SIP bandsaw tilt gauge adjustment??

[dave_87]

Hi all, I have a SIP 01364 bandsaw(quite old I believe), it works a treat but the table tilt gauge is off by a few degrees, does anyone know if it can be adjusted or would I need to have it done by a shop? if the latter, does anyone know of anywhere in the essex area to get it done?

Thanks,
Dave.

 

[Myfordman]

I dont know your particular saw but often either the scale or more often the datum pointer can be moved. However you are dealing with a far eastern import and especially early examples would have been put together in back street workshop with little quality control so there may be not a lot you can do other than write a label saying "add 2 degrees" or what ever.

 

[CHJ]

On my 14" SIP the scale pointer is attached with a screw and can be swung a degree or so either side.

Not that I use it other than for a very rough indicator for initial move as I use a digital angle gauge to check any adjustable table or surface.

One other thing to remember is that the angle relates to the blade path, this needs to be exactly at right angles to the table in the first place for the tilt calibration to be of any use.

Just moving the table may not produce the desired angle if the blade was not vertical to the surface for starters.

Also if using digital angle finders remember to take a datum reference of the 'flat & true' surface before moving anything.
Alternate is to check both blade and table to determine angle. (zero on blade)

 

[dave_87]

I was thinking of getting a digital angle gauge.
My predicament is, im making a drum shell from ash, I used a square to set the table and blade at 90deg, made a note of how far the gauge was off, set it to 10deg + the extra, cut all my pieces and when layed up they don't form a circle. I assume my "+ the extra" wasn't precise enough, can you recommend a good digital gauge... that doesn't cost the earth?
Dave.

 

[CHJ]

I use a GemRed product.

need to shop around, they can vary in pricing.

Not easy to get stave segments accurate enough straight off a bandsaw, may need to use a surface planer or at least fine tune with a hand plane.

 

[marcros]

i have the wixey version of that gauge.

 

[dave_87]

With the gemred, could I zero it against the blade then measure the angle of the table?

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[CHJ]

With the gemred, could I zero it against the blade then measure the angle of the table?

Yes within reason, depends upon blade width, you can use a strip of steel or wood taped or clamped to the blade to give you a better/wider reference spaced away from the teeth.

Another method is to make yourself an accurate angled template out of thick MDF, Plexiglas or similar and use that between the blade backing and the table, that way you are only looking for light gap alignment, not having to juggle test gauge whilst you tap/adjust table into position.
A digital angle finder is good for checking angle templates off a flat surface.

 

[dave_87]

Thanks, may have to add a gemred to the xmas list.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Late follow-up:

I have a SIP. It's generally pretty good, but the table tilt has always been approximate. This isn't helped by it being affected by the blade tension too. It's also important to be certain the table isn't distorted. It should be flat across the slot for blade changing, but I find the tension of the bolts holding the table to the trunnion (pivot) affects that too. Being fair, my table is stood off the trunnion a bit on hardwood risers, so as to make extra space underneath for dust extraction, but I find to get reliable squareness you have to check everything: blade-to-table, fence, blade tension, rollers, and where on the wheels the blade is running. Also, watch out for the throat plate. I make wooden inserts, and if they're not dead flat and flush with the table, they can upset a square if I use one to set the thing up.

I bought a Gem Red. I use it a lot, and it's really handy. For one thing you can stick it onto the blade (the GR is magnetic), and zero it there. Then stick it to the table instead to set it.

I'm not 100% convinced the Gem Red is accurate though. I've a sneaky feeling it sticks sometimes, as I've occasionally had strange results and needed several goes at it to get a reading that convinces me. It's way better than nothing though.

E.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Stavework is on of the most challenging aspects of woodwork, especially on a BS.
I've never done what you are attempting, but the fact that whatever tooling you have available, all errors are cumulative, I would suggest that it is virtually impossible to achive what you are hoping for, at least "off the machine".
For all the segmented circular work I have done (which isn't very much, I admit, but I have done some rather than none), I've glued up two halves and then surfaced each half before gluing the halves together.
If the diameter of the drum exceeds the width of your surface planer, I would glue two strips of sandpaper to a flat board and surface them that way. You should be able to get two halves that mate well.
Out of interest, how do you clamp up?

 

[dave_87]

I don't know what went wrong this time, I've done 4 before which came out nigh on perfect. Think I was just unlucky setting up this time, oh well live and learn, will get proper measuring tools and try again. Cheers all.

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