Some more shop made saws

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Klaus Kretschmar

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Stuttgart, Germany
Hello Friends of hand tools.

As in Pedders thread mentioned, I want to show a few more pics of saws, Pedder and me have made. We know us since about 1,5 years and since about 1 year we make saws in teamwork. Pedder, a really nice guy, takes the main part because he is responsible for the blades. His skills in toothing and sharpening saw blades are amazing. I never were able to do that with his perfection. My part are the handles.

When we began in February 2009, Pedder retoothed vintage saw blades (most were Spear & Jackson) and used the original spines. In these days we had not the possibility to make own spines. I rehandeled some of those blades. A pic from the beginning:

CIMG0910.JPG


There are a Tenon saw with a closed Mahogany handle, a Carcass saw with a closed Pear handle and 4 Dovetail saws with handles out of Wenge, Zebrawood and Bubinga.

The Wenge handeled Dovetail in the front of the pic is one of our first completely shop made saws. It has a home made brass spine. After taking the barrier of making own spines, we decided to make completely own saws. It was exiting!

We began with Dovetail saws and tested a few handle shapes and timbers.

CIMG1142.JPG


Pear handle and heavy spine (25 x 6 mm)

CIMG1145.JPG


Bubinga handle and heavy spine

CIMG1153.JPG


Wenge handle with MOP inlay and heavy spine


CIMG1285.JPG



CIMG1295.JPG


Pear handle with MOP inlay and heavy spine

large+Pear+w.+MOP.JPG


The next step was to reach a more filigrane and elegant design on a very little saw. At first a pic you can see both designs to realize the differences.

CIMG1483.JPG


The filigrane design recommends a downsized spine. Several attempts showed, that a heavy spine helps to do the cut but a less heavy saw is more versatile. That is as we think a question of personal taste. Pedder prefers the heavy saws, I like the versatility of the less heavy ones.

Together with the other handle design we tested another spine design which is -as we think- unique. The spine is filed oval outside of the handle. Only the small part inside the handle maintains the square cross section.

Here with an Ebony handle.

CIMG1079.JPG



CIMG1082.JPG


Some more pics of 2 Ebony handeled saws


CIMG1218.JPG


CIMG1219.JPG


The next pic shows that the spine is flush mounted to the top and to the front of the cheeks


CIMG1221.JPG


An attempt with another design was done. It´s a copy of the Kenyon Dovetail saw from the Seaton tool chest. The handle is out of American Walnut


Kenyon+Am.+Walnut.JPG


CIMG1316.JPG


Spine and blade of this saw are tapered

CIMG1302.JPG


Then we found a timber I like very much. It´s indeed my favourite wood for Dovetail saw handles: Plum tree


CIMG1400.JPG



CIMG1469.JPG



CIMG1470.JPG


Another saw was made which combines the filigrane handle and a heavy spine, the handle is Wenge

CIMG1526.JPG


CIMG1528.JPG


CIMG1530.JPG


CIMG1535.JPG


After making a few Dovetail saws we wanted to try other types too. A large Tenon saw with Maple handle and a pic of that handle

CIMG1476.JPG


CIMG1477.JPG


CIMG1342.JPG


A Panel saw (cross cut) with an American Walnut handle (not finished yet)

CIMG1560.JPG


And a pic while making this handle

CIMG1516.JPG


At last a pic of a closed Wenge handle I made for a German woodworking friend as a replacement handle. Not sure if I like it.

CIMG0962.JPG


There is another Carcass saw we made for Waka. He showed it already in this forum.

I hope you enjoyed the little foto session about our saw making during the last year.

Klaus
 
Thanks for showing them Klaus - fantastic looking saws!

What do you use for the finish?

Rod
 
Excellent, thanks Klaus. Each and everyone is impeccable. Really inspiring stuff.
 
Klaus, and indeed Pedder too,

I am always in awe of anyone who can apply dedication to an apparently narrow area of interest. Those saws a truly beautiful.

Gentlemen I take my hat off to you, in deference.

Xy Mosian
 
Klaus (and Pedder) - some beautiful work there. I find it extremely warming that someone from this side of the Atlantic can make quality handsaws, as I was beginning to think the Americans had the market cornered.

Keep up the good work.

Ed
 
hi klaus , pedder .

what can i say excellent quality saws , i'm amazed "wow". Gents i take my hat off to you both , i love the ebony saws , thank you for taking the time to show us all these saws . hc =D> =D> =D>
 
Oh my god.

I come out of the garage practising my joints and walk into this post!

My handsaw slope just detoured into a black-run!

Pedder and Klaus they are some of the nicest looking saws anywhere. If they cut half as well as they look you guys have to be onto a winner!

I love the pear handle, lovely colour. Is it wrong that I want a bigger version of this picture for a desktop? probably :)

CIMG1145.JPG


I think I'm with Pedder on liking heavy saws best. I find it much easier to start a cut with the tenon saw opposed to the carcass saw for example. I also like a straight back and blade opposed to the tapered ones you show. As you say, all a matter of choice and that's what makes your saws so special.
 
Klaus and Pedder...as others have said...absolute works of art!!

