Sliding sash window front lining cut out

[Doug71]

On sliding sash windows people sometimes cut a curve out of the front lining where it meets the cill to stop the water getting trapped behind it. I sometimes do it if it's a modern place but tend to normally work on older buildings so I stick with the traditional look as I prefer it.

I am about to make a few sash windows for a customer and wondered if people thought the cut out was worth doing as I think it spoils the look?

Thanks, Doug

 

[RobinBHM]

I have to say, Ive never done a cut out....

I have sometimes stuck a small wedge behind the front facing so there isnt a water trap.

 

[RossJarvis]

These were present on some windows I worked on last year. These were about 10 years old and hadn't stopped rot getting in to the joints. As you say they don't look right either. They're also hard to clean out and repaint. If you look at the other sash window thread of recent days, following Jacob's advice and painting with Linseed oil based paints may be a better option.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

I'd leave it off because it's one piece of end grain that will always get wet and unless you repaint every year it will allow water into the front casing

 

[ColeyS1]

I usually cut em out- just set the rebate block up and push the ends in. The wedge idea is a good one

Coley

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[scholar]

Good question that I have been thinking about in my painfully slow rebuilding of Victorian sash windows in our house.

The originals do not have the cut out and other comments suggest that it is a modern innovation.

I spend a lot o ftime in Cornwall and have noticed that many apparently original sash windows have this cut out, so I wonder whether it is more of a regional variation than a recent innovation, I don't know.

I am not sure which I prefer looks-wise. I would need to check on the windows at home, but I think that the extent to which the lining projects beyond the (stone) window opening is very small, whereas the windows I have looked at in Cornwall have more of the front face of the lining showing.

The one reason I have been considering following the cut out method is that on the pitifully few newly restored (and beautifully painted) windows I have done, I have noticed a build up of dust and grime in the corner behind the lining - I figured that the cut out would avoid this happening.

Two questions from earlier comments

I have sometimes stuck a small wedge behind the front facing so there isnt a water trap.

I am not quite sure how this would go - presumably shaped to sit on the slope of the cill, with the top level front to back and sloping in towards the middle?

I'd leave it off because it's one piece of end grain that will always get wet and unless you repaint every year it will allow water into the front casing

I am not quite sure of the point here - is it suggested that the cut out is made or not? The way I see it:

- if the cut out is made, then the end grain of the cut out is in free air, so should not suffer unduly. Of course the cut out in the lining needs to run right to the bottom with a correspondingly smaller housing in the front of the cill.

- if the cut out is not made, then a wider section of the lining runs all the way to the bottom of the cill and yes that could become a weak point, if not properly maintained.

Would be interested to hear any further explanation.

Cheers

 

[Doug71]

Thanks for your thoughts and opinions, have decided not to go with the cut outs on these windows.

Thinking about it the sashes will be hung on spring balances so there should really be one of those metal travel stops at the bottom anyway, maybe I could make a wooden one with an angle on top so the water runs off similar to Robins wedge idea?

Coley, great idea about using the spindle moulder to cut the curve when needed, never thought of that, thank you.

Doug

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You could cut them tidily with a forstner. I (in Cornwall ) haven't seen a box frame in any of my previous house that hasn't rotted in those corners, so I wouldn't even consider not having cutouts. If you have even the slightest run in the frame, one corner or the other will hold water. You can of course have a straight 45 degree bevel - no law says it should be curved.

 

[ColeyS1]

Coley, great idea about using the spindle moulder to cut the curve when needed, never thought of that, thank you.

Doug

My pleasure Doug. It definitely speeds up the process !-Obviously leave em long just to be sure though
Coley



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