Shellac

[Baldhead]

Are there any advantages to applying a coat of Shellac to an Oak box before a couple of coats of Briwax, other than a slightly darker finish?

TIA

Baldhead

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

The point of shellac, or Acrylic, or cellulose is that they're classed as sanding sealers. They fill the pores of particularly open grained woods like oak and ash. They leave a much smoother surface upon which the final finish (wax in your case) sits better and achieves greater lustre. So yes, especially for oak, a sanding sealer is a good idea.

However, cellulose is a heck of a lot easier to use and faster than the other two. Shellac is the most tricky, though having said that, as long as you go quick its not that bad. Denib it after the first coat and generally two coats is a good idea.

 

[marcros]

You need some form of seal on it or you will be applying wax constantly to it.

I use the shellac one because it is all I have ever bought. Any of the 3 Bob listed would do the job. Alternatively a coat or two of shellac polish, which is just a greater proportion of shellac to solvent. It will change the colour though, from a little with a clear polish to a lot with button or garnet polish.

 

[CHJ]

I often use Shellac on large Oak items with a particularly open grain as it tends to bulk up quicker in filling the pores and I like the look of it.

Applying a solvent based paste wax without a sealer risks an uneven penetration of the wax base across the differing grain directions and could well lead to a blotchy appearance to the finish.

 

[RogerS]

This is what I posted over on the other forum in response to a similar question..

Lightly sand the table top.
Wipe over with meths (the solvent for shellac) to remove any dust

1) Apply a coat of shellac...this might be close in colour but only you can tell http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/Item/fiddes ... ton_polish

2) use a brush or if you are feeling flush then one of these works well. http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/Item/french_polishing_mops

3) it dries pretty quickly.....around 30-40 minutes. lightly rub down with 240 paper. you are only after removing any high points left from your brush strokes.

4) go back to (1) and repeat as many times as you have the patience...the aim is to build up a reasonably thick coat of shellac

5) when you've had enough, rub down once more with 240 grit...making sure that there is an even light colour all over...no shiny bits here and there. This gives you a good even surface.

6) take some 000 steel wool and Briwax. Apply ad then polish.

What I call 'The Poor Man's French Polish'

And a good call on not using Danish Oil....bloody awful stuff.

 

[marcros]

On oak, replace the steel wool with scotch bright. Excellent guide from roger there. I would add that use one long stroke when applying, and don't go back over it. A brush as linked to makes a huge difference and is much easier. Mine is a size 12 or so I think. Also beware of fat edges where the shellac pools around the corner from where you have applied it.

And buy the smallest amount that you can (if premixed). A little goes a long way and it has a finite lifespan. Easy enough to mix from flake if you so choose.

 

[MIGNAL]

Why, what's wrong with Danish Oil Roger? Even when I'm French polishing I apply a coat of Danish Oil first. Nothing displays the grain of wood quite like an Oil finish.

 

[RogerS]

Why, what's wrong with Danish Oil Roger? Even when I'm French polishing I apply a coat of Danish Oil first. Nothing displays the grain of wood quite like an Oil finish.

It smells. Takes ages to go off (and yes, I do wipe off the excess).

 

[RogerS]

On oak, replace the steel wool with scotch bright. ....

In principle I agree with you in that oak and steel do not mix. But in this case there is a thick layer of shellac between the wire wool and the oak. If the steel gets down to the oak then you've rubbed too hard !