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You've already drilled the holes? Ideally, for an M10 coarse thread you'd want an 8.5mm hole and for a 12mm coase thread a 10.25mm hole (Although a 10mm hole will probably work in wood). You'll need to up the sizes to M12 for the 9.5mm hole and M14 for the 11.5mm hole if you've already drilled them.

Ebony will be fine with threads, Ash may need a bit of assistance to keep the threads from crumbling like dousing the part in thin superglue.
 
You've already drilled the holes? Ideally, for an M10 coarse thread you'd want an 8.5mm hole and for a 12mm coase thread a 10.25mm hole (Although a 10mm hole will probably work in wood). You'll need to up the sizes to M12 for the 9.5mm hole and M14 for the 11.5mm hole if you've already drilled them.

Ebony will be fine with threads, Ash may need a bit of assistance to keep the threads from crumbling like dousing the part in thin superglue.
Thx for reply, I haven't drilled any holes yet, just trial holes for the metal joints I have, the sizes I mentioned were just less than the joints I will use, hope that is understandable, I will measure the exact sizes 2moro at workshop. New to this sort of thing.( i make 1piece snooker cues, and am experimenting with jointed cues).
 
I've tapped threaded rod into end grain for bolt on ukulele necks. The end grain definitely needs to be soaked in CA glue - first before I tap, then after, using the tap again to recut the thread.

But ...

This s for bolts which will be removed maybe twice in the lifetime of the instrument. The threads are too fragile for regular removal.

Look for threaded inserts. From memory, the M5 insert goes into some thing like a 10mm hole.

I'd use a threaded insert either side I think, the longest you can get.
 
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