Hi, I have had a good search, but found nothing that seems to answer my question, so apologies if there is a thread. I recently bought my first bandsaw, a Startrite 301.It appeared in OK shape. A little rust, some chewed thrust bearings and upper guides, but all easily sorted. I installed a new Tuff saws blade and tensioned up and tried to track it. However with the tracking knob fully in, the blade is still slightly forwards of centre? The wheels appear coplanar, and the tyres are in one piece.I am unsure how much depth they had at new, but the top wheel has a definite crown, maybe with a slight double hump? Any thoughts on a solution ( putting new tyres on it?), or am I being too busy? I can post pictures if you think that would help. Many thanks, Mark
Startrite 301 tracking question
- Thread starter ClintonHills
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CHJ
Established Member
Is the blade running vertically (90 deg. to the table) in both planes, does the blade cut straight without wander, can you slice (re-saw) stock?
If so just get on and cut wood. I note on my saw (14" SIP) that the blades position varies dependant upon blade width, tooth count and set, the only thing I take notice of is that the teeth are not significantly marking the tyres when first fitted or when I occasionally clean off resin deposits.
If so just get on and cut wood. I note on my saw (14" SIP) that the blades position varies dependant upon blade width, tooth count and set, the only thing I take notice of is that the teeth are not significantly marking the tyres when first fitted or when I occasionally clean off resin deposits.
The logical position is for the blade to be supported as much as possible at the front without the teeth damaging the tyres. Logic doesn't always work though sadly and as said, blade size can make a big difference. Test cuts and small adjustments are the answer until you get used to your machine. And if you use a lot of different blades, make notes!
Thanks for all the replies. The blades sits with slightly more room behind the blade than in front. This is what surprised me, in that I had to wind the adjuster all the way in. Blade is 90 degrees vertically to the table, horizontally it is angled to the left, about 6 mm left of centre at the front of the table. I just rechecked all this, I track the blade after it is tensioned, not as per the manual. Which I assumed is an error, and definitely moves too much if you set it just after taking the slack out. I also just noticed that the lower wheel has a slight step in it, as the front half has been worn down, and the teeth are almost tubing on the wheel itself. The saw cuts OK, obviously with a large drift, but not any real wander. A slight ripple at the cut start is probably due to operator error. It is only a half in blade, I was confused over the Max size it will tension is it 5/8 or 3/4? Tempted to renew the tyres, but I do believe in the ' if it isn't broke (or you aren't sure it is) leave well alone. Thanks
Thanks Charlie, and Alex from Startrite 352-lower wheel adjustment thread ( can't paste in URL?).Will try the.Carter video from that link and see where that takes me.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
We have an old Startrite in the Community Workshop. It is a solid bit of kit, BUT it is the most difficult saw I've ever had to set up. All the adjustment points seem to foul each other. We have to use a specially ground-down allen key to adjust the bearings and when we do get it set up nicely, it's no time at all before it needs doing again. It's a PITA, to be honest and I'm glad mine isn't like that.
I suspect that if we spent some money on it replacing the tyres and the guides, it would be a pleasure to use.
I suspect that if we spent some money on it replacing the tyres and the guides, it would be a pleasure to use.
As I mentioned in another post, having the right tools can make a big difference to how easy adjustments can be made.
These are the two long Bondhus hex keys I use on my bandsaw. They make things much easier. These are the long version ball end keys Bondhus make, they also make extra long versions!
These are the two long Bondhus hex keys I use on my bandsaw. They make things much easier. These are the long version ball end keys Bondhus make, they also make extra long versions!
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Ball-ends do make life easier.
Ours is a much older model though, and we can't even get ball-ends in. The allen screw is covered over by part of the casting, so we have to use a special key that we have ground down to get in. It's a bonkers design, which they have obviously changed.
Ours is a much older model though, and we can't even get ball-ends in. The allen screw is covered over by part of the casting, so we have to use a special key that we have ground down to get in. It's a bonkers design, which they have obviously changed.
