Stanley Cooker Super Star Gas Fired Waterford

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quintain

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Has anyone worked-owned-repaired a Gas Fired Stanley Super Star Boiler-Oven-Central heater from the Waterford stable at Bilberry, Ireland.

My old, wonderful early 1990 but now a bit wonky boiler needs attention.
It is starting up but always shutting down after 7 or 8 minutes.
I am carrying out basic checks such as the chimney which is clear of soot constriction.
I am told they are similar to the AGA cooker.
We/I use it in our own farm house, it is not commercial use. Cooker gas valve1.jpgCooker Instructions1.jpgCooker Pic1.jpggas burner1.JPG

I can post more details of the problems BUT they may be boring to most persons reading them.

I am trying to source some electronics and other matters but the rarity of the boiler means that parts are very expensive.

Accordingly if any one can direct me to good but not over priced parts that would be wonderful.
Additionally any practical advice would be welcome.
 
I’ve never in 30 + years ever worked on or seen one of these but it does look similar to the earlier gas arga,s . It literally could be anything from ignition to the water circulation around the central heating- does it have a circulation pump? Is the heating system bled free of air , is there water in top of the system assuming it’s a tank fed system ? You can eliminate the basics but after that my best and safest advice is to get a qualified gas engineer to check the boiler . The picture I’ve circled appears to be the gas valve to your boiler and either of the 2 black solenoids could be faulty- I’m guessing 1 is for the pilot ignition and the other is for the main gas to the burner. You may find that parts are obsolete but you could try searching online for ABGO heating parts , b gas used to get a lot of there parts from a company called time and temperature but I’m not certain if they are still trading. Hope this is helpful.
 
I’ve never in 30 + years ever worked on or seen one of these but it does look similar to the earlier gas arga,s . It literally could be anything from ignition to the water circulation around the central heating- does it have a circulation pump? Is the heating system bled free of air , is there water in top of the system assuming it’s a tank fed system ? You can eliminate the basics but after that my best and safest advice is to get a qualified gas engineer to check the boiler . The picture I’ve circled appears to be the gas valve to your boiler and either of the 2 black solenoids could be faulty- I’m guessing 1 is for the pilot ignition and the other is for the main gas to the burner. You may find that parts are obsolete but you could try searching online for ABGO heating parts , b gas used to get a lot of there parts from a company called time and temperature but I’m not certain if they are still trading. Hope this is helpful.
Forgot the pic 🫣🫣
 

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A delayed shutdown sounds like overheating - will it start again immediately, or do you have to wait 15-30 mins?

If so, check out the heating pump as most likely suspect.

A test could be to run it in oven only mode - if it's fine then, something about the heating has gone wrong.
 
Profchris
Delay about 30 (ish) minutes before it will restart.
Sometimes it will restart automatically; sometimes I need to press a thermal push in button.
Old pump is working, i,e, screwdriver onto pump outer casing and 'into' ear and I can hear sounds
I will try Oven only procedure.
Bingy man
I will try to replace one/both of the black solenoids.

AND
I am still looking for reasonable (or not exorbitant) price parts supplier.
 
There are several companies online that supply parts but from what I’ve seen the parts are very expensive. This is quite normal for older appliances as the parts are probably no longer made and will be in short supply.
Stanley Super 80 Cooker Parts - McDonogh Galway
Stanley Spares - Harworth Heating
Stanley 80, Stanley 90 & Stanley Comeragh Spares
Stanley Cooker Servicing, Repairs and Maintenance
Thanks Bingy man
Stanley named parts do appear very expensive, hence my description of exorbitant.
I am hoping that some 'non specific Stanley spares' will work on my boiler i.e. cheaper but still good quality spare parts.
A further regret is that Stanley owners do not have a dedicated forum; it would be at such a forum that alternative parts would be discussed.
I remain hopefull that someone from anywhere in the world on this knowledgeable and far reaching forum can still tell me "I have worked on Stanley boilers and......."
 
