Stopped groove without a router

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L2wis

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I'm getting a plunge router for xmas however I've got a small project to make where I need a nice draw bottom affect. I'd really like to replicate a stopped groove normally cut with a table router.

What would be the best way of going about this? Could my drill press be utilized with a special bit in it (or a router bit)? Or even use a nice small chisel for it? I picture the chisel + my skills making a huge mess of it haha!
 
Hi, Lewis

Have a go at it with a saw and chisel on some scrap, saw the sides and chisel out the waste.
You will only improve your skill level by practicing.
Power tool only help you make mistakes faster.

Pete
 
fair point there regarding power tools haha. I don't think i'll be able to use a saw though as I don't want the cut to show at the jointed ends.
 
L2wis":eqdkwb80 said:
fair point there regarding power tools haha. I don't think i'll be able to use a saw though as I don't want the cut to show at the jointed ends.
We did this at school, we used a saw for the sides then a chisel and hand (not powered) router to finish it off. I'd use a plunge router now !
 
Method,

1) Use a knife to mark in the sides of the stopped groove.
2) Use the knife to cut DEEPLY along the marking or sides of the groove
3) Use a chisel to remove a small fillet of wood from the inside of the groove and along the knife cuts leaving a shoulder to saw against
4) Use a cross cut backsaw to saw along the groove edge using the chiselled out edge as a guide
5) use chisel and mallet to remove wood at centre of groove
6) smooth out groove bottom with a hand pushed router

Sit back and smile as it works out fine. Maybe cut a few practice grooves in scrap first to get your eye in.

Its faster than using an electric router.

Al
 
mseries":ljmicj2g said:
Its faster than using an electric router.

I know what you mean but that sounds like a challenge to me! :twisted:

Do you really need to make a stopped groove? you very rarely find them in handmade traditional work, there is usually a way to avoid them, like haunches or lap dovetails etc.
 
it's quite possible I don't need them, I couldn't think of another way of putting in a nice bottom/floor.

The project I'm making is a lightbox so essentially a box with frosted glass for a lid. The stopped grooves were going to be used for the glass to sit in and the base.
 
Hi, Lewis

Miter the corners then you don't need stopped groves.
Or but the corners, and add a small block to plug the end of the groove.
Or cut a rebate and secure the glass with thin strips of wood, so it you break the glass you don't have to throw the whole thing away and start again.

Pete
 
Humm good idea about the mitres because then the ends wouldn't show. I've not really got the kit for mitre joints though. I do have a tiltable bandsaw but I'm not sure the finish product would be that good without a bench sander. I wanted to use box joints for the sake of practicing them more than anything else.

Great suggestions thou chaps.
 
Do you have a grooving plane?
If you use half blind dovetails you can position the grove so it's hidden and just create a through groove.
 
Just a thought but , could you not treat the operation as a very long very shallow mortice. Use the drill press to make a series of shallow holes in a straight line and remove remainder with a sharp chisel?
 
Andy RV":1mxd4ixx said:
Do you have a grooving plane?
If you use half blind dovetails you can position the grove so it's hidden and just create a through groove.

No afraid not, I'll Google search the half bind dovetails.

lanemaux":1mxd4ixx said:
Just a thought but , could you not treat the operation as a very long very shallow mortice. Use the drill press to make a series of shallow holes in a straight line and remove remainder with a sharp chisel?

This might be a good solution, i think if I combine it with the other idea of scoring the grooves first with a knife/marker it could work well. I was thinking maybe buying a nice straight router bit and using that in my drill press till Christmas? It would be able to plunge to a set depth then have another pair of hands hold the drill down whilst I slowly feed the wood across.

The drill bit and chisel might be safer...
 
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