Shoulder Plane

[Stormer1940]

Hi

Can anyone recommend a decent shoulder plane? Probably looking to spend £50 - £100 at a stretch.

Thanks

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Shoulder planes tend to be expensive, new or old. Clifton are the best of the new bunch (in my opinion!), but a bit outside budget for the larger ones. The 3110 3-in-1 plane is a really nice size, and versatile.

For £100, secondhand is probably the best bet. The older Records are usually well spoken of. For £50, I suspect you may be taking your chances, but maybe a punt on a new Faithfull could be worth it if you're prepared to do a bit of sole flattening.

 

[Racers]

Easy

http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Qua ... html#SID=4

Or

cut-some-metal-with-up-updated-pics-t29992.html

Pete

 

[sunnybob]

ok, I'll bite.
How do you push that quang sheng plane without damaging your hand?

 

[Stormer1940]

Thanks. Just managed to snap an old record 311 up on ebay in good nic.

 

[richarddownunder]

Easy

http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Qua ... html#SID=4

Or

cut-some-metal-with-up-updated-pics-t29992.html

Pete

Hey Pete
I like your shoulder plane design, thanks for posting the link. It looks a darn sight easier approach than making a dovetailed one (the only one I made took so long I'm afraid to use it). Another possible project for a rainy day!

Cheers
Richard

BTW, I have a Clifton 420 - its nice to use, if a little on the big side for some projects so i would probably go for the 410...but, not surprisingly, more expensive than the Chinese equivalent.

 

[undergroundhunter]

I have the QS plane Pete linked to and for me its perfect for the job.

Matt

 

[Corneel]

ok, I'll bite.
How do you push that quang sheng plane without damaging your hand?

The same way I use my Record I guess: Draping my hand over the handle, which is pretty comfy.

 

[sunnybob]

The picture I saw looked more like a futuristic staple gun, with a lever on top. Is that the handle?

 

[Corneel]

You mean this one? Pretty standard, classic design, not really much different from my old Record shoulderplane. And indeed the lever is the handle.

To compare, here is the Record 073: http://www.record-planes.com/record-no-073-improved-shoulder-rabbet-plane/

 

[sunnybob]

If you are supposed to push that forwards along a piece of wood by resting your hand on top of that lever, that is the worst designed handle the world has ever seen.

 

[AndyT]

Bob, it's not like using a jack plane, where you may need to bear down and push hard.

A shoulder plane is for removing only the tiniest amount of wood, for final fitting. It will often be used lying on its side and pulled along, where the 'hump' at the front becomes very useful. Try one!

 

[Corneel]

Did you ever use it?

 

[Racers]

Easy

http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Qua ... html#SID=4

Or

cut-some-metal-with-up-updated-pics-t29992.html

Pete

Hey Pete
I like your shoulder plane design, thanks for posting the link. It looks a darn sight easier approach than making a dovetailed one (the only one I made took so long I'm afraid to use it). Another possible project for a rainy day!

Cheers
Richard

BTW, I have a Clifton 420 - its nice to use, if a little on the big side for some projects so i would probably go for the 410...but, not surprisingly, more expensive than the Chinese equivalent.

Hi Richard

It has a curvy friend

New Shoulder plane by Racers, on Flickr

Made the same way but with Corian infill and wedge.

Pete

 

[G S Haydon]

As Andy said it's a shoulder plane the body of the plane lies on the tenon, the cutter working on the end grain of the shoulder. Can be used in other place too but this is what is was deigned to do well.

Pulling a plane Andy! Whatever next

 

[sunnybob]

I'll stick to my router table, thanks.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Thanks. Just managed to snap an old record 311 up on ebay in good nic.

If it's the Ebay sale I think it is - that should do nicely!

One thing that is often missing from secondhand 3-in-1 shoulder planes are the two shims supplied with new ones to go between the main body and nose-piece, to open the mouth. On the Cliffie, they're 0.016" and 0.036" (as near as dammit, 1/64" and 1/32"). If yours doesn't have the shims, don't worry - a couple of pieces of thin card will make perfectly decent substitutes should you ever need to open the mouth up a bit. You'll have to cut three small holes, one for the fixing screw and two for the locating dowels, but that should be easy enough with a scalpel.

 

[Stormer1940]

Should be here today or Monday hopefully.