Started the new year with a pressie for myself - handplane

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jorgoz

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Happy new year and all the best for 2011 to everybody and may the shavings fly.

I wanted to make myself a handplane for a long time and i've just finished it today, well it needs it's final shaping but i took some test shavings. It's a walnut/padouk lamination jack plane with a japanese plane iron.
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Throat is really tight, i can just slip a piece of paper through it.
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First shavings. Not as thin as my old stanley 4, but i'm quite pleased with these.
5311948199_10d6c02b60_z.jpg
 
The iron is a recycled blade from a japanese kanna is had.

I used David Finck's Fine woodworking article on making wooden planes, i have his book too, but the article is all you need, for a general overview.

I just shaped the backside :lol: , now only the front end to do.
 
Excellent work!

I've made a couple of wooden planes, but never really had much luck/was never good enough to get one working as I'd like. Yours performs much better than mine ever did even after some fettling. I'm guessing that this is about Jack sized, so you now need to make a smoother and jointer to complete the family...

Congratulations

Aled
 
jorgoz":269cp4o8 said:
The iron is a recycled blade from a japanese kanna is had.

I used David Finck's Fine woodworking article on making wooden planes, i have his book too, but the article is all you need, for a general overview.

I just shaped the backside :lol: , now only the front end to do.

I've got a Japanese plane iron that I'd like to try using in a home-made plane and I have a couple of questions for you. Did you chose not to use the metal wedge and pin with the iron or did you not have them? Also, did you need to do anything special to make the wedge fit against the curved back of the iron?
 
I've got a Japanese plane iron that I'd like to try using in a home-made plane and I have a couple of questions for you. Did you chose not to use the metal wedge and pin with the iron or did you not have them? Also, did you need to do anything special to make the wedge fit against the curved back of the iron?

I flattened the front of the blade so it would touch the 'ramp' properly. The wedge is ever so slightly hollowed so it touches the sides of the back of the blade. Just didn't think about using the original chipbreaker and pin to be honest.
 
Here's some more pictures of the 'finished' plane. I presume with use it will get tweaked a little for a more comfortable fit.
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Just can't help it.
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It's a 0.0015 inch shaving if hackberry (digital calipers). The key is the sole. Took me a while to condition the sole, but i think i almost got there. Planed some elm (grain going in opposite directions) with a very tiny bit of tearout, but the iron wasn't crisp anymore so it was a very satisfactory result and the board has a nice shimmer to it

The idea is using this plane for jointing boards and smoothing.
 
How does it cope with something really nasty :twisted: :twisted: and interlocked?..the stuff you've got there looks quite benign - Rob
 
woodbloke":1vus1ici said:
How does it cope with something really nasty :twisted: :twisted: and interlocked?..the stuff you've got there looks quite benign - Rob

You seem to be sceptic :lol:

you have to bear in mind that this is a 45° bedding angle plane, so nowt special. I cleaned up a board of sipo, it's the most troublesome wood i've lying around. It's got quite interlocked grain. The board just shimmers in the light. It did have a fairly minute amount of tearout, but i needed to hold it up in the light at an angle to see it, so again i'm chuffed. Moistening the troublespots with some, ahum, spit :p really helps.

Also put some finish on the plane, not the sole though.
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After only using it for this short time, i'm under the impression that metal bodied planes are more forgiving towards the user. As with the japanese kanna these seem to demand more input from it's user. Because of the lack of weight, you really need to get the pressures right. On the front when starting a cut and on the back when finishing it.

If i really have some naughty wood, i'll take my japanese scraper plane to tame it. :D
 
jorgoz":3uce5yn5 said:
woodbloke":3uce5yn5 said:
How does it cope with something really nasty :twisted: :twisted: and interlocked?..the stuff you've got there looks quite benign - Rob

You seem to be sceptic :lol:

If i really have some naughty wood, i'll take my japanese scraper plane to tame it. :D
I'm always septical when I see this sort of thing demonstrated:

Hackberry: Ranging in color from light brown to silvery gray, it usually features ridges and rough, irregular warts. And in summer, hackberry carries 2-4" long, roundish, tooth-edged leaves that end in a sharp point. Small purple, cherrylike fruits (edible by birds) that ripen in the fall. At 37 pounds per cubic foot air-dried, hackberry wood weighs about the same as black walnut and is nearly as hard but not as strong. Yet surprisingly, it outranks walnut in shock resistance. The color of hackberry ranges from creamy white (sometimes with a grayish cast) to a light yellowish tan, with no sharp contrast between heartwood and sapwood. Its grain resembles ash.

Sipo wood: General Description: Sipo Mahogany has similar characteristics to Genuine Mahogany. The heartwood is fairly uniform red- or purple brown; well demarcated from the light brown sapwood. It is one of the leading woods for manufacturing of exterior joinery and nautical constructions. Often produces a striped ribbon figure.
Janka Hardness: 670
Color: Light brown sapwood and reddish brown, mahogany-like heartwood.
Color Change: This wood is light brown-red when first milled, then darkens significantly over time.
Grain: Interlocked, irregular grain with medium texture.
Finishing: Stains and finishes well.
Characteristics: Sipo Mahogany is a fairly soft hardwood. This wood's constant and even quality makes it a much-sought after variety.

...from the first two hits that I Googleised. Let's see the same results from something like Greenheart...please? - Rob
 
With all respect but if i ever wanted to work with something like greenheart i'd use a high angle bedded plane, a standard 45° bedded plane with a backbeveld blade, a bu plane with a high angle blade or a scraper plane not your average bench plane.
 
jorgoz":2gqx1pry said:
With all respect but if i ever wanted to work with something like greenheart i'd use a high angle bedded plane, a standard 45° bedded plane with a backbeveld blade, a bu plane with a high angle blade or a scraper plane not your average bench plane.
Agreed, you've now told us that it's 'nothing special' and has a bevel angle of 45deg, which is fine for run of the mill 'normal' timbers, but it would have been nice to know that in the opening post, would it not? You have though made a rather nice job of the plane in general, though I wouldn't have put quites such a slope at the heel.
Apologies for any angst, but I've got the mother and father of a cold and generally feel like a bucket of shyte - Rob, whose going to have an early night with a large tot:

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of something nice.
 
woodbloke":38z3jwz8 said:
...generally feel like a bucket of shyte...
Sheesh, Rob, you're certainly doing your best to spread it around too. He's not trying to sell you the thing, for the love of Norm. Go to bed, man. You're in no fit state for company. [-X

Cheers, Alf
Who seems to be channeling her old school matron. Be afraid, be very afraid... :twisted:
 
Rob - single malt with a cold seems a bit of waste with all your taste buds shot - cheaper blended one will do just as well? :)

Get well soon.

Rod
 
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