slicing the paper like mr sellers

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mac1012

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as some of you no doubt know I have posted on here in regards to the world of sharpening well today I had a go

a friend dropped some boxes of that he had kept in storage when I moved years ago , amonst the tools where some chisels that had rusted over no name on them but they looked half decent , cant even remember buying them , also there was a cheap double sided oil stone

so I squirted some 3 in one oil on the stones and had a go I go the back flat first and then had a go cleaning up the bevel on the rough stone and then sharpening some more on the smoother stone not for longed and it was pretty half assed as I was busy doing something else I tried to follow pauls technique on his video I have watched a few thousand times

I didn't want to put these chisels on my trend stone that's sat there doing nothing at moment :lol:

first go wasn't very successful but had another go and attempted the paper slice in the middle of sheet and it worked !! and did quite a long length at that 8)

cuts wood pretty good too !

so maybe I can do it , its just knives scorps and gouges that scare me now :lol:
 
Excellent stuff - and the even better news is that the more you do, the better you'll get.

I think you're right to use the word 'scare', in a way. Some things are built up to be difficult, and thus daunting to do for the first time. Sometimes, it's better to just pile in and have a go regardless, and you often find that once the first hurdle of starting is cleared, you're up and running, and it isn't so difficult after all. I gather the Welsh have a saying, "The hardest thing is to start". It's true.

On sharpening knives, there are so many Youtube videos on the subject that nothing I can say will add to them.

On scorps, I've never sharpened one, so this is a more general point - sometimes it's easier to hold the tool still and move the stone across it. If you hold the stone at one end and keep your fingers behind the cutting edge of the tool, the job should be safer. To clean up the inside of a curved tool, slipstones are good for small curves, but pieces of abrasive paper glued to shaped wooden 'files' (for want of a better description) would do well. Perhaps two or three grades, at least one being very fine for finishing would be handy. The same general idea could be used for larger in-cannel gouges, too.

For out-cannel gouges, there are two schools of thought. One is to hold and sharpen just like an ordinary chisel, but impart a gradual roll left and right as sharpening proceeds to cover the whole edge. The second school of thought is to apply the bevel of the gouge to the stone with the tool held at 90 degrees to the length of the stone, and 'roll' the edge as you move the tool up and down the stone. Both methods work - some people prefer one or the other, so a bit of experimenting is needed to see which suits you. In both cases, it's worth bearing in mind that the middle of the edge usually dulls more than the corners, but to avoid a misshapen edge, the whole edge must be abraded evenly. A visual check on edge shape now and again to see where you need to concentrate a bit more work is all that's needed, really. Like so many things, it soon becomes second nature. In either case, the last job is to take off the wire edge on the inside of the gouge with a fine slipstone, keeping it flat to the length of the gouge so as not to round the edge, in just the same way as you would with a chisel.
 
thanks chesirechappie for taking the time to reply , and yes I am one of those people that spend a lot of time thinking about starting and what could go wrong rather than having a go (hammer)

I appreciate your advice and I been picking bits up on here and looking at vids I seen one or two vids where they move the abrasive and keep the scorp still

I going to invest in a leather strop and prob the flexcut stroppiing kit hopefully I will have most things covered then :shock:

mark
 
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