Swivelling Head

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dp341

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So, all you experts (who have a lathe where the head turns for faceplate work), is it a bit of a gimmick or is it really helpful?

I tend to find I end up in awkward positions from time to time when doing the inside of bowls and hollow forms. Could be technique ...

However, I'm thinking of upgrading to a beefier lathe, I don't have a lot of space for a long bed and don't really turn long spindles. I was wondering about the Axminster AT1628vs. I currently have it's smaller brother the at1416vs and although I don't feel I regularly need more capacity, the extra power for larger pieces is tempting.

If a swiveling headstock was actually useful, it might tip the balance for me, thinking I'd get the extension for the rare occasions I want the extra length or if I want to turn a really large platter at the headstock end.

any views?

thanks

Daniel
 
I have a swivel head on my lathe it does help especially with hollow forms as you pointed out saves leaning over the bed of the lathe. It also gives the added advantage of being able to do the odd larger bowl as and when a larger blank comes my way. Having said that I have seen some very nice pieces turned from members here who do not have a swivel head.
 
I've got a Record CL2 which has a swivel head. I use it all the time when I'm making bowls. So much easier for me to get inside the bowl and avoid catching the tool handle on the bed bars.
 
Daniel,
I wouldn't be without mine as I have shoulder problems and hollowing without swivelling the head would be impossible.
If you are upgrading, go for one, you don't have to use it all the time but as Henry Ford said, 'if you need a machine and don't buy it, then you will ultimately find that you have paid for it but don't have it'.
Go get it!

Dave
 
I've found the swivelling headstock on my Tyme Avon to be hugely useful. Not only for the occasions you need extra capacity to turn a big blank, but mainly for just improving access to bowls etc.
 
IMO the biggest single attribute you can have in a small workshop location, improved vision of internals, far less risk of internal catches as tool presentation is significantly easier and for those of us not in our prime avoiding back problems (leaning over lathe) is a boon.
 
Also a big help in not getting back ache through bending forward leaning over the lathe bed. To be honest I think mine is swiveled most of the time when doing face work and gets put back to use the tail stock. get one that is easy to reposition though as some lathes seem to have an inbuilt aversion to lining up again.

pete
 
+1 for swivel head...CL4......nice feature. Also, having a short bed is all very well for saving space but just wait till you start clonking your elbow on the very sharp live centre. If you cant take the whole tailstock assembly off easily then beware the apparent advantage of short beds (or at least eject the centre easily).

The swivel head will of course help with that too but I find I tend not to swivel the head for trivial operations because it upsets the alignment and the CL4 doesn't have a detent to lock back centre alignment, you need to do the kiss test each time as do most lathes that cost under 3 grand. So I'll swivel it for bowl work but not to say hollow out an end grain box...that's when you catch your elbow. Our club has various mini lathes and I have to say I hate the things. The CL4 has a 36" centre and that's just enough to avoid the elbow clonking scenario.
 
+1 from me, don't use it all the time but when you need it it's very handy. I've got a record nova and it you can just swivel it a bit and lock it so you can still use the banjo on the main bed.
 
Well, that's a resounding thumbs up for the swivel, thanks all. It's definitely on my list of must have requirement's.
 
I have a 1628. The swivelling headstock is useful, but also a nuisance.
It is useful to get to work pieces sometimes.
It is a nuisance because it does not centre when you move the headstock. This is especially annoying if you need to move the headstock then want to drill, because then you have to realign the headstock with a centre in it with another centre in the tailstock. If you happen to have had a chuck in the headstock there is a lot of removing and fitting.
It does not naturally align fore and aft or up and down, position is dependant on how well you tighten the locking lever. S you have to guess, tighten the lever and see where it ends up. Then loosen the lever and guess again where the centre should start from and retighten, refine this a few times until it is approximately central. That is about as good as it will go. If you should then move the headstock you have to start all over. It does not matter for bowls and not too much for spindle turning.
 
Just to put another point of view because IMHO you've had too many enthusiastic swivel-head owners reply and no one else except Woodfarmer. Other lathes are available and quite a lot without swivelling headstocks. Somehow people do get by without them :wink:

There is another solution to better access and that's by sliding the headstock to the end of the bed.

It's the solution for bigger, and dare I say better lathes, such as the Jets (1642, 3520b and 4224).
No reallignment issues and just as good, if not better, access IMHO.
But you do need the physical space around the lathe to allow you to fit the lathe in.

Alternatively remove the bed altogether like the VB36 or other dedicated bowl lathes like the Graduate.

HTH
Jon
 
Well in a sense that's the OneWay solution by using a modern take on the inboard and outboard with EVS and a reversing lathe.

big_outboard.jpg


...but two lathes might be cheaper :wink:

Jon
 
chipmunk":13mkcodh said:
Just to put another point of view because IMHO you've had too many enthusiastic swivel-head owners reply and no one else except Woodfarmer. Other lathes are available and quite a lot without swivelling headstocks. Somehow people do get by without them :wink:

There is another solution to better access and that's by sliding the headstock to the end of the bed.

It's the solution for bigger, and dare I say better lathes, such as the Jets (1642, 3520b and 4224).
No reallignment issues and just as good, if not better, access IMHO.
But you do need the physical space around the lathe to allow you to fit the lathe in.

Alternatively remove the bed altogether like the VB36 or other dedicated bowl lathes like the Graduate.

HTH
Jon

I do tend to turn bowls "off the end" because it gives much better access, Even then being able to swivel the head can still be an advantage, especially if you need to turn the back of the workpiece.
The only time so far I have really needed for the centres to line up is when I needed to drill an accurate and centered hole in a workpiece held in a chuck.
 
Random Orbital Bob":2qyak0nn said:
I've just realised what the answer is. One lathe for bowls, another for spindle work. As Monty Python might say "luxury"

I think what is needed is an accurate carrier with a tapered dowel locating plug to be the sliding up and down the bed bit with no provision for not being off centre, Mount the swivelling headstock on this and lock the headstock to the dowel socket. That way you "should" be able to just move it about and put it back centrered whenever you want. You could gain a bit of swing over the bed at the same time :)
Naturally the tailstock would also have to be raised to suit the headstock.
 
Funny this discussion should come up now because I'm right in the middle of changing my lathe. I've acquired a 2nd hand Woodfast with a broken either inverter or motor which I'm in the middle of getting help to fix. It's a beautiful, sturdy MT2 beast with an 18" swing over the bed and it also has a swivel head. This model is essentially the model that Record Power now badge as the Maxi 1 but was originally badged by Axminster and of course Woodfast are an Australian company. The engineering is lovely. Reminds me of older hand made British stuff. Sturdy, very fine tolerances and heavy use of cast iron that's well machined. The mechanism for the swivel head is interesting. Inside the headstock wheel house is a substantial lock nut which is undone by a hex spanner and adjascent 2 gnarled top steel pins about 2" apart along the axis of the bed. The pins fit perfectly into 2 incredibly accurately machined holes which line up through the bottom of the headstock and into the bed essentially providing a double detent which centres the headstock bang on for tailstock alignment. Once aligned by hand by just dropping the pins in, nip up the nut and no kiss test required. Really old fashioned solution but ingenious and totally bullet proof. The pins are substantial (8mm diameter) so no danger of the headstock bending them.

Once I've got it all restored and working I'll post a few pics because it really is a beauty.
 
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