Startright sd31

[CS Bespoke Furniture]

Anyone had experience with this machine or can recommend one similar.

 

[Woodmonkey]

I have one, did you want to know something specific? I can recommend it, it's an excellent machine

 

[CS Bespoke Furniture]

I have one, did you want to know something specific? I can recommend it, it's an excellent machine

Just really that it would be worth the extra. Wasn't planing on spending that much but have seen people saying It would be better to spend the extra so I don't have to upgrade again.

 

[CS Bespoke Furniture]

I have one, did you want to know something specific? I can recommend it, it's an excellent machine

Oh and also whether the 240v version works with normal plug or whether it's a special fitment

 

[Woodmonkey]

Ours has a 16amp plug on it, so yes you will need a 16amp supply.
As to whether to spend the money, only you can decide that, but if you're running a serious business it's peanuts really when you spread it over say 10 years.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Just to make a point here re the plug compatibility with 240V mains. I have the 300 which is the same model but with a cast iron fence instead of an extrusion and without the thicknessing dial readout, all other components the same including the "caravan" style plug. The recommendation for 16V comes from the current it draws on startup ie when it needs a lot of power to overcome the inertia of all that heavy steel in the 3 cutter block. Before going to the expense of installing a 16V supply in my workshop I thought I'd test it against 240V so I whipped the 16V plug off and stuck a regular one on. That was 4 years ago and it has never once tripped the mains!! And I don't have type C breakers either, just the regular ones.

 

[CS Bespoke Furniture]

Just to make a point here re the plug compatibility with 240V mains. I have the 300 which is the same model but with a cast iron fence instead of an extrusion and without the thicknessing dial readout, all other components the same including the "caravan" style plug. The recommendation for 16V comes from the current it draws on startup ie when it needs a lot of power to overcome the inertia of all that heavy steel in the 3 cutter block. Before going to the expense of installing a 16V supply in my workshop I thought I'd test it against 240V so I whipped the 16V plug off and stuck a regular one on. That was 4 years ago and it has never once tripped the mains!! And I don't have type C breakers either, just the regular ones.

That's pretty smart. All the websites I've seen haven't recommended a 16v on the sd31 either.

It's seems to be one of the biggest p/t's that's doesn't recommend a 16v. Which I won't be installing, way to much cost and upheaval.

 

[MikeJhn]

16amp not 16v which means volts, big difference, to require a 16amp supply the machine would have to be 4.6HP, but as has been said the manufactures requirement for a 16amp supply (if they ask for it) is to cover the start up surge from the motor, you should have a C type breaker in the consumer unit to cover this circuit, if your current (pun) breaker does not trip out when starting your machine it is not sensitive enough (old) and would not perform its normal protecting function if required to do so, however in the UK home workshop environment we mistakenly run our machines off one of the house ring mains that is protected by a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit, (not a good idea in the workshop) this obviously will not trip out under normal circumstance's unless the remaining sockets on that ring main are being used by a hungry machine, think kitchen kettle at 3Kw approximately 13amp's by itself.

It is always preferable to have a separate consumer unit for the workshop supplied with its own RCD and C type MCB's, with dedicated supplies to each machine, any ring main being for small hand tools, this is to ensure that if something does go wrong and the workshop is plunged into darkness the house still has its lights on, also good idea to have an emergency light over the workshop unit.

Mike

 

[CS Bespoke Furniture]

16amp not 16v which means volts, big difference, to require a 16amp supply the machine would have to be 4.6HP, but as has been said the manufactures requirement for a 16amp supply (if they ask for it) is to cover the start up surge from the motor, you should have a C type breaker in the consumer unit to cover this circuit, if your current (pun) breaker does not trip out when starting your machine it is not sensitive enough (old) and would not perform its normal protecting function if required to do so, however in the UK home workshop environment we mistakenly run our machines off one of the house ring mains that is protected by a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit, (not a good idea in the workshop) this obviously will not trip out under normal circumstance's unless the remaining sockets on that ring main are being used by a hungry machine, think kitchen kettle at 3Kw approximately 13amp's by itself.

