Spindle Moulder Scribe And Mould Cutters

[pollys13]

I'd say it's defo an advantage if you can learn to efficiently scribe by hand. Even though I've got a tenoner with scriber, sometimes particularly for a small job it's not worth the hassle setting it up. Strange thing is, it's also really enjoyable fitting them by hand

Coley

OLK thanks Coley.

 

[PAC1]

What about cutting the scribes by hand from blanks? Or perhaps someone on the forum has one of those ( Ville? ) machines for that can make the scribes from blanks?

Making your own scribing cutters is not an easy job and usually involves trial and error and also requires you to have a good knowledge of cutter design and structural engineering. You do not want the tip of a scribing cutter breaking. You also have to make the limiters which for scribes is more difficult than normal limiters. My approach is if it is 1 to 5 windows or doors then I cut them by hand. 5 to 10 is marginal and so depends if I think I may repeat the style in the future. Above 10 I would happily pay Whitehill to make them for me using their CNC and geometric software. Obviously if it is a style that is going to be your standard then it is worth buying the set in any event.

 

[pollys13]

Thanks again people

 

[pollys13]

The traditional way of making what you desire in the hand tool era was to mitre the profiles and make square tennon shoulders.
I was talking to an old boy time served joiner about 18 months ago at my woodcarving class. We were chatting about doors and he mentioned I think he called it a Masons mitre. Is this the cut you are talking about?
Thanks.

 

[ColeyS1]

Masons mitre are a kind of bodge for people who don't wanna do it properly. Kind of like making a frame with square edges then running around with a router afterwards to give it a moulding detail. It has its uses, just generally considered an after thought imho

Coley

 

[deema]

I believe the traditional pre-power tool way of doing scribed tenons was to cut the profile of the profile into the end of the part that's tenoned for about 1/2" from the edge on either side by hand using carving chisels, and then to remove the profile on the mortise piece of stuff in between. It's actually fairly quick to do, and for one offs is probably quicker than setting up a machine. This creates the joint allowing for expansion and contraction without an unsightly gap appearing which can occur if the profiles are mitred together.

 

[woodcarver]

This is a similar problem to mine.
I have a small spindle, that wouldn’t take large tenon disks.
The bulk of Tenon’s could be cut with a router, radial arm , band saw or what ever.
But achieving scribes without more specialist kit is more difficult.
Would it be possible to use the scribes whithill make for the 3rd head Sedgewick cutter block, and run scribes on spindle moulder after cutting the main tenon and shoulders by one of the other means above ?

 

[pollys13]

Earlier in this thread, katellwood said, " At one time Axi supplied a cutter that cut both the scribe and mould (i have a pair and they work great) the cutter was inverted through 180 degrees in the block to switch from scribe to mould. However to scribe for house doors you will need a block and spindle shaft that facilitates cutting over the top of the block. "
I've seen those rebating heads which have a recess on top to allow the tenon to pass over the top.
katellwood said he would take a photo and post but not seen it yet. The first block he refers to sounds like a vari angle chamfer block