Table saw blade for MDF

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Thedog

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Hello,

I have the need to cut up a fairly large amount of MDF sheets (3mm to 18mm).
My table saw came with an Axminister blade fitted, which has now seen better days. It certainly seems to have become blunt since cutting MDF.

Can anyone recommend a good quality but not silly money blade for cutting MDF. What is the best no of teeth and blade tip style for MDF. I would prefer a blade with a kerf of no more than 2.8mm
My saw takes a 254mm blade with a 30mm bore.

I know it's easy to get reviews etc online but wanted to hear first-hand from anyone who can or not recommend a particular blade.

Thanks

Paul
 
You can go two ways:

1. Freud - available pretty much everywhere and decent quality. Around £25-£30 I suspect. I have used this and was pretty happy with it

2. Saxton / Wealden options, similar money, don't know the quality

3. Good quality blades which are a bit more money but can be resharpened time and time again, come in variety of kerf options as well. For the life of me I can't remember the name of the make that was suggested to me years ago.

Good luck.
 
Hi bp122,

Thanks for your reply. I did think about Freud, as they are a good price and like you say, everyone seems to sell them#
Is there a particular model you would recommend? No of teeth and type of tooth etc?
Seems like around 60 TPI has been suggested but maybe even up to 80??
I thought Freud made a MDF blade, but I couldn't find any reference to it.

Thnaks
 
I had a generic 48 tooth one for general use and a 24t one for ripping. But mine was a 216mm dia saw. For MDF, it may not matter as much, so I'd go with 48t or nearby equivalent.

80t could be for cross cutting, but if you are ripping MDF, although finish might be good, there may be localised burning if your feed rate is inconsistent.
 
I put a freud blade on my table saw after changing from the supplied dewalt blade. 2 pack was about £40 . Freud is quieter, cleaner cut and faster through the wood.
 
cant recomend a blade manufacturer......
BUT
only use one blade for MDF and man made products, then change when going back to real wood...
I use three blades on my 305mm sliding chop saw and yable saw .....
man made materials, hardwoods and qual cuts and then one for the general jobs.....
man made material do blunt blade really quickly....I found out the hard way...
I make sure the a job with mixed materials is well organised to save time swopping blades...
 
I can't see the point in having lots of teeth. MDF has hardish faces but no grain structure whatsoever so it isn't going to splinter at the cut edge like ply might. I'd be quite prepared to use a 24T rip blade, and feel that you're being over-precious thinking of 80T! Unless it's veneered board?
 
Thanks for all your replies.
The blade that came with the saw was an Axminster blade, I think it was a 24-tooth blade.
This has been the only blade I have used so far, with the intention of buying decent blades as and when I need them.
But just in the last few weeks cutting MDF has gone from giving a really smooth, good quality clean cut to now leaving curved blade marks on the MDF.
I can tell the blade is now really blunt as I now need to push it harder to cut. When I started cutting MDF its just glided through.

I was expecting this to happen, but now the time has come to buy the best blade I can for MDF and like you have said, have dedicated blade for MDF and other blades for other real wood jobs.

The main reason for asking, was to see if anyone could recommend a particular brand and model first hand. Which you have so thanks.
I just didn't want to spend 40 quid or so on a blade only to find it's gone blunt a week later because it was the wrong type of blade for MDF.

Both the links (CMT and Sheffield Saws) you suggested look Really good, so I will give them a call to see what they recommend,

Thanks
 
I just didn't want to spend 40 quid or so on a blade only to find it's gone blunt a week later because it was the wrong type of blade for MDF.
That is why I suggested Sheffield saws as they will be able to provide you with the information you need, they are the only blade manufacturer left inthe UK.
 
@Thedog having ‘played’ with a number of saw manufacturers blades, it seems to me, that there are poor, good blades and excellent blades, but these are never cheap blades.
MDF is very abrasive and will dull a poor blade very quickly.
I have compared say Freud blades with say CMT (industrial range), Omas, Swedex and well, the difference is stark. In fact the last Freud blade I bought , which is typical of their blades, I through in the recycling bin. After an incredibly short time it was blunt. Where as, one of the of the other brands I mentioned will literally cut thousands of linear feet. Why is this important? Well, for most who don’t use their circular saws ever day, the deterioration of the sharpness of a blade Is often difficult to judge, and the temptation is to just keep going as long as saw dust is being produced. A dull blade is one of the main causes of serious injury.

A high quality blade will not only stay sharp longer (higher quality carbide) but will also be suitable for multiple resharpening……more carbide on each tooth. Equally they are usually significantly quieter in operation. This is I believe due to the plates being flat so that the teeth cut in one line, ie doing less work……as well as the noise reduction bits the add to the blades. So, a Swedex blade on my saw (SCM Si15) produces a cut that is almost indiscernible from the finish produced by my PT (Sedgwick CP). You have to look really hard to see which is sawn and which is planed. Again, a descent secondhand Swedex blade still holders value, where as the cheaper ones are just throw away. So, in summary, a larger outlay initially but I truly believe a safer, quieter and long term more cost effect solution.

