clamp is pretty positive. Obviously the distance from the table to the ceiling is a limiting factor but not one that has affected me yet.

This photo is from an earlier project. The F clamp is holding a sacrificial piece to reduce breakout. The main jig clamp seen on the left hold the workpiece.

Bob

 

[Steve Maskery]

The tablesaw does cut very nice, clean tenons, but I do think that using such an unguarded jig is asking for trouble. No-one who ever cut off their fingers on a TS thought it was going to happen to them.
That's why the Ultimate Tablesaw Tenon Jig has a guarding system built in!
S

 

[Sawyer]

.

 

[Sawyer]

Roger,

The jig itself is designed with handles placed such that no further guarding is really necessary. Both hands are to the left of the blade and so the body naturally is also out of line with the blade.

I've not had any problem with 'stock waving about'. The clamp is pretty positive. Obviously the distance from the table to the ceiling is a limiting factor but not one that has affected me yet.

This photo is from an earlier project. The F clamp is holding a sacrificial piece to reduce breakout. The main jig clamp seen on the left hold the workpiece.

Bob

Hmm, no guard, no riving knife. Looks a bit dangerous to me. One lapse of concentration and you, or something else could be on top of that blade; which doesn't bear thinking about.

With ingenuity, you could probably fabricate a suitable guard, but if not, this arrangement would fall foul of UK safety regulations.

I've got a good way of cutting tenons on the spindle moulder, using a pair of slotting saws separated with spacers, a sliding carriage and a self-fabricated guard. It will only cut tenons up to 1.1/4" long unfortunately, but makes a lovely job of them and is very well-guarded. A fraction of the price of buying a specially made tenoning head and guard.

Takes a while to set up though. Unless I've got quite a lot to do, I normally cut tenons on the bandsaw or by hand.

 

[9fingers]

Everyone to their own when it comes to riving knives and guards.
This is my method and the one I prefer. UK safety regs do not apply in my workshop and large lump of cast iron is between me and the blade. The photo is taken from the outfeed side, not from where I'm operating.

NB despite my user name, I do have 10 fingers

Bob

 

[RogerS]

.....
NB despite my user name, I do have 10 fingers

Bob

LOL :lol:

What's the largest chunk of timber that you've tenoned, Bob? I can't quite get my head around a large chunky oak door stile held vertically and being moved without flapping about and spoiling the cut.

 

[9fingers]

About a metre Roger. For longer work I tend to cut them with a dado head. This will no doubt inflame the guard enthusiasts though. If you can design such that the shoulders are the same depth on all four faces it is really quick. However with my digital readout on blade height - a recent mod to my table saw, changing depth of cut is quick and accurate.
I fully accept this method will not suit all readers!

Bob

 

[9fingers]

A further thought. You could add a false base to the tenon jig as bit as you like with a cut out in the business area which would add further lateral stability for long workpieces.

Bob

 

[Templatetom]

A photo of the jig it's self would be nice. Also you mention doing various wood shows, were you a sales rep? and what went so horribly wrong for such a vow of abstinence??...bosshogg

Few people are capable of expressing with equanimity opinions which differ from the prejudices of their social environment. Most people are even incapable of forming such opinions. A. E. 8)

As we all know when we find a method of producing an article in the non convential way; we continue to upgrade it until we are satisfied it will work. I took the Super Jig to our local woodshow here in Western Australia in September this year and even this week I was adding better fixtures to improve the working of the jig. The enclosed drawing is what I produced It contains the Jig with 2 fixtures placed at each end to act as a guide when positioning the template part of the jig. Also included is fixture insert to control the path of the Guide in use when routing one of the joints. Other fixture inserts are required for the other joints that may be required.
http://youtu.be/V9JV4qddMNA
This video shows the super Jig in action to cut three tenons quicker and much safer

I have a lot of writing to do to put together the details of producing the jig and the number of joints I have produced so far

 

[Benchwayze]

In days of yore, If I wanted to machine tenons, I used the table-saw on my Coronet Major. The jig I used was made to fit over the fence, and it slid along the fence in operation,. The choice of blades was the normal blade or a wobble-saw, but that meant turning the workpiece so the cheek being machined was always outwards. (I was never very good at turning the other cheek! :twisted: ). That also required an unguarded blade with no riving knife, but it was all a bit of a pain really. Even then I could cut most smaller tenons by hand in the time it took me to set up.

But then I bought a bandsaw, and for machine cutting that is now my preferred method. It's the safest way I know. The blade is always completely guarded or buried in the stock and the worst that could happen is for me to forget to put a stop block beyond the blade and saw straight through with my fingers in line with the blade. So far so good.

I do use a hand-held router with an upcut spiral bit for morticing, but that's when I need to mortice into end grain too, when making a slip tenon. A method I have used since the Domino made such an impression on us.

John

 

[woodbloke]

But then I bought a bandsaw, and for machine cutting that is now my preferred method. It's the safest way I know. The blade is always completely guarded or buried in the stock and the worst that could happen is for me to forget to put a stop block beyond the blade and saw straight through with my fingers in line with the blade. So far so good.

I do use a hand-held router with an upcut spiral bit for morticing, but that's when I need to mortice into end grain too, when making a slip tenon. A method I have used since the Domino made such an impression on us.

John

Same here for sawing tenons, correctly set up a band saw is almost fool proof. Mortises I do with a router as well but now I have the Domino :-" (Mk1 version)...who knows? - Rob

 

[Harbo]

Tenons on my Bandsaw, mortises on my Woodrat.
I often round the tenons with a Japanese saw rasp instead of squaring up the corners.
BS works a treat especially when working with long sections of timber as the timber is held horizontally.

Rod

 

[Benchwayze]

But then I bought a bandsaw, and for machine cutting that is now my preferred method. It's the safest way I know. The blade is always completely guarded or buried in the stock and the worst that could happen is for me to forget to put a stop block beyond the blade and saw straight through with my fingers in line with the blade. So far so good.

I do use a hand-held router with an upcut spiral bit for morticing, but that's when I need to mortice into end grain too, when making a slip tenon. A method I have used since the Domino made such an impression on us.

John

Same here for sawing tenons, correctly set up a band saw is almost fool proof. Mortises I do with a router as well but now I have the Domino :-" (Mk1 version)...who knows? - Rob

Do I sniff a 'Mini-gloat' Rob?
Just envious is all! :mrgreen: I am waiting to see if the orignial will be reduced in price if the new model catches on. :roll:

John