It is always preferable to have a separate consumer unit for the workshop supplied with its own RCD and C type MCB's, with dedicated supplies to each machine, any ring main being for small hand tools, this is to ensure that if something does go wrong and the workshop is plunged into darkness the house still has its lights on, also good idea to have an emergency light over the workshop unit.

Mike

Yeah 16amp not volt lol. That's good advice though. I do want to expand the workshop at some point and that's when I will do a lot of work on the electrics.

 

[Woodmonkey]

Fwiw we had a 16 supply put in and it's very quick and simple for someone who knows what they're doing, no upheaval or disruption necessary. Useful if you want to run a bigger table saw or dust extractor etc.

 

[n0legs]

16amp not 16v which means volts, big difference, to require a 16amp supply the machine would have to be 4.6HP, but as has been said the manufactures requirement for a 16amp supply (if they ask for it) is to cover the start up surge from the motor, you should have a C type breaker in the consumer unit to cover this circuit, if your current (pun) breaker does not trip out when starting your machine it is not sensitive enough (old) and would not perform its normal protecting function if required to do so, however in the UK home workshop environment we mistakenly run our machines off one of the house ring mains that is protected by a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit, (not a good idea in the workshop) this obviously will not trip out under normal circumstance's unless the remaining sockets on that ring main are being used by a hungry machine, think kitchen kettle at 3Kw approximately 13amp's by itself.

It is always preferable to have a separate consumer unit for the workshop supplied with its own RCD and C type MCB's, with dedicated supplies to each machine, any ring main being for small hand tools, this is to ensure that if something does go wrong and the workshop is plunged into darkness the house still has its lights on, also good idea to have an emergency light over the workshop unit.

Mike

Yeah 16amp not volt lol. That's good advice though. I do want to expand the workshop at some point and that's when I will do a lot of work on the electrics.

When you do uprate your electrical installation/supplies follow the advice of an electrician, not what you read on this forum.

 

[MikeJhn]

16amp not 16v which means volts, big difference, to require a 16amp supply the machine would have to be 4.6HP, but as has been said the manufactures requirement for a 16amp supply (if they ask for it) is to cover the start up surge from the motor, you should have a C type breaker in the consumer unit to cover this circuit, if your current (pun) breaker does not trip out when starting your machine it is not sensitive enough (old) and would not perform its normal protecting function if required to do so, however in the UK home workshop environment we mistakenly run our machines off one of the house ring mains that is protected by a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit, (not a good idea in the workshop) this obviously will not trip out under normal circumstance's unless the remaining sockets on that ring main are being used by a hungry machine, think kitchen kettle at 3Kw approximately 13amp's by itself.

It is always preferable to have a separate consumer unit for the workshop supplied with its own RCD and C type MCB's, with dedicated supplies to each machine, any ring main being for small hand tools, this is to ensure that if something does go wrong and the workshop is plunged into darkness the house still has its lights on, also good idea to have an emergency light over the workshop unit.

Mike

Yeah 16amp not volt lol. That's good advice though. I do want to expand the workshop at some point and that's when I will do a lot of work on the electrics.

When you do uprate your electrical installation/supplies follow the advice of an electrician, not what you read on this forum.

Only your electrical supplier (EDF or similar) can uprate your supply, as to the installation of additional circuits the regulations say, should be carried out by someone who is competent.

Mike

 

[CS Bespoke Furniture]

Oh don't worry I wouldn't touch electrics with a barge pole! Get a professional to do it. Not worth the hassle and if it's goes even slightly wrong it's so dangerous. Plus it would need to be insured.

That's not going to be for a while though

 

[n0legs]

Only your electrical supplier (EDF or similar) can uprate your supply, as to the installation of additional circuits the regulations say, should be carried out by someone who is competent.

