Simple beginner question.

[Dan Robbins]

I am going to try and make a simple wooden photo frame for a few of my recent photography projects, it will be a simple 4 sides joined at 90 degrees with dowel joints. Nice and simple.
However, i require a 'lip' on all four sides of the frame for the glass to sit within, I do not have a bandsaw (i am assuming this is how it is typically done), and was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on how i could cut this 'lip'.
Dan

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Have you got a router?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Normal frame designs have a rebate (I think your synonym is lip) at the back into which the glass is seated. A rebate is defined as a channel with only two sides in the edge of a board. A bandsaw would be inappropriate to cut it. A router is one excellent way to go. Failing that a table saw with the blade set low, to groove out the rebate in successive passes. Or I you have little in the way of power tools a simple tenon saw carefully used on a clearly marked line. Maybe clamp a straight edge to butt the saw to to keep the cut straight.

Or a hand plane, again shooting against a straight edge so it keeps planing in the same place till you achieve the depth you require

Lots of approaches but the issue is what tools do you have access to. If it were me, I'd use a router. If I were just starting out, I'd buy a router because they're indescribably useful

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It's nice to do your own, but be realistic : you haven't mentioned cutting the mitres or joining the corners accurately. If your main interest is photography, look at local bargain shops, markets and car boots : buy a framed picture and put the picture in the nearest bin - you'll have a picture frame that cost you less than the glass would have cost had you made your own.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Yes but.........he wants to make one right? Isn't that why he posted here.....so shouldn't we be........er.....encouraging....helping....all that stuff.....just a thought

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Certainly - but I but I only mentioned an option. For what a few frames cost in time and money, you could probably make a decent little piece of furniture. When your frames turn out ..well, less than perfect...that's only going to put you off attempting something else?

 

[adidat]

encouraging a new member with a small understanding of woodwork to use an unguarded table saw, in a dangerous manor, strikes me as a very bad idea......... just a thought

Phil has hit the nail on the head, making a decent job of mitres isnt easy. let a framing shop do it for a tenner

adidat

 

[Jelly]

He's said he's using dowel reinforced butt-joints, Ok, so conventionally mitres are considered more aesthetically pleasing, but if he wants to use that method, why not.

Depending on the size of your frames, you could use a carcass saw or other larger backsaw to define the "Field" of the rebate, by making a straight cut part way through (tip: mark the line and then use a chisel to cut a little notch about 1" long at both ends on the waste side of the line, then make two cuts extending 1/3rd to 1/2 of the way at an angle, so that the cut extends all the way to the depth of the rebate at the ends and comes out the top somewhere near the middle of the board; then join those two kerfs up to get a straight line... then you can just take a chisel and pare (or even chop gently with a mallet until you're close to the line) the material until you're level with the line. It's not the quickest option, but it's fairly simple and a great opportunity to get used to making long straight cuts and paring material away; The finished product will not show the rebate, so it doesn't matter if it isn't perfect first time.

A router would be another good option, as would a rabbet plane (or a shoulder or bullnose plane in a pinch) riding against a straightedge clamped down as a fence.

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I have a couple of picture frames to cut down, but I am putting the job off as they are pigs to do, not enough area to glue I don't have a pinner like the framers do etc.

Saying that the easiest way to form a rebate is glue a strip of wood around the inside of the frame, maybe a different colour of wood.

Pete

 

[disco_monkey79]

One thing I've been doing is buying cheap and nasty picture frames from boot sales etc. Junk the old surround, and you have a piece of glass with a back cut to the same size (unless you need a frame in an unusual shape/size). Cheaper than buying a new bit of glass.

If the OP is thinking of doing a few frames, it may be worth googling framing jigs, as one would help with the putting together.

As well as glueing a strip to the edge of a piece of timber, to create a rebate, you could always "sandwich" two pieces together, one in front of the other, (with the rear piece being narrower). Not necessarily easier or better, it all depends on the size of stock you can get hold of, and the tools avilable to work it.

