Simple small drill bit lash-up.

[Cheshirechappie]

Paul Sellers shows how to use a nail as a substitute for a drill bit - a very simple and elegant dodge, I think!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCCiz9SwJhc

 

[NazNomad]

I have a whole heap of headless nails for this exact task.

However, if he'd blunted the point of the nail before driving it in, it probably wouldn't have split the wood.

A sharp point on a nail will force the wood fibres apart... a blunt point won't (as much).

 

[woodbrains]

However, if he'd blunted the point of the nail before driving it in, it probably wouldn't have split the wood.

A sharp point on a nail will force the wood fibres apart... a blunt point won't (as much).

Hello,

Indeed, when nailing thin splitty stuff, I always start the nail backwards. This does two things; it blunts the nail point, for reasons stated above, and makes a counter bore for the head, so when the nail is finally hammered flush, the head has somewhere to go, rather than forcing the wood apart and causing a split. Works a treat.

Mike.

 

[Jacob]

Brilliant! I've been pre-drilling for pins like that for years (I've made a lot of little boxes) but always scrabbling around for the right drill bit, and losing or breaking them. An 0.5mm twist bit is very tiny and fragile.
That's what is good about Paul S; very practical and sensible

One prob is that many chucks won't grip below 1mm dia or so. One that will is on the cheap Stanley 105 hand drill and it's worth keeping one just in case

 

[Cheshirechappie]

I suppose the four-facet 'sharpening' leaves the nail acting rather like a bird-cage awl, but one sized to the brad going through it. The 'blunt ended' nail technique is closer to the true bradawl - the one with a tip like a sharpened screwdriver - and acts on the wood fibres in a similar way. Nice to have a way to make the 'tool' fit the job in hand exactly, though.

Come to think of it, the bradawl is about as fashionable as flared trousers, these days. Is it really so ineffective a tool compared to a hand drill (or battery drill) and small twist bits?

 

[Racers]

I used a cut off leg of a paper clip about a week ago to drill a hole, the flattened end from the top side of the cutters gives a clearance so the wire doesn't get stuck.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

I suppose the four-facet 'sharpening' leaves the nail acting rather like a bird-cage awl, but one sized to the brad going through it. The 'blunt ended' nail technique is closer to the true bradawl - the one with a tip like a sharpened screwdriver - and acts on the wood fibres in a similar way. Nice to have a way to make the 'tool' fit the job in hand exactly, though.

Come to think of it, the bradawl is about as fashionable as flared trousers, these days. Is it really so ineffective a tool compared to a hand drill (or battery drill) and small twist bits?

Bradawl is highly effective in its right place.
You need two and a light hammer for door hanging - one bradawl holds the hinge in place and makes a starter hole whilst the other makes the hole for starting the first screw. Very quick and efficient.
Then if a hole is out of alignment you knock in a matchstick sized scrap to fill it and restart the hole, offset as necessary, with the bradawl.
Every tool kit should have two at least, perhaps different sizes.

PS in fact with light doors you can hang the whole door temporarily in place with one bradawl whilst you fiddle around with other bits n bobs.

 

[bugbear]

I used a cut off leg of a paper clip about a week ago to drill a hole, the flattened end from the top side of the cutters gives a clearance so the wire doesn't get stuck.

Pete

This.

Sellers seems to be over complicating a standard, simple process. Old books speak of simply
clipping the head off the nail, and inserting the nail in the chuck pointy end first, with
the clipped end protruding.

The clipping action makes a crude cutting edge, and also (very slightly)
make the cutter wider than the shank, leading to an effective drill.

Made in 2 seconds flat. Try it!

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

I used a cut off leg of a paper clip about a week ago to drill a hole, the flattened end from the top side of the cutters gives a clearance so the wire doesn't get stuck.

Pete

This.

Sellers seems to be over complicating a standard, simple process. Old books speak of simply
clipping the head off the nail, and inserting the nail in the chuck pointy end first, with
the clipped end protruding.

The clipping action makes a crude cutting edge, and also (very slightly)
make the cutter wider than the shank, leading to an effective drill.

Made in 2 seconds flat. Try it!

BugBear

Dunno it's hardly complicated spending another few seconds sharpening the nail end. Also you want a precise position for the hole if you are working with thin stuff or small hinges etc, so a point does have a point.