Thanks Bingy man
Stanley named parts do appear very expensive, hence my description of exorbitant.
I am hoping that some 'non specific Stanley spares' will work on my boiler i.e. cheaper but still good quality spare parts.
A further regret is that Stanley owners do not have a dedicated forum; it would be at such a forum that alternative parts would be discussed.
I remain hopefull that someone from anywhere in the world on this knowledgeable and far reaching forum can still tell me "I have worked on Stanley boilers and......."
1st point is don’t order any part’s until you are sure of the problem, as myself and others have posted it could be a system related issue- you have said you can hear the pump motor running but this doesn’t mean it’s working correctly ( a fairly common pump fault is the impeller has become detached from the spindle and no longer circulates the water causing the boiler to overheat) your boiler safety controls will then shut down the boiler , when that heat has dissipated the boiler cuts in again and the process starts again. Exactly the same will happen if the main heating circuit is severely blocked or restricted. Does your heating system have a small header tank ( often in the loft or a high position in your home. This tank if you have one tops the ch system up as water is naturally evaporated or as and when you bleed the radiators - if this header tank ( controlled by a standard ball valve is faulty then the top of your system could be dry ) again leading to overheating and air locks. A very very common fault is the ball valve has remained in the closed position due to limescale and is no longer allowing water to enter the system. If you’re system is very old this header tank could be incorporated into your domestic hot water cylinder ( look for 2 ball valve’s feeding the tank ) 1 is for the domestic hot water side the other is for the heating. There are also some extremely old cylinders ( primatic) that fill the heating from within the hot water cylinder via an air bubble to separate domestic water from the heating water . Only after confirming these potential issues would I be looking at the boiler - anything from a dirty or restricted pilot or a faulty gas valve/ solonoid/ boiler t/stat or a high or low limit stat / internal flue stat etc etc etc ( gas safe engineer strongly advised) to work on the boiler . Cost of parts are expensive but you have to balance that against the cost of a replacement appliance + installation costs . If your still reading this I apologise for the long post but it may save you time and money if you can eliminate the easy fixes .
 
Thanks Bingy man
Yes to..."no longer circulates the water causing the boiler to overheat) your boiler safety controls will then shut down the boiler , when that heat has dissipated the boiler cuts in again and the process starts again. Exactly the same will happen if the main heating circuit is severely blocked or restricted. Does your heating system have a small header tank"

I am going to flush my radiator and boiler system prior to doing anything.
I put in a drain valve at the lowest point on 15mm copper radiator inlet pipe run; close-ish to an outside door when I installed the boiler in 1993 ( a great pity I didn't use it, more than once about 1995). I will let cold water flow into small header tank via the mains connected float valve in the roof space and out of the low drain valve via a garden hose.
I will fully open up all inlet & outlet radiator valves while the cold water is running from header tank to low outlet.
I will try to run the boiler at low temperature trying to get the pump involved and encourage the fresh water to run through it.

BTW 'sods law' ensues, my ground floor sockets repeatedly cut out today. I wondered what on earth was happening and 'how could the boiler problem' be causing the elec' cut outs BUT I somewhat belatedly found that some out door Christmas lights were shorting to ground. He-ho Life is grand.
 
Thanks Bingy man
Yes to..."no longer circulates the water causing the boiler to overheat) your boiler safety controls will then shut down the boiler , when that heat has dissipated the boiler cuts in again and the process starts again. Exactly the same will happen if the main heating circuit is severely blocked or restricted. Does your heating system have a small header tank"

I am going to flush my radiator and boiler system prior to doing anything.
I put in a drain valve at the lowest point on 15mm copper radiator inlet pipe run; close-ish to an outside door when I installed the boiler in 1993 ( a great pity I didn't use it, more than once about 1995). I will let cold water flow into small header tank via the mains connected float valve in the roof space and out of the low drain valve via a garden hose.
I will fully open up all inlet & outlet radiator valves while the cold water is running from header tank to low outlet.
I will try to run the boiler at low temperature trying to get the pump involved and encourage the fresh water to run through it.

