Size of table saw blade?

[Presh]

Hi All,
At the beginning of my woodworking journey and just bought an Axminster TS250 table saw with 250 dia 40T General purpose blade. I'm looking for a better quality finer 80T blade. Will this machine take a 254dia blade or must I always stick with 250 dia? Thanks in advance of any responses.

 

[Mar_mite]

I'd say yes it will. My saw takes a 200 mm blade but I'm currently using a 205mm one. The only issue is that I can't drop the blade right down if I'm using the saw to stack stuff on.

 

[marcros]

You probably can. Take off the table insert and have a look in- saw unplugged obviously. Is there 3 or 4mm of clearance around the blade in all directions? For 254mm you only need 2mm so the chances are that it will fit.

 

[Presh]

Thanks guys. Saw arrives tomorrow so will check the inner clearances. Wanted to crack on with it straight away cutting MDF with a finer tooth saw but guess I'll have to wait and check first before parting with cash! Decent 80T blades are not cheap so don't want to get one thats just too big. Thanks again

 

[marcros]

If you fit the blade as job 1, you can get the fine tooth one on overnight and it will probably be here by the time you have assembled and commissioned the rest of the saw.

 

[Presh]

Well Marcros, I have to admit to raising an eyebrow at your use of the word 'commission' reference setting up an TS250 table saw but I've been at it 3hrs tonight and I've still some way to go! Just how critical and important is the level of the table relative to the sliding table etc? I've seen guys on the web (mostly Americans) using DTI's, vernier calipers and even feeler gauges on their saws but how close is 'good enough'? This is wood after all and not missile parts!!

 

[marcros]

I used a straight edge on my kity when I did it- I have a different saw now. It was a long spirit level with a milled edge. I don't recall having spent long doing it. I spent a little longer ensuring it was running parallel among its travel so that you got an accurate cut.

IIRC the sliding carriage should be a fraction above the main table- if it is low it is always going to bind. My kity was adjusted using shims for levels (probably washers I would think). 10 minute job to get it level if that, dost of that locating the right sized spanner. The kity carriage track was held by 4 bolt heads and thee was enough adjustment on these to get it parallel and at the correct height.

I said commissioning because at work we spend 10s of thousands of pounds having manufacturers install and setup machines each year, not that I have any involvement with this or the machines afterwards, but I do sometimes get involved with buying them. It was a bit tongue in cheek!

How is your track fixed to the supports? It is a very useful feature when set up if you have the space.

 

[jumps]

..... This is wood after all and not missile parts!!

ah but if the missile parts don't fit it only fails once, and can always be blamed on someone else

with wood you will be able to see the error for ever; or spend forever correcting it (hammer)

 

[Presh]

You were right Marcros, it definitely needs commissioning! The carriage track is connected to two cantilever steel brackets by four captive bolts with four further levelling bolts underneath and the cast carriage sits onto this and slides along the carriage track 'centralised' by rubber wheels. Levelling the carriage track and carriage has taken some time and there does not appear to be any means of ensuring that the carriage runs parallel to the table top other than it finding its natural line by the wheels. I'll take some more time to get 'right' but it's knowing just how far to go. Without investing in machined engineers straight-edges, feeler gauges and DTi gauges I'll get as accurate as I can. I guess the proof and acceptability is in the quality of the work output. Will keep cracking on. Thanks