should i just bite the bullet and get a sorby pro edge?

[Random Orbital Bob]

I thought he meant that too....then I thought what you did

 

[woodpig]

Yes tool handle. :| In fact can't you buy some fancy turning tools with removable handles? I think those strange blokes "over the pond" use them a fair bit?

 

[Westfield]

I bought one after looking at the other options, it does make sharpening woodturning chisels easy and I have not had any problems with handles etc.
You have to be careful when using the long grind jig as it can rub on the belt if not positioned correctly.
I know cheaper belts are available but other users told me the belts last for months anyway so not sure it's worth the effort to buy the non Sorby options.

No regrets with this purchase so far.

Hugh

 

[Graham Orm]

NO NO NO NO NO!
Have I made myself clear? I've been through lots of options with sharpenning, I am now using an Eclipse jig on a diamond stone 1000/400, then on a strop with alluminium oxide paste on it still with the jig on (pulling backwards only) This gets a superb even edge, a mirror finish and a razor sharp blade.
Save your money!!!

 

[Rhossydd]

I am now using an Eclipse jig on a diamond stone

Did you notice which section of the forum this was posted in ? I can't believe you're seriously suggesting using an Eclipse jig on a bowl gouge.

It looks like the SPE is a seriously good bit of kit by the entire lack of negative comments here. The only downside is the initial cost, but they are really solidly built. The rarity and high prices they go for on eBay usually tells you that purchasers are pretty satisfied with them. I've just about given up waiting for one to sell for a significant discount off new, so will be buying mine new later this month.
But you can easily get away with a 6" grinder with a decent wheel if you're unsure about the investment or simply can't afford it.

 

[Lons]

Hi Gavin

If you can justify the cost my advice would be get it.

I've tried everything over the years and can sharpen reasonably well by hand but I don't enjoy the process. I've got a Tormek T7 which is superb but slow and like others I searched for a long time for a s/h pro edge. Finally got one recently and so far find it very quick, very accurate and doesn't overheat the tool unless careless. Perfect for turning tools especially though my carving chisels with still be a hand process.

I only got 120g belts with it and about to order some other grits to try.

cheers
Bob

 

[Graham Orm]

I am now using an Eclipse jig on a diamond stone

Did you notice which section of the forum this was posted in ? I can't believe you're seriously suggesting using an Eclipse jig on a bowl gouge.

It looks like the SPE is a seriously good bit of kit by the entire lack of negative comments here. The only downside is the initial cost, but they are really solidly built. The rarity and high prices they go for on eBay usually tells you that purchasers are pretty satisfied with them. I've just about given up waiting for one to sell for a significant discount off new, so will be buying mine new later this month.
But you can easily get away with a 6" grinder with a decent wheel if you're unsure about the investment or simply can't afford it.

OOPSY!

 

[Doofusme]

You should buy my grinder outfit on ebay....

 

[Bigbud78]

You should buy my grinder outfit on ebay....

Send me a link

 

[Silverbirch]

Another vote for the Pro Edge. I used a 6" grinder for long enough, but I always had problems with vibration, which new wheels and attempts at balancing them never fully resolved to my satisfaction. Once I got the Pro Edge, these and various other niggles disappeared. It`s much better built than the average cheap bench grinder, but of course, quite a bit more expensive. Design wise, it`s not perfect, but at least it is designed in part with turning tools in mind. An earlier post mentioned the Wolverine system, but,factor in a half decent grinder, perhaps with replacement cooler running wheels, and the price differential is not that great.

 

[Rhossydd]

Any owners care to share how often they have to replace the belts ?

 

[marcros]

i can only comment that the ones that i have- ceramic in 60 and 120, and zirconium in 240 last a good while. I have had my machine a few months and used it regularly. yet to replace a belt. The aluminium oxide are said not to last as long.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Depends entirely on use, frequency obviously being one consideration but by far the biggest is shaping versus sharpening. I've tended to become "the bloke with the PE" at my turning club open meets so get landed with "fixing" all manner of severely out of true gouges, skews and scrapers. All HSS, all unrecognisable in the single facet bevel department! After one particularly gruelling 11/4" skew that was almost ground flat and square and therefore took a huge amount of effort with the 60grit ceramic, it was getting a little tired. That was after 2 hours of all manner of other major shaping operations though. I threw that one away because as the abrasive wears down, so the cutting slows, the friction builds and over heating can be more of a challenge.