BTW 'sods law' ensues, my ground floor sockets repeatedly cut out today. I wondered what on earth was happening and 'how could the boiler problem' be causing the elec' cut outs BUT I somewhat belatedly found that some out door Christmas lights were shorting to ground. He-ho Life is grand.
Yes it certainly is - a good tip is to try a decent magnet on any exposed copper pipes especially in the airing cupboard- if the magnet attracts to a copper pipes then there is sludge within the pipe or pipes . Also have a look at the water colour as you open the low level drain point - black water indicates sludge ( iron oxide) a red/ orange colour could indicate air ingress into the system via the open vent pipe terminated usually above the header tank. Check the header tank for sludge before opening the drain tap and if it’s not covered any insulation that may have fallen into it . Check ball valve is letting water flow or you could inadvertently drain your system . If you see evidence of sludge as per above advice then get yourself a litre of sludge remover and isolate main’s supply to header tank and drain the header- open the air vent of 1 radiator eg bathroom and let it part drain . Close drain off point and vent to radiator and slowly pour sludge remover into header tank. Turn on water to header and allow to fill , vent air from radiator and turn heating on - the sludge remover will help to clean out the system but only if the boiler is circulating the heat to all rads . I’d recommend changing the circulating pump regardless-at least you will eliminate it from your list of potential problems. If all goes well leave it working for a week or two depending on maker’s information. In the meantime If you get the heating going check for cold spots on the radiators - again another sign of sludge . The heating will then need to be completely drained , flushed through as best you can and refilled but this time add a litre of inhibitor to help keep things going . This is a quick fix the ultimate answer if it is sludge is a power flush to remove the sludge , if a pipe is completely blocked that section will need to be cut out and replaced.
Sentinel X400 System Restorer
Sentinel X100 Central Heating Scale Inhibitor
 
Hi Bingy man
Once again thank you for your helpful input BUT
2023 has been a fatherless child of a year so far.
1. my cooker & combined central heating boiler went AWOL
2. My house elecs went kaput due to Christmas lights going to ground
3. AND now my poor lady wife has fallen and albeit not broken anything is rather poorly at our young age ie UK general retirement age ++ VAT
She was almost indignant when I stared to feel every part of her body immediatly after her fall; she sort of acepted I was checking for broken bones and/or joint/s displacement; and with a big smile she lay back and allowed me to carry on.

I have today tried to replace the CH pump and one of the pump connectors ie 22mm to pipe with 50mm ? to pump has proven also to be a fatherless child with the 50mm connector not want to move.
A small/moderate amount of water through the ceiling to ground floor with drips almost onto the Stanley cooker has occurred.

Tomorrow is a another day!!!

Coffee/red wine and later a brandy is the order of the day/night/evening.
 
Hi Bingy man
Once again thank you for your helpful input BUT
2023 has been a fatherless child of a year so far.
1. my cooker & combined central heating boiler went AWOL
2. My house elecs went kaput due to Christmas lights going to ground
3. AND now my poor lady wife has fallen and albeit not broken anything is rather poorly at our young age ie UK general retirement age ++ VAT
She was almost indignant when I stared to feel every part of her body immediatly after her fall; she sort of acepted I was checking for broken bones and/or joint/s displacement; and with a big smile she lay back and allowed me to carry on.

I have today tried to replace the CH pump and one of the pump connectors ie 22mm to pipe with 50mm ? to pump has proven also to be a fatherless child with the 50mm connector not want to move.
A small/moderate amount of water through the ceiling to ground floor with drips almost onto the Stanley cooker has occurred.

Tomorrow is a another day!!!

Coffee/red wine and later a brandy is the order of the day/night/evening.
Sorry your good lady has taken a tumble - I hope she is recovering well and I’m sure you are looking after her . Try applying a release agent to stubborn joints and leave overnight- you need a penetrating release agent - plus gas is excellent if still available otherwise try wd 40 specialist fast release agent . Liberally apply to the joint (s ) you are struggling with and leave overnight. I assume you isolated the pump valves but these are prone to passing- hence water through ceiling. As you say tomorrow’s is another day -I’m sure you will succeed.🙏🙏🙏
 
Are there no specialist gas engineers who could look over it and save you many hours of struggling and heartache??
 
Are there no specialist gas engineers who could look over it and save you many hours of struggling and heartache??
Hi James
My normal guy has not returned my phone calls from the beginning of this year.
Probably on his yacht somewhere warm.
 

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