sliding mitre saw...A NO NO?

[woodbloke]

Never used one, don't intent to ever get one, can't see the point as a static tool in a 'shop. However, excellent site tool, which is what they're primarily for (IMO) - Rob

 

[gidon]

Well best advice I guess then is ... look at the user manual for your saw!
I've forgotten what the original question was!
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Niall]

My Makita manual says push is the only way permissable.

In this thread:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... p?p=181017
Scrit clearly supports push.

 

[big soft moose]

Ive never had a problem with a sliding mitre saw , okay yes one slip and you could remove something vital , but that goes equally for table saws, bandsaws, router tables, chainsaws etc etc

so long as you folow the golden rule " keep yon fingers away from the spinny bit" i cant see a sliding mitre being anymore dangerous than anything else.

 

[FrCollins]

Good debate, as someone who almost lost his arm on a radial arm saw some years ago and has still got the scars to prove it. I am firmly in the camp that suggests pushing! I really rate the new types of mitre saws out there but would not use a radial arm saw under any circumstances.

SAW SAFE - FRCOLLINS

 

[Derek Willis.]

A sliding mitre saw takes the place of a radial arm saw in the workshop, and does not take up a lot of room.
Derek.

 

[Benchwayze]

Sliding Mitre Saw?

Find out which way the blade turns; towards you or away. Visualise the stock beneath the saw as it is. Then, in your mind's eye, flip the whole lot over, and figure out which way matches the action of a normal table saw. You'll have the answer. 'Push or Pull'? Then RTFM in case I have oversimplified things.

 

[Shultzy]

If you look at the action of a hand held circular saw the action of the blade pulls the wood into the sole plate. This is because it has a a positive rake blade. If the same blade was used in a SMCS it would pull the wood up from the bed. This is why I think its the negative rake teeth that allow the saw to be pushed into the wood, forcing it into the bed.

 

[skipdiver]

I have a radial arm saw in my workshop and use a SCMS on a daily basis at work.Never had a problem with the SCMS and i always push through the wood as you should.If cutting something large as in the 9x3's i was cutting recently,then several passes,nice and steady does the trick.Even more caution should be taken with wet or twisted/bent stock where the blade can bind.If i think there is a risk of this happening i pick up my hardpoint saw and use that.May take longer but not as long as it takes fingers to grow back.

Same can't be said for my radial arm saw.Had a couple of "bind" moments on that resulting in either the blade stopping completely or racing across the timber.Worst one was when i hit a hidden nail and a loud bang ensued followed by bits of shattered wood flying about.It also put the saw totally out of true.Was very scary to an extent where i am getting rid and buying a second SCMS for the workshop.

Golden rule with all machinery:- if it doesn't "feel" right,then don't do it.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I used to have an old Elu RAS. It was good, but a pain to keep set true - there were no positive stops. It also took up quite a lot of space.

I sold it and bought an SCMS, thinking that I'd asve space.

Well it is accurate and stays true and I rarely miss the larger capacity of the RAS, but actually doesn't save me space at all. In fact I sometimes think it is more bulky because of the space requirements behind the saw, for the rails (unless you own a Kapex or a Ryobi(?) )

The other downside of an SCMS is the trenching facility - it's very poor at cutting stopped cuts like a tenon shoulder, for example.

To get back on topic, I have to confess I often pull the blade towards me. I should change my habits, I know.

S

 

[OPJ]

I used to have an old Elu RAS. It was good, but a pain to keep set true - there were no positive stops.

That's one of the great things about SCMS's - if something does go bang and knock it out of true, is quite simple to put things back again. If the same happens on a RAS though, it's just not as easy.

I like to clamp the timber in place not only for safety, but also for accuracy.

 

[FrCollins]

I'm in the trade a long time so this may seem a silly question as I am sure the answer is obvious, but I am finding it difficult to work out what the:C stands for in the:SCMS saws you are all discussing?

Someone please put me out of my misery!


Saw - Safe FRCOLLINS

 

[Setch]

Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

 

[Oryxdesign]

You can't easily lift the blade over the work with an RAS which means the blade has to cut on the pull and therefor it is necessary to use a different bade. Both have advantages and disadvantages.

Si

 

[neilyweely]

I think you'd be hard pushed to find a SCMS that is as consistently accurate as my RAS. Plus they look so cool on the work bench, don't they? I know it shouldn't matter, but it makes me feel like I know what I'm doing!!

TBH I also feel as it is so much sturdier it must be safer, as long as it is used properly

Neil