Spokeshaves

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Billy Flitch

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Last week there was a thread on spoke shaves and some of the guys where IMO just a little bit unfair with their opinions on the 151. This thread is not meant as a criticism of that,I just got thinking that maybe some one using a metal spoke shave for the first time may be looking for a few pointers, so this thread is just my observations on the use of steel spokeshaves.
I`v used steel spokeshaves for most of my life but I wont make comments on the so called top end spokeshaves because I`v never used them, to be totally honest I`v never seen them in real life.

The very first spokeshave that I used was a wooden one and I know why they fit a brass plate to the front of them its because that is where the tool wears the tool was worn in the front in fact it had a groove in it that made it almost imposable to set and use.I think it was that tool that put me off wooden spokeshaves for life. So if you are thinking about getting a wooden spokeshave get one with a brass plate in front of the mouth just to be on the safe side.

I use four spokeshaves the basic 51 curved sole, two 151 both flat and curved sole and the 53 adjustable mouth
spokeshaves 002.jpg

Like I said the front of the sole is the reference point of the tool and must be kept in contact with the work piece at all times
spokeshaves 008.jpg




Here is a pic of the straight and curved sole on the 151`s, the importance of the curved sole is that it lets the spokeshave drop down at the back and change the angle that the iron contacts the wood, this is used on inside curves (concave).
spokeshaves 016.jpg


The way the spokeshave is held controls just how the tool can be used. First off it is not held like it was a iron bar, it is held just like you would hold a pencil with three fingers in each hand with the for finger slightly forward, the thumb on the back of the tool to give the power to move it forward and the middle finger supporting the tool from underneath.

This pic shows the grip.
spokeshaves 015.jpg


the next pic shows the position for the thumb on the 151 there is a pad at the back of the tool just for this.
spokeshaves 013.jpg


the next pic shows the middle finger from underneath and the other two fingers just gently supporting the handle.
spokeshaves 014.jpg


The hold is important because the forefinger presses down on the front of the tool so the reference point is maintained all the time the tool is being used. the position of the thumb and middle finger allow tool to be swiveled so the optimum angle for the contact between the iron and the work piece can found at all times.


One more post to follow.
 

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This post just shows the four spokeshaves being used with no chatter and taking good shavings at the bench.

the first one curved sole 0151 record
spokeshaves 026.jpg


second 151 flat sole
spokeshaves 027.jpg



Even the basic 51
spokeshaves 028.jpg




Then my personal favorite the 53 adjustable mouth
spokeshaves 025.jpg


So i was always told to hold your tools in fine fettle and i`m not going to argue with that but on most spokeshaves you have a cap holding every thing down and yet the very spokeshave that I like the best has just a screw holding the iron down. I really don't know what to make of that.
spokeshaves 007.jpg


I went looking on you tube to see if I could find a link to show what I was talking about there was plenty on fetteling the spokeshave but I could only find one that I would recommend and that was by Garrett Hack I`v never seen him before but it was obvious the guy knew what he was doing.If you look closely you can see he only uses the forefinger on his right hand if it works for him that's OK by me its what ever works that counts. strange that he likes using the adjustable mouth.
Any way enjoy the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahfcXH6Io3o
 

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Very nice post and useful photos. I've never seen/used a 53 - I'll keep my eye out for one as they look good (but I'm hanging on to my low-angle ones for now!!). I guess that adjusting the size of the mouth also adjusts the 'natural angle of repose' of the tool on the workpiece as the two parts of the tool ahead of and behind the blade move to slightly different relative positions. Cheers, W2S
 
GLFaria":3582sh33 said:
Thanks a lot, Billy, for a most instructive post.

G.
Your welcome sir.

W2S yes you quite right moving the mouth does adjust the angle that the iron comes into contact with the work piece but ever so small, with the front of the tool touching the piece and the mouth closed up you can remove really small whispers of wood. Only the front of the mouth moves just like a adjustable mouth on a block plane, when you loosen the thumb screw on the top two springs push the mouth open. Take a look at the pic.



As for keeping you low angle spokeshaves well if it works for you that's all that counts.
I see the 53`s on flea bay they go from a fiver up to about a tenner about the only thing you have to watch is that the springs are not broken and that there is some meat left on the iron.
 

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Woody2Shoes":isqhvc40 said:
Very nice post and useful photos. I've never seen/used a 53 - I'll keep my eye out for one as they look good

Neither had I until I read this thread. I went to my local car boot sale on the way to work this morning and had a choice of three, all in excellent condition, for just £3. :D
 
Useful and interesting tutorial on the spokeshane Billy. I am just starting into the realms of hand tool woodworking. As yet the spokeshave has not featured greatly in my endeavours, however your instuction has given me the inspiration to have a go soon.

Much appreciated.

David
 
Thanks for your thoughts on how and why to hold them - I must confess I have never given it any thought whatsoever, which possibly explains some of my results - I've just given mine a sharpen and will do some thinking for a change!

Cheerio,

Carl
 
Thanks indeed! I'm going to practise a bit too!

I've put a lot of work in my 53 which was heavilly worn lobsided. Then, when I was almost finished, I blew it on cleaning the threads of the blade holding screw. Oh well, now it is featuring an ugly big M8 screw.
 

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