These masterpieces are heirloom quality and I am now frantically saving up to get one.

I started out with some preferences in the type of wood...pear was my first choice too..and the along came plum...and then the ebony...OMG what a choice...

I am going to bed tonight with an immense feeling of happiness as I witness this evolution of dedicated handcrafted master work.

One question...

Some of the transitions between handle and steel/brass...look VERY thin...

I can see that you have cut the stock beautifully Klaus in making sure that the strongest straightest grain is parallel to the stress points but even so...some of those transitions are frighteningly delicate.

I experienced the same problem with quality one-piece guitar neck/headstock transitions....

Gibson and Takamine are (in)famous for making this from one piece of stock. Hugely wasteful and although beautifully sleek...the point of much upset when a guitar is dropped and the headstock sheers even with parallel grain at the angular transition. I always repair this with a scarf joint and/or a veneer graft...

Looking at the saws...take this one for instance:

CIMG1528.JPG


the transition point is very thin indeed and the grain is superbly positioned in the cutting of the stock but is it really strong? Also as you move back down to the hand part of the handle...the grain is perpendicular to the edge and very straight...have you had instances where this can sheer here with the push and pull stresses?

I am in no way criticising these masterpieces...rather asking in awe at the sleekness and how you achieve mechanical strength at the same time.

Jim
 
Harbo":hhj8gwzb said:
What do you use for the finish?

Rod

First of all: Many Thanks to all posters. Your comments make me feel fine :) .

Rod, the finish depends on the used timber. Hard and dense wood like Pear, Plum or Maple will be just sanded, oiled and waxed with carnauba. The Pear gets a coat of red and blue pigmented oil to support that it keeps it´s wonderful colour.

The open grained timbers like Wenge or Walnut or Mahogany get several coats of shellac while sanding to close the grain.

The Ebony causes extra efforts. The timber is so dense that I sand it up to grain 1200 before it gets polished. There is a remarkable difference between the usual end grit 400 and 1200 on this timber.

Klaus
 
jimi43":1nw48i27 said:
One question...

Some of the transitions between handle and steel/brass...look VERY thin...

I can see that you have cut the stock beautifully Klaus in making sure that the strongest straightest grain is parallel to the stress points but even so...some of those transitions are frighteningly delicate.

I experienced the same problem with quality one-piece guitar neck/headstock transitions....

Gibson and Takamine are (in)famous for making this from one piece of stock. Hugely wasteful and although beautifully sleek...the point of much upset when a guitar is dropped and the headstock sheers even with parallel grain at the angular transition. I always repair this with a scarf joint and/or a veneer graft...

Looking at the saws...take this one for instance:

CIMG1528.JPG


the transition point is very thin indeed and the grain is superbly positioned in the cutting of the stock but is it really strong? Also as you move back down to the hand part of the handle...the grain is perpendicular to the edge and very straight...have you had instances where this can sheer here with the push and pull stresses?

I am in no way criticising these masterpieces...rather asking in awe at the sleekness and how you achieve mechanical strength at the same time.

Jim

Hello Jim,

thanks for your comment. Indeed Pedder and me didn´t "calculate" the thickness of the transition between grip and cheeks. It´s a design just like we think it´s possible to be elegant and although strong enough. Indeed we had no handle break yet concerning the transition. We had only one break of the grip but that was caused by the bad piece of Walnut which was used.

If you watch the Kenyon style handle, you can see that the thickness of the transition is comparable to our others. That handle was sized exactly as the original which has survived more than 200 years :) .

But there is another point: as long as Pedder and me are able to make saws together, every user of one of our saws will get the full support which includes a rehandling in the case of a handle break without charge.

Klaus
 
Klaus Kretschmar":7kunhnt6 said:
Harbo":7kunhnt6 said:
What do you use for the finish?

Rod

The Pear gets a coat of red and blue pigmented oil to support that it keeps it´s wonderful colour.

Rubbish! Not the Pear gets the pigmented oil, that were damaged in a sudden! It´s the Plum which gets one or two coats of pigmented oil.

Klaus
 
Do you sell these? I need a saw for cutting frets on guitars. Rather smallish saw with a kerf of .57 mm. I need it to work with this jig

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdpr...retting&NameProdHeader=Manual+Slotting+System

There is a video on that link which will show you exactly how it works. I would rather have a handle like the ones you make then the simple one that comes with the jig.

PM me if this is something you can do.
 
Klaus, they are stunning 8) People are going to go mad for those . Enjoy what leasure time you have now because I can see you and Pedder becoming extremely busy :D
 
Hopefully i'll be getting one made. Crossing my fingers

Edit: I've just received a message, we are going get one made!!! very excited these saws are the first saws I've seen that i could justify spending this kind of money on.

Thanks Klaus and Pedder!

Their names have a nice ring too!
 
woodsworth":1167hn6j said:
Hopefully i'll be getting one made. Crossing my fingers

Edit: I've just received a message, we are going get one made!!! very excited these saws are the first saws I've seen that i could justify spending this kind of money on.

Thanks Klaus and Pedder!

Their names have a nice ring too!

I think they are beautiful, that to me is art. You are very fortunate.

Mick
 

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