So close, and yet so far. Norris woes...

[TFrench]

Friend of mine turned up this evening with a couple of planes for me, he knows I collect old tools and I help him out where I can. Pays to be nice to people! One was a Stanley 75 and the other was a nice looking infill plane. Got it into the light, saw Norris cast into the cap. Much excitement. Unfortunately someone has managed to crack the end off the iron, you can see where they have tried to glue it back on!
So, my question to the hive mind: do I risk trying to weld it and see if it works or do I epoxy it and put it on the shelf and be happy with it looking pretty? Third option would possibly be to see if I could get a new cap - they must be available for people making infill kits?

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[MikeG.]

I'd weld and grind that, personally, because you always retain the option of getting a new cap. It can't work glued together, but it could work welded. It isn't easy welding cast iron, so you're best finding someone confident they can do it, rather than just having a go with a MIG.

 

[AndyT]

If you don't want to get into welding, ready made lever caps are available, just - search my posts for Bristol Design and give them a ring.
Alternatively, look at posts by the much missed Richard Tomes (Richard T) to see how to make one from a lump of bronze, with a lot of filing.

 

[Trevanion]

So, my question to the hive mind: do I risk trying to weld it and see if it works or do I epoxy it and put it on the shelf and be happy with it looking pretty? Third option would possibly be to see if I could get a new cap
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Personally, I would get someone to TIG weld it back together properly (With the right rods, not nickel rod). If you braze it will just pop as soon as you tighten down the screw and if you try to weld it with a MIG or Stick it will not weld well at all.

You may be lucky and be able to find an original lever cap as they do appear from time to time but are very scarce, it would probably be better to buy a knackered plane with a decent lever cap for the right price. I have no idea where you could get a brand new one but I suspect they can be had from somewhere.

 

[TFrench]

Personally, I would get someone to TIG weld it back together properly (With the right rods, not nickel rod).

I have got some special stick rods for welding cast - with pre heat I'm hopeful I could get it to stick.
Good to hear new caps are available - always nice to have a back up plan!
I've gotten it apart now without the pivot screws turning the screw slot out, bonus! I did think the hex head blade clamp was a bodge, but it actually has a brass pressure pad brazed onto the bottom so I think it's original.

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[Sheffield Tony]

If you can find/make something that fits, why not set the original aside whilst you think on it, or until you find someone who can do a pukka job of the weld, if you have any doubt ?

 

[Trevanion]

I did think the hex head blade clamp was a bodge, but it actually has a brass pressure pad brazed onto the bottom so I think it's original.

I'm no expert on Norris planes but I think they did use Hex head screws at some point, I've seen quite a few with them anyway. Possibly they used them on the lower end all-iron planes? It's a tool I've always wanted to own but I've never been brave enough to cough up the dough for one.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

I'm no expert on infill planes, either; however, given Norris' usual bronze screw cap and thumbscrew, was the cast iron with a hex screw a wartime austerity version? That would go with the side cheeks of the back infill being omitted, too.

Given the load imposed on the screw cap nose when the screw is tightened, getting any repair to hold in cast iron will be very difficult without some mechanical joint, I think - maybe two or three dowels. That's quite a lot of fiddly, precise work, and in components that are not that easy to hold for a machine tool operation.

Maybe it might be pragmatic to keep the original cap, but make a 'working' replacement so that the plane can at least be made servicable, depending on whether it cleans up well and the blade and cap-iron are good.