A great reference is the Swedex catalogue, the first few pages where it goes through circular saw features and what you need to look for.

http://www.swedex.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/POR40827_v1_Swedex-katalog-GB_optimerad1.pdf
The other major factor affecting blades is how they are sharpened. The difference between a properly sharpened blade and not is night and day. I tried a fair few circular saw sharpening services only to find them extremely lacking. I finally came across one that is superb. I recommend him to everyone we sell a machine to. He’s a superb shop, and knows his stuff having invested in the latest machines. His web site is a little crude. He also sells saw blades. Take a look at the video of how he sharpens circular saw blades, bottom of the page.

https://priestnersaws.co.uk/
One thing I hear of which is IMO ridiculous is people attempting to sharpen their own circular saw blades without the knowledge of how it should be done. An accident waiting to happen!
 
Last edited:
@Thedog having ‘played’ with a number of saw manufacturers blades, it seems to me, that there are poor, good blades and excellent blades, but these are never cheap blades.
MDF is very abrasive and will dull a poor blade very quickly.
I have compared say Freud blades with say CMT (industrial range), Omas, Swedex and well, the difference is stark. In fact the last Freud blade I bought , which is typical of their blades, I through in the recycling bin. After an incredibly short time it was blunt. Where as, one of the of the other brands I mentioned will literally cut thousands of linear feet. Why is this important? Well, for most who don’t use their circular saws ever day, the deterioration of the sharpness of a blade Is often difficult to judge, and the temptation is to just keep going as long as saw dust is being produced. A dull blade is one of the main causes of serious injury.

A high quality blade will not only stay sharp longer (higher quality carbide) but will also be suitable for multiple resharpening……more carbide on each tooth. Equally they are usually significantly quieter in operation. This is I believe due to the plates being flat so that the teeth cut in one line, ie doing less work……as well as the noise reduction bits the add to the blades. So, a Swedex blade on my saw (SCM Si15) produces a cut that is almost indiscernible from the finish produced by my PT (Sedgwick CP). You have to look really hard to see which is sawn and which is planed. Again, a descent secondhand Swedex blade still holders value, where as the cheaper ones are just throw away. So, in summary, a larger outlay initially but I truly believe a safer, quieter and long term more cost effect solution.

A great reference is the Swedex catalogue, the first few pages where it goes through circular saw features and what you need to look for.

http://www.swedex.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/POR40827_v1_Swedex-katalog-GB_optimerad1.pdf
The other major factor affecting blades is how they are sharpened. The difference between a properly sharpened blade and not is night and day. I tried a fair few circular saw sharpening services only to find them extremely lacking. I finally came across one that is superb. I recommend him to everyone we sell a machine to. He’s a superb shop, and knows his stuff having invested in the latest machines. His web site is a little crude. He also sells saw blades. Take a look at the video of how he sharpens circular saw blades, bottom of the page.

https://priestnersaws.co.uk/
One thing I hear of which is IMO ridiculous is people attempting to sharpen their own circular saw blades without the knowledge of how it should be done. An accident waiting to happen!
Can you give an idea of cost to sharpen a circular saw blade by Priestnersaws (Ball park)?
 
If it helps any I just had a 160mm, ATB48 tooth track saw blade sharpened and it was $17.83Cad plus tax. That would be £11.66 plus tax. A bigger blade would be about the same if the tooth count and shape is the same.

Pete
 
I just didn't want to spend 40 quid or so on a blade only to find it's gone blunt a week later
If your reliant on a blade to give a flawless finish, with high usage, you'll need to spend more, probably a lot more, its a false economy otherwise, I use Swedex in my saws, (I keep quite a range of options) and sharpening is usually less than £10.00, I recently bought a Frued blade in a hurry for a job, its gone in the never to be seen again draw...
 
Can you give an idea of cost to sharpen a circular saw blade by Priestnersaws (Ball park)?
Around £10 depending on tooth profile and tooth count. Like most places he will replace broken carbide teeth I’d required for a small charge.
 
Hi,
Loads of info and interesting comments. Very helpful Thanks.

I am in this for the long term so don't mind spending much more on the right blade.
The Swedex blades, Sheffield saws, and CMT all seem pretty high-end solution amongst others.

I have never had a blade re-sharpened, so that's worth looking into.

Cheers
 
I use Freud blades & when they need sharpening I take them to a local guy : Spurside Saw Works , Ross-on-Wye.
Tewkesbury Saws do a sharpening service also.
 

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