STARTRITE 275 TABLE SAW

[mock]

O.k back to my startrite table saw 275 1st question the saw starts when all other electrics are of and only the saw is on }}} if i start her with the lights on in the garage she trips the saw should i change the other fuse in the consumer unit what is a 6 amp for the lights ect if so what do you recommend ????? And now for question no 2 my saw blade what is 12 in keeps hitting the the plate in the photo when wound up fully any suggestions
mock

 

[lincs1963]

I would say either your saw is designed to take a 10" blade and not a 12" or that blade is bigger than 12".
If, on start up, the machine is tripping everything its not going to help changing the trip on the lighting circuit, it must be tripping the main rcd. Don't know much about your model of saw but does it require a 13 or 16 amp supply? It sounds as though the saw is drawing too juch power for your supply, either through a fault or just being a more powerful industrial motor.

 

[mock]

single phase 2.2 motor when i start the saw it tripped the 20 amp fuse in the consumer unit so i switched off every thing else including the lights and away she went

 

[blackrodd]

I had a big mitre saw that blew fuses, but it was ok on the cooker plug/circuit, I bought it for one job, and sold it to a friend with a new workshop and dedicated power supply.
I wouldn't think a larger saw blade is helping either.
Probably best to hear from someone whom speaks fluent electrics, and make sure.
Regards Rodders

 

[mock]

Help required any one :lol: :lol:

 

[Duncan A]

An induction motor that size will briefly be drawing 70 to 100A on startup and that is why your 20A MCB (miniature circuit breaker) is tripping. You will need a dedicated 20A or 16A socket and increase the rating of the MCB, and/or change it from what is almost certainly a type B to a type C. In addition you will have to ensure that the wiring is adequately rated for the job!

If in any doubt over any of this, get an electrician to take a look at it.
Duncan

 

[mock]

Just :idea: a thought when i said the the blade is catching the table insert as in the photo above could this be anything to do with the blade on the saw as a insert washer instead of a straight fit :idea:

 

[misterfish]

If you mean a bore reducing wash that reduces the bore of the blade to the diameter of the arbor then that should make no difference as it holds the blade concentrically on the arbor. My saw has a 20mm arbor and I use reducing washers when using 30mm bore blades without any problem.

As for the table insert - maybe Startrite made other inserts for different blades. My saw is an old Wadkin that is nominally 10 inch but it will take a 12 inch blade - the insert is open ended at the front. However, Wadkin also made inserts for moulding heads and dado blade sets. I have made a series of insertd for my saw from plywood - zero clearance ones for 'normal' blades with the blade guard and a wider slotted one for use with my stacked dado set. These wooden inserts are essentially disposable and don't cause any damage if they come into contact with th blade.

Misterfish

 

[Alf Beharie]

My Scheppach TS30 also has a 2.2kw induction motor. Because of this I decided it would be prudent to uprate my extension cable so I bought 20 metres of "rubber insulated" 2.5mm2, 3 core cable. This is better quality cable that the usual cheapo PVC insulated alternative, and as a result it costs about twice the price...It cost me about £51! I also bought a twin socket to go on one end so I could simultaneously power my ha1000 dust extractor from the same lead, for about another £7. They also gave a old wooden reel so I could roll it onto it when no being used. I don't have a workshop so the lead plugs into a heavy duty cooker type twin socket in the kitchen and runs out the kitchen window off to the TS30. It works flawlessly, without tripping any RCD/MCB's in the fusebox, even when the ha1000 and TS30 are running together, even with the latter running under cutting load...The combined power consumption of the TS30 and ha1000 is 3.3kw...A 13Amp supply can only supply just over 3.1kw, which will trip the RCD/MCB its connected to...But running them from a cooker socket is fine because it can supply over 3.8kw...So there is your solution, avoid your standard 240volt sockets and run it from a cooker socket. 8)

 

[Mrwilson]

Why not take the insert out and extend the slot? Provided its clearing everything else underneath the surface that should do it. As said earlier though, the saw probably isn't designed for that size of blade and that may not be helping with the tripping problem. Try it with a ten inch blade if you have one just out of curiosity.

Shug

 

[apreston]

If it really is a 275 then it should take 12inch blade. The insert plate on mine looks to have a longer slot in it. It's 14 7/16 inch long, and ends 5/16 from the front edge of the plate. Yours looks to end almost 1 inch from the front edge. So I suspect you have a non-standard insert. As others have suggested, make your own out of plywood.

Also second Duncan's advice about motor start-up currents and the need for electrician to set you up properly.

 

[mock]

Thank.s for the reply i,m sure i posted some photo,s of the saw up and running with the insert plate slot extended ?? But iv.e had a look on here , and can,t find any so it look.s like i forgot sorry It must of been the excitement of going to Alaska whale watching in June well that.s my excuse and i,m sticking to it lol