Hi , I have an old spindal moulder made by Styzack and sons of London and just cant seem to get it set up right . I have put a new cutter block in it so that part is ok . Does anyone know of a mobile tool setter upper ? :lol:
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woodshavings
Established Member
Hi JFC,
the real issue with the spindle moulder is ensuring the guards are effective and the workpiece is held against the fence and the depth of cut adjusted correctly. Do you have the guards and fence assembly?
A SM is not very forgiving - if you take to large an initial cut, it can launch your workpiece into orbit!!
John
the real issue with the spindle moulder is ensuring the guards are effective and the workpiece is held against the fence and the depth of cut adjusted correctly. Do you have the guards and fence assembly?
A SM is not very forgiving - if you take to large an initial cut, it can launch your workpiece into orbit!!
John
The main problem is ive had to make a new fence because the old cast one wouldnt allow for a new (Legal) block . The guy that had it before me used the french cutters in it and i didnt like the idea of that . :lol:
It seems no matter what fence i make up the moulder just doesnt like what ever i put thro it so im thinking maybe the spindal is off line .
Although it was ok with the french cutters . Ive gone down to 0.5mm cuts and it still doesnt like it .
Just a thought ...... it is limiter then cutter isnt it ?
It seems no matter what fence i make up the moulder just doesnt like what ever i put thro it so im thinking maybe the spindal is off line .
Although it was ok with the french cutters . Ive gone down to 0.5mm cuts and it still doesnt like it .
Just a thought ...... it is limiter then cutter isnt it ?
woodshavings
Established Member
No, cutter then limiter - at least that how I use it!
John
John
Most euro blocks have a trailing limiter followed by a leading cutter, you cant fit the blades in the other way.
Like this, block is rotating anti clockwise when viewed from the top.
When you say it does not like it do you mean the motor stalls or you get a bad finish.
If you couldn't fit the block in the old fence have you increased the cutting diameter thereby reducing the mechanical advantage of the gearing, what dia block are you using a smaller dia block may help.
Jason
Like this, block is rotating anti clockwise when viewed from the top.
When you say it does not like it do you mean the motor stalls or you get a bad finish.
If you couldn't fit the block in the old fence have you increased the cutting diameter thereby reducing the mechanical advantage of the gearing, what dia block are you using a smaller dia block may help.
Jason
Just a bad finish , more so on oak than mahogany ... well meranti that is quite soft . All the cutters are new so its not that and the limiters are smaller than the cutters so have it set as ......
Limiter =bevel to the feeding timber
Cutter = Flat cutting edge to the feeding timber
Thats how it shows it set up in every mag ive seen , is this the problem ?
Limiter =bevel to the feeding timber
Cutter = Flat cutting edge to the feeding timber
Thats how it shows it set up in every mag ive seen , is this the problem ?
P.S
The block is the same size as what came with the machine just a new one with the pins and a space for the limiters . So ive not changed anything there .
The block i have i can put in limiter or cutter either way if i turn them round but im sure i have that part right .
But then ive been known to be wrong .
The block is the same size as what came with the machine just a new one with the pins and a space for the limiters . So ive not changed anything there .
The block i have i can put in limiter or cutter either way if i turn them round but im sure i have that part right .
But then ive been known to be wrong .
Set-up sounds fine to me, my spindle gives a better finish on oak than a router with a deep cut over the full 40mm profile, the motor slows if the cut is too big. They can be put the other way round, it just means the cutting edge is facing backwards.
Is there any play in the spindle shaft, but that would also show up with the old cutters.
Assume the bore in the block is OK for the old spindle diameter :?:
Jason
Is there any play in the spindle shaft, but that would also show up with the old cutters.
Assume the bore in the block is OK for the old spindle diameter :?:
Jason
The bore is fine and no change in the motor speed no matter what i do , this is a real 1950s solid machine . Dont make em like they used to .
maybe the speed is to slow but then it would slow more if if fed timber into it and there is no sign of that .
No pics at the mo im afraid but ill get onto that .
maybe the speed is to slow but then it would slow more if if fed timber into it and there is no sign of that .
No pics at the mo im afraid but ill get onto that .
Finally got someone round to take a look at the spindal moulder and it seems there was a nut missing on the motor housing . Also by losing the limiters :shock: im getting a better cut .
I had a go at making my own moulds from some cutter blanks i had today , i tried it with the clarke version of the dremmel and it took a while but i got there . the main problem with this is how to get the honing angle on the back of the cutting edge . Does anyone have any tips on making my own cutters please
I had a go at making my own moulds from some cutter blanks i had today , i tried it with the clarke version of the dremmel and it took a while but i got there . the main problem with this is how to get the honing angle on the back of the cutting edge . Does anyone have any tips on making my own cutters please
Fax a sketch of the moulding off to one of the firms that will grind the profile in a day or two is the easiest method
I've only done it once and managed on a bench grinder with the rest set at the correct angle but the profile was not that intricate.
Jason
I've only done it once and managed on a bench grinder with the rest set at the correct angle but the profile was not that intricate.
Jason
On another spindle moulding note ...... i've just looked thro the Record tooling range catalogue and cant seem to find a cutter for making an ovolo mould for 44mm thick doors or a cutter doing the glazed part of the door ( ovolo and rebate ) I thought this sort of cutter would be their best seller .
Grrrr theres always a catch eh . I bought a 50mm block rather than the 40mm thinking this will do most jobs . Wont my 50 mm block take a 55 mm cutter ? from memory i thought there next block up from the 50mm was a super block but i could be wrong .
You mean the traditional window cutter ? Thats good for the glazed part but shame they don't do ( or i cant see it) a cutter that allows for the lower part of the door to take raised and fielded panels . Still i cant moan as i would have been doing all this on the router before :lol:
ProShop
Established Member
Have a look at Whitehill, they do window frame & door stile cutters inc scribes, Tenons, draught seal cutters, water drip etc, etc.