But for my use in the workshop, and when not dealing with major family health crises I tend to turn all day, it's an absolute soldier. Once you're sharpening and not shaping you can easily get 6 months out of a regularly used belt. (Ceramic). Marcros, Paulm and I shop for them at a place called B&D Abrasives in Andover mail order. They're the least expensive we've found but require a minimum order hence the sharing between us and I think they work out at around £2.70 per belt from memory.

Personally, I've used oil stones for many years, then a dry grinder, then a Tormek and I still use all for different jobs but for turning, by far and away the most used method is the PE. Put it this way, the cost of belts as a consumable in a domestic setting is negligible and would be unlikely to exceed £20/year.

 

[Jacob]

It's when you have a lot of metal to remove that the bench grinder comes into it's own. Or an angle grinder. As long as you don't overheat and stop well short, then tidying up and finishing off on a belt sander.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I agree removing lots of metal is a bit of a pain. It's particularly gruelling on a Tormek, especially wide surface area tools like skews. I was pleasantly surprised with the PE for avoiding overheating while still removing hard steel. I wasn't used to linisher style tools apart from bodging on a regular belt sander before the PE but thought it stood up particularly well when compared to my bench grinder. In fairness though, I'm only using a white wheel on my dry grinder, I've never got particularly sophisticated with it. But the PE seemed to avoid heating up the HSS better than the grinder, quite a bit of difference in fact and I've posted to that effect many times. I do still keep a dunking pot of water next to it and again, wide surface area tools like big skews do require it if you try to hurry them by too much physical pressure. But, though clearly not objective, I would swear the linisher style seems to cut cooler than the white wheel with the low grit belts.

I must say I've never tried using the angle grinder on a "fine edged" tool like a turning chisel but I guess to just remove the bulk at the start and then finesse it after sounds like a good idea. Very abrasive wheels, cooler grind. Do you use an angle grinder as the first step a lot then Jacob? Rather like the idea of fast, cool and crude to get the back broken.

 

[woodpig]

60 grit on my belt sander takes metal off pretty fast but the real beauty is that I can change to 240 grit to get a polished edge. The only let down with the Pro edge is the time it takes to change belts. I don't know how long it takes you Pro edge owners but it only takes a few seconds on my belt sander. In fairness it used to take several minutes at least on my RP BDS250 until I modified it for tool sharpening.

 

[paulm]

60 grit on my belt sander takes metal off pretty fast but the real beauty is that I can change to 240 grit to get a polished edge. The only let down with the Pro edge is the time it takes to change belts. I don't know how long it takes you Pro edge owners but it only takes a few seconds on my belt sander. In fairness it used to take several minutes at least on my RP BDS250 until I modified it for tool sharpening.

Only takes about five seconds on the pro-edge, tracking always remains spot on for me too, haven't had to adjust it since initial set up a few years back.

Cheers, Paul

 

[woodpig]

Only takes about five seconds on the pro-edge, tracking always remains spot on for me too, haven't had to adjust it since initial set up a few years back.

Cheers, Paul

I think they must have changed the design then Paul because it used to take a few minutes to remove and replace the covers on the ones they had at work.

 

[paulm]

Only takes about five seconds on the pro-edge, tracking always remains spot on for me too, haven't had to adjust it since initial set up a few years back.

Cheers, Paul

I think they must have changed the design then Paul because it used to take a few minutes to remove and replace the covers on the ones they had at work.

I leave the covers off mine, don't recommend it to anyone else but I'm perfectly happy to do so.

I guess your belt sander must be without covers too if it's similarly quick to change ?

If the covers were left on I guess it must take about 30 seconds or so rather than five, so no biggie either way

Cheers, Paul

 

[Lons]

I put the covers on and takes about 30 to 40 seconds to change, just tried it!

I didn't want to buy large numbers of belts from B&D so searched around and the best prices I could find were from Poolewood. E.G alu oxide at £1.95 each, trizact @ £8.20 but not this is plus VAT and a del. charge. Mine should be here tomorrow

cheers
Bob