Mike

So a circuit to a cooker, shower, out building, etc, etc, etc is not an electrical supply?

 

[MikeJhn]

Your quite correct it is just as you say a "Circuit" electrical supply is you incoming main.

Mike

 

[n0legs]

Your quite correct it is just as you say a "Circuit" electrical supply is you incoming main.

Mike

:lol: :lol:

Okay Mike I'll play silly beggars with you.

How do you advise me to proceed if I want to open up the microwave?
Call the DNO and ask them for a LV shutdown in the area or pull the Cutout fuse?
Or should I just unplug it from the "supply"? :roll:



Word play, you gotta' love it.

 

[n0legs]

16amp not 16v which means volts, big difference, to require a 16amp supply the machine would have to be 4.6HP, but as has been said the manufactures requirement for a 16amp supply (if they ask for it) is to cover the start up surge from the motor, you should have a C type breaker in the consumer unit to cover this circuit
You may need a C type breaker

if your current (pun) breaker does not trip out when starting your machine it is not sensitive enough (old) and would not perform its normal protecting function if required to do so,
The overload current of the MCB has not been met to cause the breaker to operate. Does not mean the MCB is faulty

however in the UK home workshop environment we mistakenly run our machines off one of the house ring mains that is protected by a 32amp breaker in the consumer unit,
Assumption. If anyone has had Mike in to inspect how your shed/workshop is supplied, could you speak up now?

(not a good idea in the workshop) this obviously will not trip out under normal circumstance's unless the remaining sockets on that ring main are being used by a hungry machine, think kitchen kettle at 3Kw approximately 13amp's by itself.
Is this desireable? To have your circuits tripping out. What is the point of this line?

It is always preferable to have a separate consumer unit for the workshop
Only bit that makes sense

supplied with its own RCD and

C type MCB's,
Only if required

with dedicated supplies to each machine, any ring main being for small hand tools, this is to ensure that if something does go wrong and the workshop is plunged into darkness the house still has its lights on,

also good idea to have an emergency light over the workshop unit.
Not a bad idea. Well done Mike
Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

If you are going to work on your Microwave I suggest you read this first: http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/cap_test.html

AT THE VERY LEAST ENSURE THE CAPACITOR IS DISCHARGED BEFORE OPENING THE UNIT BECAUSE EVEN UNPLUGGING IT DOES NOT MAKE IT SAFE..

Mike

 

[n0legs]

Mike are you such a pig headed and an arrogant individual not to realise your advice regarding Type C MCBs could have some undesirable negative consequences for someone following your advice?

Does Zs, Ze, Touch Voltage, reduced CPC, etc not mean anything to you? No I don't expect it does.
You'll just blindly insist everyone installs Type C breakers regardless.
As I've said many a time.
Installation of Type C breakers needs to be considered when a few factors have been taken into consideration.
To avoid "tripping" they are a useful tool when needed. Not just used willy nilly.

Do you not realise someone may read your advice, and just because "it's written on the internet, it must be right" follow your advice.
What would you think if something should go wrong at their home or workshop?
I've pulled up another member in the past over giving out poor advice they were not qualified to do so, show some restraint and some common sense.
I understand you were some kind of surveyor? Do you really possess the ability to remote survey someone else's electrical installation to the extent you are confident on your advice.

Go read up on Type C breakers.

For anyone else who's interested I also suggest you go read about Type C breakers before following this foolish advice. Make sure all of the "boxes are ticked" before you decide to install one.
There's a good reason we have the IEE Regs and Part P.

 

[n0legs]

If you are going to work on your Microwave I suggest you read this first: http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/cap_test.html

AT THE VERY LEAST ENSURE THE CAPACITOR IS DISCHARGED BEFORE OPENING THE UNIT BECAUSE EVEN UNPLUGGING IT DOES NOT MAKE IT SAFE..

Mike

Preaching to the professionals Mike, very good :lol: :wink: