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spindle moulder speeds.

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johnnyb

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I've got an scm t40n its 3 kw three phase. I've recently acquired a 150 by 60 aluminium rebate block. it looks huge. is it unsuitable for my 4hp spindle? also its 2 knife. what speed is best. mine has 6000 and 8000 also 2 slower cant remember which.
jb
 

doctor Bob

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johnnyb":3qhjkrig said:
I've got an scm t40n its 3 kw three phase. I've recently acquired a 150 by 60 aluminium rebate block. it looks huge. is it unsuitable for my 4hp spindle? also its 2 knife. what speed is best. mine has 6000 and 8000 also 2 slower cant remember which.
jb
It should have a max spin stamped on it, about 7000-7500 i'd imagine.
I have a biggun :lol: I run it at 6k.
4hp and a t40n will spin it up fine.
 

Trevanion

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Like Bob said, a 4hp motor will spin up that aluminium block absolutely no problem at all and it will run at 6000RPM with no issue provided the block is in good condition and there isn't anything to throw off the balance. My little 2hp Kity 623 Moulder (Which is an absolute little trooper by the way despite its hobbyish appearance) can just about run up a solid steel 125mm x 50mm rebate block which weighs about 5KG, I wouldn't be surprised that your ally block is probably about half the weight.
 

johnnyb

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cheers for that given me a bit of confidence. its brand new secondhand trend supplied by wealden. just need to buy some insert as it came without. I also got an omas art170 t and g set. it's much more complicated than it sounds tbh! it a several cutters with shims that allow you to make t a nd g also vee on different thicknesses of plank using appropriate thicknesses of t and g.
also got an adjustable groove 4-15mm
 

clogs

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call me old fashion'd but I'll only use STEEL blocks on my spindle moulders.....
4-5hp Sicar....429 Kitty (it's just a toy for the small stuff)
 

Trevanion

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frank horton":1momer5w said:
call me old fashion'd but I'll only use STEEL blocks on my spindle moulders.....
4-5hp Sicar....429 Kitty (it's just a toy for the small stuff)
I also quite like steel, steel has a lot more inertia which means it will take more load to bog it down once it's up to speed, but this also means it takes more power to get the machine up to speed and it will take a longer time to come to a complete stop. Aluminium is the opposite, it's easier to start the machine up and it'll stop quicker but it has little inertia to keep a cut from bogging down, but realistically if you're bogging the machine down you're taking too heavy of a cut anyway. In theory a steel block would be stronger and more durable than an aluminium one but I've never seen one like an aluminium Euro block or rebate block that had been worn out by use.
 

doctor Bob

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frank horton":2tbwmbkp said:
call me old fashion'd but I'll only use STEEL blocks on my spindle moulders.....
4-5hp Sicar....429 Kitty (it's just a toy for the small stuff)
I used to have this thinking, then I moved into the 21st century, nowt wrong with alloy blocks, no difference whatsoever.
I have 20-30 blocks mixture of alloy and steel, never even enters my head when I use them as to what they are made of.
 

Trevanion

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doctor Bob":ckba7ff6 said:
I have 20-30 blocks mixture of alloy and steel, never even enters my head when I use them as to what they are made of.
Where I used to work we had two 9-degree cill blocks for some reason, one that was steel and one was alloy, I'd always pick up the alloy one because it wasn't such a task to carry about! :lol:
 
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