table saw needed

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petercaldwell

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Birkenhead
Hi all. I'm looking to buy a table saw,just wondering what everyones recommendations would be. My requirements would be
Cast iron top
Sliding carriage
Adjustable blade height
Good depth of cut, hopefully 75mm or more at 90 degrees

Any advice?
 
I have been using the SIP 01332 for quite a few years and have been very pleased with it . Sliding carriage works well , with the extension table and sliding carriage it takes a bit of space . I will probably put it on the market later in the new year and posting some pictures of it . Also there are the Axminster products that are of good quality.
 
Most modern cabinet saws lack rigidity and have been value engineered down to a price. A compromise is struck between performance and cost. The heavier the saw in general the better the quality of the cut. Mass damps down vibration which results in a better quality of cut. However, heavy saws are difficult to move around in a small shop. So lightweight is often seen as an advantage. A paradox! To reduce weight the trunions are often scaled back. Instead of big beefy castings they can be pressed steel or very light weight. Equally the thickness of the cast iron top can be scaled back, often with the result that unless flawlessly stress relieved before machining will move and bend.
The accuracy of the main fence is paramount. All too often modern saws have very light weight fences that don’t lock properly / hold their longitudinal accuracy compared to the blade.
Under powered motors, smaller motors are lighter.

New:
For the money I don’t think you can beat a Sedgwick TA315. Good saw, very capable, made to last and be very accurate. The only thing I don’t like about them is that they are not easy to service.......which you would need to do extremely rarely.

Secondhand
Sedgwick TA315, LK
Wadkin BGS12
Startrite DS275.

A few photos help to show the build quality of these saws. Sorry I can’t find any any of the TA315......if I find them I will add them.

trunnions of a Startrite 275

this is the lightest trunnion assembly. However, all cast iron, and very stiff. The rise and fall / angle are on standard screws rather than either Acme thread or better still worm drive. The single trunion can be adjusted for any wear.
AE089611-ABD4-4969-A147-BF73A6E422BC.jpeg

Startrite DS275
2ED12D3E-F18C-47AE-ADAA-7A4FE756126F.jpeg

Wadkin Trunnion
all cast iron construction. Worm drives in rise and fall and angle adjustment. Double trunnions, no adjustment, but I’ve yet to find one worn to cause problems. The rise and fall has a grib that can be adjusted to reduced any lateral play due to wear.
A425DC6B-4F15-44FD-8A29-BBCCF2CD5D07.jpeg
B32FD325-AA5C-44BC-9743-313FECEAFCEF.jpeg

Wadkin BGS
DB209788-A74E-40D0-A0E5-E4B98C78EB8E.jpeg

all cast iron sliding table Assembly.
9FA3EBCD-551F-4846-B5EC-7F750EEFA1DF.jpeg

391E6F3F-2C62-4340-B284-5F2A02D70A5F.jpeg


6065EA4F-918A-4C65-BCBE-C69B199DBE64.png

Sedgwick LK Trunion
this is the second generation LK, the first is slightly different, but no less robust. Very heavily built, big bearings, easy adjustment of the belts. It’s all pinned for accuracy. height adjustment on a standard screw thread.
459505D0-BBDA-4E98-BE0F-1EBD11EF53E6.jpeg

sedgwick LK
7EE3B638-5753-4A8A-822B-9879AF0B298B.jpeg
 
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All depends on your budget and the amount of space in your workshop you could go for the budget end with a Charnwood or as mentioned above the industrial Sedgwick.
 
I’ve attached a couple of photos of the Sedgwick TA315 trunnions. The images are from a friend. It’s in it’s as bought condition. Virtually all cast iron, heavy thickness. Built to last generations. Thinnest sections are 8mm, most are at more.

The only downside, as I’ve said, is that to work on the mechanism you have to remove the top which is extremely heavy and not easy to get off.

1609161772374.jpeg

1609161810979.jpeg
 
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Deema could you recommend a small footprint cast iron table saw by any chance esp s/h preferably British origin??

Cheers James
 
Hi James, there is only one remaining manufacturer of table saws here in the UK, which is Sedgwick. It’s a good saw, one that holds is value extremely well and when you come to sell it will probably sell for a lot more than you paid for it, whether bought new (after say 10 years use) or secondhand.
Secondhand for me the smallest footprint saw are the old Startrites, great saws, much favoured by architecture model makers. Excellent fence, better IMO than the older Wadkins. Extremely compact and with the extension bars capable of doing almost anything. I had one for many years, (DS275) and used it to RIP 8” seasoned oak (cut turn over and cut again) making doors and windows. Its the only saw I’m aware of where the blade cants away from the fence rather that towards it. This makes it ideal if making windows for cutting the scribed tenons to the widow cill (9 degree). Slightly larger, heavier built is the Wadkin AGS10 a classic saw. Good examples are highly sought after. With all these saws they are IMO a form of savings scheme. You shouldn't loose any money and they appreciate in value.
The best small table saw I’ve had is a Sedgwick LK. No tilt on the blade, however in reality it’s been very very seldom I’ve ever needed to tilt the blade and when I did a quick simple sledge was all that was needed if tilting the fence wasn’t an option. Massively capable saw, rock solid fence, the best of all of them if you don’t need it for sheet material (Make sure you get the micro adjust which is often lost) As it’s all cast iron.

Ive played with a few modern small none commercial grade table saws and have not found one I would personally recommend or wish to own. The mechanisms have been value engineered to the point where it’s very difficult to adjust them to run true, and when I have they didn’t stay true for very long. Equally they lose money and depreciate very quickly.

I have heard that the Laguna saw is nicely built, but so far I haven’t had chance to take one apart to find out......one day!

I’m a bit old school, for me the one thing that seems to be a constant concern for people is dust extraction, which I think is a bit of a marketing guff. Clearly though anything that reduces dust is a good thing. However, I haven’t yet found a saw that has ‘good dust extraction’. A properly hight set blade pushed by a motor that is capable of making the cut on anything serious in my experience gives the person feeding the stuff a sawdust shower. That’s on any saw with big extraction both under and over the table. I’d welcome any recommendations in saws that are ‘dust free’. My own saw, a SCM when cutting say 5” thick makes the guy feeding it look like a snowman when used in anger. The saw dust is literally fired out horizontally!!
 
I have a Record power TS200c I got off ebay for £300 in 2016.

I wouldn't say its bad but it dose have it down sides, It dose everything I need.

Handles hardwood ripping a crosscutting well, the right blade selection really helps.
Maintains accuracy well, when you finally get it there.
Is compact for its functionality, built a drawer base on wheels to make life easier
ts3.jpg

(sorry for the mess)

Its been reliable until last week when one of the circlips that holds the rise and fall lead screw sheered off, that whole thing needed to be stripped down to remove the lead screw, drill and tap a hole to fix waters to do the job of the circlip. Whilst at it replacing the arbour bearing that were noisy but functional.
Realignment of the table to the blade and sliding carriage is a pig.
The supplied sliding carriage fence was not so good so a DIY version was made that resolves the issues.
ts4.jpg

ts5.jpg


Dust extraction could be better but could also be worse.

ts2.jpg
ts1.jpg

not had the cast iron top off it for 2 years, some nice saw dust archaeology to be had.

For what it costs I can't complain, I think anything of the same standard/price range will have similar idiosyncrasies.

That all being said Im also looking at a new Axminster panel saw 🤦‍♂️.
 
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