sliding table 5 cut

[RorieT]

Hi folks,

I have a new AW10 table saw with sliding side table.

Today i have been trying to conduct the 5 cut method to square up the rail on the sliding table, but having a nightmare!

After conducting the calculations, i had to move the rail back around 0.3mm. This was done using feeler gauge. But when i re-checked with a second 5 cut, i calculated that rather than needing a smaller change (or perhaps in the other direction), i had to move it back by a further 0.5mm!

I have done countless 5-cuts now and getting nowhere, so clearly doing something wrong. So my questions:

-Does the set up of the table its self matter? Could this be causing the problems?
-can somebody confirm where the pivot point is?
- do i conduct this test the same way as all the sled examples online?
- does the distance (width /thickness) of the rail from the pivot its self make a difference?

I'm wondering if the calculation is a little different as the bar pivots in a different place than the sleds? Currently i am using the vertical pin as my pivot point….

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

The set up of the table matters, absolutely. If the table is not running parallel to he sawblade, throughout the travel, no amount of pivoting the fence will compensate for making a square cut.

I would take off the fence for now and ascertain if the mitre slot in the table is parallel with the saw blade. If so,use it as a reference to check the crosscut table is running parallel to it, throughout the travel. Adjust the beam using the mounting brackets until the table moves in alignment to the mitre slot. When it does, the fence can be set at 90 deg to the blade and the cut will be true.

Mike.

 

[RorieT]

hmm, sounds like that may be the issue then! I'll have another play about with that tomorrow.

When it comes to the 5-cut check, what do you think about the pivot point etc? Am i doing it right?

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

I'm sure your 5 cut technique will be fine, once the table is travelling along the rail perfectly parallel to the blade. However, I have never needed to use that particular method. All the setup is done once the table is truly aligned, so setting the fence off a combination square set along the blade plate (avoiding teeth) has always worked to get a true 90 deg crosscut and obviously set with a bevel for other angles. As I said, if your mitre slot is parallel to the blade, use it as a reference to set the edge of the sliding table correctly. A combination square is good for this; fence resting in the mitre slot and a rule projection touching one corner of the sliding table at the front of the machine, then again at the back of the machine. Adjust the beam till the measurement is exactly the same front and back. Then fit the crosscut fence, set it at 90 to the blade with the square and cut a board. It should be spot on, but if a touch out, move the fence accordingly and cut again, check for square and if it is, set the fence stop, if it has one and all is good. You cannot cut an accurate crosscut if the table does not traverse parallel to the blade, so it will be a waste of time and frustrating doing a 5 cut test, over and over, as this does not indicate the problem or provide a correction. Hope this helps.

Mike.

PS if the mitre slot is not parallel to your blade, rip a longish piece of MDF or something and clamp that to the saw, ensuring it is lightly touching the fully raised blade. Use that as a reference to set the sliding table as above.

 

[Halo Jones]

I have only used the 5 point technique with my cross cut sled. Here the pivot point was on the opposite side of the blade from the adjustment point and these are both about 60 cm away from each other. I can see you set-up being more tricky because the pivot point is relative close to the blade and I assume that your adjustment point is also very close to the pivot point? I'm jsut not sure how to set things up to stack things in your favour!