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Single phase bandsaw , on / off switch Rep,acement

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Kendle99

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My on /off switch to my Axminster single phase bandsaw is broken and they don't have a replacement as the bandsaw is too old . Everything has been checked and is in good order , including the 1 HP motor. Is it possible to fit another make of on / off switch ? Maybe put a plate over the existing switch housing ?
Great if anybody could help , as I have a very large " paper weight " in my workshop at the moment !!
 

Kendle99

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8 pegs , 6 were used . 3 blue and 3 brown . The other 2 had white wires soldered on to them .
 

Kendle99

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8 pegs on the original unit , 6 clip on wires , 3 brown and 3 blue . The other 2 have white wires soldered on to them .
 

Trevanion

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I’m guessing the white wires are for a door interlock so the machine can’t start when the door is open, you could probably do without that if you wanted but you can buy switches with extra terminals for interlocks.
 

guineafowl21

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NVR switches normally have labelled terminals -
13 and 23 - N and L in
14 and 24 - N and L out

A picture of the original switch and the new one would help. Does either have a mushroom stop button? It’s also possible your old switch was a repurposed 3 phase one.
 

Kendle99

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As you can see there are 8 ( pegs ) connections which had 3 blue and 3 brown wires connected , plus the 2 white wires . The advised replacement on / off unit only has 4 ( pegs ) connections.
How do I rewire / connect the 6 wires to the 4 ( pegs ) connections ?
 

guineafowl21

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I can’t quite see the numbers on those terminals, and was hoping to see the original wires connected. Please tell me you made a note of them... Can you draw them, with numbers, along with where the incoming L and N were connected?

It will also be helpful to trace where the outgoing wires went, ie to motor overload or to a door switch as mentioned above. The more info we have, the better, as it’s much more difficult doing this than having the thing in front of you.
 

Sheptonphil

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Your original looks like my old Jet Pillar drill switch that failed twice. It would only work if the button was held in. The NVR side relay died each time. I had to get the replacement from Germany. I think is was a KJD11. I ended up replacing it with a non NVR switch and making a face plate. With the terminals, two of yours are only used to close the contacts in a relay. These can be omitted and removed if using a non NVR switch. Can you identify the L and N in, and the L and N going to motor. They are the ones to switch. You don’t necessarily need an NVR for home use. It works perfect now.
 

Kendle99

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Thanks for all your help chaps . Major problem is getting an electrician interested ? As soon as I mention Band Saw , I get we only deal with domestic or call outs !! I guess that's where the money is ? I live in Portishead , N Somerset .
 

guineafowl21

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If you give us the details of the original connections, we could work it out for you. I wouldn’t dream of calling an electrician in for this sort of job, but if you did, he would most likely want the same information anyway.
 

sunnybob

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In your picture, forget about the white wires, they illuminate the switch button when the power is on.

It doesnt take long to trace out where your wires go. Do the doors have safety switches on them?
If so, open the connector panel and note the wires, (one switch or two switches.)

Open the motor connection panel and note (take a picture) of the connections.
Give us that info and rewiring is a very simple job.
 
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