As well as getting the mitres cut very accurately, bear in mind that the opposing sides of the frame also need to be exactly the same length, else you'll never get a perfect result.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Good idea

I think the point here is that this chap wants to make something that he will value into the future out of wood. As another poster points out, already stipulated the plan was to use dowelled butt joints so he's thought through the issue of mitres being a pig. The challenge he's throwing out is rebates and how to cut them (a lip).

I agree its unlikely he has large machine tools like a table saw, however no one knows for certain as he's yet to respond. If in fact it turns out he does have a tablesaw then I for one will assume he has the good sense to use it properly and safely. If he doesn't, then there is no safety concern is there!

As for the economic argument. I don't think anyone would argue against that for a second. You're absolutely right, the glass would cost more than your proposed direction. And.....had he posted in the "how can I make picture frames for pipper all money" forum, it would have been valid.

However, he posted in a woodwork forum because he wants to create something of value out of that beautiful material.....wood. He has chosen a picture frame. That's good enough for me so I want to enable and encourage that enthusiasm. No one ever learnt to ride a bike without falling over!

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

In other words look upon the making of a picture frame as an investment in woodwork training.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I like the idea of recycling the mats from cheap boot sale buys. That neatly combines both the economic problem and the desire to make something

 

[carlb40]

While the accepted wisdom is for frames to have mitred corners. In photography we normally choose frames that suit the pictures in question.
Dan's way while not being the traditional way kills 2 birds with one stone. He gets to practice wood work and get a frame for his pictures at the same time

As said Dan the easiest way is with a router / router table with a rebate bit. Using a table saw for this would be a no no in this situation.
For one the guarding would need to be removed and 2nd most frames are narrow stock thus bringing ones fingers too close to the blade.

If you want any help? brum isn't too big

 

[ColeyS1]

let a framing shop do it for a tenner

adidat

I tried that. Told them I was a joiner but didnt really have the time. Told them I could usually get the joints about 90 % but not perfect. Had the shock of my life when I got home and unwrapped the oak frames. There was filler in every joint some having 2mm gaps. I rose to the challenge and now making frames doesn't bother me. A decent band clamp thingy definitely made things easier

 

[Dan Robbins]

Well I wasn't expecting that response in the time I went to get some kip.
Thanks everyone, some great ideas suggested. The reason I wanted to make this frame is not to save a few £, otherwise I would have bought it online. I have some lovely old planks that had washed up on my local beach back home, and I think they would be perfect for a nice photo frame. The frame I wanted was quite large and also, quite a non standard shape so making one would be the best option.
As I am living in Birmingham as a student, i don't have any of my powertools up here, and trecking to West Wales to get them is out of the question.
So, as the wood is actually quite thick, 22mm at a guess, I could either nail a narrow piece of wood behind it or use a carcass saw to define the field of the rebate and chisel it out? that founds feasible.

I know the mitre joints are more commonly used but
1) They're a puppy to cut and fit neatly
2) As i'm using old washed up wood, i think the dowelled joints adds to the 'rustic' look which I'm going for, and as I am actually wanting to frame a Panoramic shot of the Gower Peninsular beaches, it works.
I'm not a complete beginner when it comes to woodworking and I usually pick things up quickly, and besides, it's will be some good practise. Thanks again everyone, dan

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Great...sounds nice..maybe even counterbore two dowel holes in the font of each corner and "dummy" two dowels at each butt joint that are then visible from the face and stand slightly proud of the surface. That kind of decoration might suit the driftwood thang going on

Good luck

Maybe post a finished pic when youre done

 

[dickm]

Just one recommendation, if the OP plans to make a few frames, and if he can find one at a sensible cheap price , the Hirsh picture framing jig is a useful bit of kit. It holds the frame square while the glue sets. The problem with the usual string/band clamps is that it's all too easy to just nudge them out of square without noticing. DAMHIKT

 

[deserter]

Instead of a butt joint why not use a half lap, the dowels would then go through the face and make a nice feature, and a stronger joint.


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~

 

[No skills]

+1 for half lap's, done a few bits of late with just half laps and glue - pleasantly supprised how strong they were, werent exactly to nasa tollerances either...