 

[Racers]

Use a hinge drill to centre the hole, pop one screw in, hardly complicated.


Pete

 

[bugbear]

Use a hinge drill to centre the hole, pop one screw in, hardly complicated.
Pete

I think we're drifting off topic; this isn't about making general purpose "proper" drills; it's about
the convenience of quickly turning a nail into a pre-drill for other nails of the same size.

I don't normally nail hinges on!

Old fretworking manuals have a slightly more elaborate procedure; the nail is hammered
slightly flat, and two flats filed on, making a tiny diamond point drill, similar
to those supplied with spiral screw drivers. e.g. Millers Falls supplied these:

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

I think Pete's cross posting and meant to comment in the very exciting new bradawl thread!

 

[lurker]

Use a hinge drill to centre the hole, pop one screw in, hardly complicated.


Pete

seeing as we have veered off course:

Jacob's method is easier, Pete.
No hinge drill required for a start (KISS)
The first bradawl holds the door in place (not easy unless you have a house full of helpers)

But back on topic: I have a Archimedes drill with a panel pin in it. Been using it since I was a kid, for that job :roll:

 

[Racers]

I position the door into the opening slightly, then tilt it back, that lifts up the hinge edge allowing you to screw the first screw in.
That's how I hang doors on my own.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Bradawl generally useful for getting a screw started.
But you don't need a hole to start a nail - it self locates by virtue of having a point.
But you may need a hole to stop splitting - or to keep it aligned and going through where you want it, nails large and small.
You can pin up a thick timber (say 3 to 4") with 8" nails if you pre-drill. Almost impossible without - even if you can hammer it through it may not come out where you expected it to. Ditto with pins and thin material

 

[skipdiver]

Brilliant! I've been pre-drilling for pins like that for years (I've made a lot of little boxes) but always scrabbling around for the right drill bit, and losing or breaking them. An 0.5mm twist bit is very tiny and fragile.
That's what is good about Paul S; very practical and sensible

One prob is that many chucks won't grip below 1mm dia or so. One that will is on the cheap Stanley 105 hand drill and it's worth keeping one just in case

I've also been doing this for years and if the pin is too thin for the chuck to grab hold of, simply wrap some tape around the end of the pin inserted into the chuck. It then grips it tightly. I find insulation tape good for the job.

 

[D_W]

George Wilson mentioned to me about making small bits out of instrument wire, and perhaps sewing needles (can't remember if the latter is correct.

Instrument wire is hardened, though.

 

[bugbear]

A quick wander to the workshop...

The smallest nail or pin I could find was 0.8 mm. All 3 egg beater drills I tried would hold this (Stanley 5803, Qualcast Clipper, Footprint). I didn't try all my drills.

I inserted the pin point first, clipped off the head (per my book learnin') , and had a go at a handy piece of ash; with such a tiny area, it was easy to push the "drill" a couple of mm into the wood - whilst a large drill might skate on the surface, this one won't.

It then drilled nicely - although needed clearing a couple of times, since it has no means of clearing the sawdust away.

Conclusion - after testing, I continue to recommend less sharpening than Sellers or Jacob!

BugBear

 

[Racers]

BB which was did you hold the cutters?

One side produces a cleaner cut than the other, the bevelled side makes a bigger flat which I find is best.

Pete

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Old fretworking manuals have a slightly more elaborate procedure; the nail is hammered
slightly flat, and two flats filed on, making a tiny diamond point drill, similar
to those supplied with spiral screw drivers. e.g. Millers Falls supplied these:



BugBear

Often called 'spade drills' - some watchmakers still make and use them, though normally from higher carbon steels, and hardened in the spirit lamp flame. In days of old before the advent of twist drills, they were made by engineering machinists up to quite large sizes - 2" diameter plus. Straight-sided versions are still used when very straight holes are needed, such as for gun barrels. However, that's rather far from woodworker's nailhole pilot dodges.

Come to think of it, I suppose masonry nails could be made into quite long-lasting versions....


Edit to add - and of course, I nearly forgot that the old type spade drills have morphed into the modern high-speed power tool flat or spade bit, which if you can whizz them round fast enough, are frighteningly effective!