Starting a rip saw - any tips?

[Mikey R]

Hi,

I was finally getting around to working with some hardwoods this afternoon - walnut and poplar, my two new favourites. For the walnut, I needed to do a small amount of resawing, 6mm thick at about 60mm depth, using my 26" Roberts and Lee 4.5 TPI rip saw.

In the past, Ive started the cut using a backsaw then switched to the rip saw after a few strokes. Now its time to grow up, and inspired by the recent dovetail threads, I tried starting the same way as I do with a crosscut saw, starting on the push stroke with only the weight of the blade pushing it down. Ive got the work piece held at 45 degrees so starting on a corner. This simply didnt work so well, the saw either jammed or jumped around and it took me a while to start the kerf where I wanted it.

Next weekend, Im going to need to do the same again, but on a number of boards. Does anyone have any tips for starting a saw with teeth this big?

 

[xy mosian]

With the timber mounted as you describe, drop the handle of the saw so that your first cuts are essentially along the grain only. Gradually lift the saw handle so that you are cutting progressively more of the 'end' grain, until the cutting action is parallel with the floor.

HTH

xy

 

[Mikey R]

Hi Xy, I think I see what you mean. I'll give it a go next weekend!

 

[PAC1]

In addition to a low starting angle, try starting on the pull stroke. it makes a little groove for the saw to work in and is less likely to jump and saw through your thumb, or so I am told. (Not that I would ever have done such a foolish thing myself!)

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi,

I was finally getting around to working with some hardwoods this afternoon - walnut and poplar, my two new favourites. For the walnut, I needed to do a small amount of resawing, 6mm thick at about 60mm depth, using my 26" Roberts and Lee 4.5 TPI rip saw.

In the past, Ive started the cut using a backsaw then switched to the rip saw after a few strokes. Now its time to grow up, and inspired by the recent dovetail threads, I tried starting the same way as I do with a crosscut saw, starting on the push stroke with only the weight of the blade pushing it down. Ive got the work piece held at 45 degrees so starting on a corner. This simply didnt work so well, the saw either jammed or jumped around and it took me a while to start the kerf where I wanted it.

Next weekend, Im going to need to do the same again, but on a number of boards. Does anyone have any tips for starting a saw with teeth this big?

Mike,

I've had some poplar in stick for quite a few years now.
I didn't use it yet because I heard it is a bit 'woolly' and difficult to finish cleanly. Not that I mind a bit of work, but I am at the stage where the less labour intensive my woodwork is the better.

So it remains to be seen if I will ever use it. I was considering using some of it for face frames on the drawers that I want to put into my new workbench.

Any pointers please?

Cheers
John

 

[Mikey R]

Mike,

I've had some poplar in stick for quite a few years now.
I didn't use it yet because I heard it is a bit 'woolly' and difficult to finish cleanly. Not that I mind a bit of work, but I am at the stage where the less labour intensive my woodwork is the better.

So it remains to be seen if I will ever use it. I was considering using some of it for face frames on the drawers that I want to put into my new workbench.

Any pointers please?

Cheers
John

Hi John,

This is the first time Ive used poplar myself. From what Ive seen, it cuts VERY easily and planes well with sharp tools. I'll let you know how I get on when I get to the scraping and finish sanding stage!

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks Mike..
I try never to use sanding myself...
Hence I work mostly with easy-plane timber!

Thanks .
Await your verdict

John

 

[Mikey R]

Hi John,

Heres the scarf joint - the headstock is poplar, with a walnut accent underneath, onto an ash neck:

It looks a little weird, but the poplar head will be covered in an ash veneer, I only chose poplar to save on weight.

Planing the poplar so that it is flush with the ash neck was a bit of a challenge - I started to appreciate the 'wooliness' you were talking about. The plane blade didnt feel like it was biting, like it does on ash or maple.

But then I was rewarded with this totally bizarre view - the user will never get to see this as it will be covered by the fingerboard. Where the poplar meets the walnut at such a shallow angle I was thinking it looked so much like a beverage made from chocolate and cream:

Still, working a medium harness timber like walnut next to a wooly timber like poplar, at an angle of 14 degrees to the grain, was an interesting challenge. The body will also be ash over poplar, but that should be easier.

Anyway, back on topic, next I'll need to rip the neck to width with the correct taper. I'll see how I get on.

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks Mike...

I think I can safely go ahead and use the poplar for some of the framing on my bench.

Having watched Jimmy Foster on the YouTube, making his 7 string guitars, I feel envy! How great to be able to build yourself a big, cello-jazz guitar that would cost somewhere in the region of £3,000 in the store! (And it looks like he makes one in about a fortnight!)

I might build my own Strat one day! :lol:

Thanks again Mike..

John

 

[mr grimsdale]

.... a small amount of resawing, 6mm thick at about 60mm depth, using my 26" Roberts and Lee 4.5 TPI rip saw....

Rip saw isn't a precision instrument so for 6mm thick pieces I'd saw down a 12mm line (bit less if you are very careful) and plane down to size.
We had a rip saw thread here.
To start the saw have a practice in some scrap you will soon get the hang of it. Remember it's a fast and furious operation, not a cautious nibble or you will be at it all day!

 

[Mikey R]

I might build my own Strat one day! :lol:

Fender style guitars are actually really easy to build using a few hand tools and a decent router.

I built this bass on a weeks course last summer:

 

[Benchwayze]

I might build my own Strat one day! :lol:

Fender style guitars are actually really easy to build using a few hand tools and a decent router.

Yep! Which Is why I would choose to make a solid, if I ever attempted a guitar. :lol:

Nice looking bass there Mick. A long time since I played bass. It's great with some good jazzers!

Every guitar I have ever owned had a rosewood or ebony fret board. The first Strat I ever played had a Maple fretboard. Unplayable! I just couldn't find my place on the fretboard! At first I thought it was due to the length of the neck (Much more overhang than 'real' guitars!) But when I tried a dark coloured fretboard, Bingo! No problem!

So I steer clear of light coloured fretboards.\

Cheers
John

 

[Mikey R]

So I steer clear of light coloured fretboards.\

Its just a preference thing - I never liked maple boards either till a few years ago, now I love them. I like the feel of the board under the string, it doesnt feel slow and spongey like rosewood does - which is weird, as rosewood is quite alot harder than maple. Maybe thats just me.

P.S.

.... a small amount of resawing, 6mm thick at about 60mm depth, using my 26" Roberts and Lee 4.5 TPI rip saw....

Rip saw isn't a precision instrument so for 6mm thick pieces I'd saw down a 12mm line (bit less if you are very careful) and plane down to size.
We had a rip saw thread here.
To start the saw have a practice in some scrap you will soon get the hang of it. Remember it's a fast and furious operation, not a cautious nibble or you will be at it all day!

Thanks for that link, I'll have a read through that over lunch tomorrow - cheers! Ive not got so much walnut, I only just bought enough and will probably have to go back for more anyway, so Im being a little frugal with it. The ash is a different matter and Ive got loads spare - I'll just go at it. :twisted: