Tablesaw Choice - Perspective required.

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ByronBlack

Established Member
Joined
4 Sep 2005
Messages
4,117
Reaction score
1
Location
Thurrock, Essex
Hi all,

Please don't hate me because i'm an indecisive fool! I have spent the last few months mulling over the TS purchase. I have the cash and will just not the choice. I require some rational thought to help me decide which will be suitable for me. I don't want to do a Devonwoody and try every saw under the sun only to be disapointed, i'm hoping to learn from some of his experiences - maybe DW you can help with some of my choices, I can't remember which saws you've tested out or which one you preferred?

Ok, so, I have upto £700 to spend maximum, thats actually pushing past my budget but that is the top end without question that I can spend.

I only want to buy once for the next 10 years.

I'm aiming mostly for accurate cross-cutting for mitred frames and good 90 degree stock. I would like to cut the odd large panel for workshop cabinets, outfeed table etc, but not sure how wide is actually required on a day to day basis.

I do have a bandsaw for cutting thick stock, but I'll mostly be using 1" to 2" timber, is it really required to cut 3" stock? Other than the beech for the worbench project I can't think off hand what I would make with stuff that thick?

It has to run on an 13amp circuit, or 16amp but not to juicy so it won't run an extractor (1000watt) at the same time. I have a 20amp supply for the workshop.

On to the contenders with relevant questions..

1. Sheppach TS2010. Price £669. Comes with sliding table, stand and extension with free delivery, most expensive of the options. Also the lightest - could this be a problem? No cast iron, but atleast it won't rust. Are these accurate?

2. Record Power TSPP250. Price £649 + Del. Big and heavy, 1m rip capacity, 80mm cut, no sliding table as standard, but does have the radial ability for crosscutting - how good is that feature? Better than a sliding table?

3. Record Power TS200C (new one). Price £559. Comes with sliding table and extension, plus stand and wheel kit. Same motor as the bigger TSPP250, but more compact machine, 600mm max rip capacity, seems to be a good choice with the built in small sliding table.

4. SIP 10" CI. Price £459. Big heavy and made of Iron. Not sure my wiring is up to it with an extractor and workshop lights all running, Slimjim has found the riving knife to be fiddly, no sliding table as standard and aftermarket one to large, poor dust extraction, but weighty and powerful.

5. Axminster TS200. Price £278. Kity 419 clone - complete mystery machine, seems too good for the price, £110 cheaper than the rest of the clones, how can that be? Seems good spec for the money, CI top and extension, sliding table, decent weight, stand but smallest motor fo the lot at just 1100watt - will this be man enough for 2" stock, and can it be any good at that price?

I'm leaning towards the new small sliding carriage Record as it seems to fit most of my needs, comes in on budget, but is brand new and not many people have used this yet..

I would like the SIP, but the power issue and riving knife are putting me off.

The scheppach also seems good, but the lightness worries me, however it does seem to have an excellent pedigree with fine adjusters on both the sliding fence and the rip fence - is is possible to make this more weighty (with some sandbags or something) when cutting heavy timbers, or does it do just fine without?

I know some of these questions have been asked already, but i'm looking for a good perspective on the general choice and maybe some feedback on the various machines. I've read all I can read on the past forum messages and it's muddied the water so much I just have no idea which way to turn.

TIA
 
The SIP BB. The riving knife can be a right sod! But once set it should not need frequent adjustment. Better than a fixed one that's out of alignment I assure you.
Electrics. With a 10in blade the spin up time will take out a 13 amp cartridge fuse, as will frequent starts.
Wire direct to a cooker type electrical outlet and fit your consumer unit with a 'slow blow' MCB, a type C if I recall correctly. 2.5 mm cable will suffice unless you are a long way from the consumer unit.
Check every damn nut and bolt on the beastie and it will serve well.
I've had mine for a year and I'm not looking for a replacement.
 
There's nothing fiddly about the riving knife on my SIP BB !

I did take the time to elongate the slot that holds it in place so that now the top of the knife is slightly below the top of the blade, and this allows it all to be wound below the table surface when you have taken the guard off, so you can then use the table top for assembly or whatever without the blade being in the way.

Sort out an Osborne or Incra or similar mitre gauge and it will do everything you need without drama or problems in my experience.

Mine also works fine from the 13amp sockets and has never tripped the circuit breaker nor blown the plug fuse.

It's a lovely quiet, smooth, solid machine and the fence is great.

I'm sure the others may be good also, but there are no particular reasons to not like the SIP in my experience !

Cheers, Paul. :D
 
That's odd Paul. My riving knife was already slotted sufficiently to drop everything flush. Removing or replacing the knife is a doddle, but mine came loose, and resetting took me about half an hour. Mine regularly took out 13amp cartridge fuses till I rewired to avoid the fuse.
 
Digit, Paul, thanks for the information. With the mod you made to the riving knife (something I would like to do also) does this still allow the crown guard to be fitted during normal operations, and removed when tenoning/grooving etc?

Also, the power thing - I'm not worried about actually running the saw, I'm quite confident I can in my setup even if I have to add a 16amp socket, it's more the cumulative drain when running the saw, an extractor and my lights at the same time on a 20amp circuit that is concerning. I guess if I could sort that out the SIP would be a clear winner..

Although thinking about it, I do run my p/t easily enough and have sometimes had my shop vac running, I'll have to check out what motor is in that.
 
If my Fox / Record Tspp250 is anything to go by the radial pull action is a waste of time, the blade wobbles slighty on its runners ruining any chance of a straight line + making a zero clearance insert is difficult because the insert runs the full lenght of the saw
Phil
 
Byron

Been there done that but did not get the tee-shirt. It is a big decision to make and in the end, only you really know what you will use it for.

My decision as previously stated was the SIP cast iron jobby.

Regrets NONE.
Mine runs happily off a 13amp plug ( if the drive belts are too tight it might blow the fuse on start up) but mine is fine.
Runs very quietly no screaming motor to annoy the neighbors.
Fence rock solid and square out of the box, easy to adjust and no requirement for an after purchase one.
Riving knife takes about two minutes to remove and replacement is the same, as adjusters are not touched during removal. I only remove mine for shoulder cuts and when using the tenon jig.
I still have mine mounted on a frame with wheels, in case I need to move it But after about 18 months in the same position I do not think I will bother now.

Moans
The extract is not the bees knees but what saw does have perfect extraction. Sawdust does not fly all over you but tends to fall into the base. I only have the record rsd1 but it is pretty good.
The mitre gauge is the usual after thought but I am awaiting delivery from Osborne of an EB3 ( which is currently on offer $109 + $53 delivery by USPS ).

All in all very satisfied but the decision is unfortunately yours.

Good luck and do not have too many sleepless nights.

Les
 
Your 20 amp circuit puzzles me BB. Are you referring to cable size or MCB rating?
 
BB - I have the genuine article as far as a K419 goes and it's a good machine, I would have thought that the Axminster clone is as good if not better as it has cast iron tables...mine doesn't :( Motor power is fine for ripping 50mm stock provided a decent blade is used (as with most things) the original Kity blade was a rip tooth format so it's definitely worth thinking about a better blade...same may well be true for all the other machines. By far the worst thing tho' was the extractions on it, it was absolutely diabolical but I've very recently done a mod to it which has improved it 150% :D (thread on the General forum somewhere) so you may well find that the clone will also be just as bad. I'll be looking to upgrade in a few years and my current favourite is the Jet Supersaw at about a grand which puts it into the next bracket up...had a fantastic review recently in F&C - Rob
 
I too have the SIP and have had no problems at all with it. I use the Osborne and get nice accurate mitre cuts as well. It too was favourably reviewed in F & C a year or so ago.
No regrets.
 
Byron, As you know I have the next model up from the SIP you mentioned (12") and in my honest opinion they are very good value for money. I do not have any problems with my riving knife, and the dust extraction is ok if you have a powerful extractor connected. Saying that I would replace the pipe that they supply for the blade guard as it is a load of rubbish.

I was going to tell you to steer clear of the Records, because they are normally a load of rubbish too, but then I took a look at the TSPP250, and I have to say it looks a hell of a lot of saw for the money. With that sort of sliding table I would class it more like a panel saw, which would be excellent, and a bonus would be that it handles big panels a lot easier

I found you this review which a member did a few years ago, and as it happens he compared it to his old Scheppach TS2000 the forerunner of the TS2010

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... ht=tspp250

Good luck

Mike
 
Byron,

I'm not sure if it's on your list but the 10" Fox is well worth considering. I have one and it's well built, powerful and has plenty of cast iron.

The sliding table is a real bonus and once setup properly cuts accurately and I wouldn't want to be without it now. It does take up a lot of space but with a very simple mod to the table support, the sliding carriage folds out of the way and saves a lot of space.

Mine runs without any problem at all on a 13A socket so I haven't bothered to put a 16A supply in.

I too am very puzzled by your 20A supply though. What cable do you have to your worskhop?

Mike
 
ByronBlack":wi4zji61 said:
Hi all,




On to the contenders with relevant questions..



2. Record Power TSPP250. Price £649 + Del. Big and heavy, 1m rip capacity, 80mm cut, no sliding table as standard, but does have the radial ability for crosscutting - how good is that feature? Better than a sliding table?
TIA

Byron, imho don't even go there on this one :( .
 
Not as much help as the other on here Byron but I went for the SIP 12" after reading all the comments about it on the forum. I can't yet tell you how it performs as I haven't got it in my workshop yet. On the splurge I read on the SIP's it did state that the 10" version would run on a 13 amp outlet but the 12" needed a 16 amp supply. Hope this helps. :wink:
 
chisel":1yb4hvov said:
I did take the time to elongate the slot that holds it in place so that now the top of the knife is slightly below the top of the blade, and this allows it all to be wound below the table surface when you have taken the guard off, so you can then use the table top for assembly or whatever without the blade being in the way.

My riving knife can be wound below the table surface without any modifications.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top