Shed Security

[DTR]

First let me apologise, I know there are copious threads about security, but I have a rather specific question.

My workshop is a wooden shed, 16' x 10', with three glass windows measuring 15" wide x 22" high. It has a double door that is locked by a simple padlock and bolt. I was thinking about replacing the padlock and bolt with a mortice lock and installing a simple home brew alarm system.

Originally I was going to use a separate key switch to disarm the alarm, but inevitably either Grace or I will forget to disarm it and set the thing off. This got me wondering whether I could use the mortice lock to arm / disarm the alarm? Does a mortice lock exist that includes an electrical switch? I somehow doubt it, in which case I'll home brew that too, but I thought I'd ask you learned people first.

Also I've heard of sensors that detect the force of a window breaking. I was going to attach those to the windows, but I'm not sure if it's worth it for a 15" x 22" window? I don't really want to bar the windows as it will advertise the shed to burglars as well as cut out light.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Lons]

Hi Dave

Chubb used to sell a mortice lock with a microswitch specifically for that purpose and I'm sure they weren't the only manufacturer. From memory it was very expensive though so a home made version could be your choice. Had one on my office door years ago (called a "shunt" I think) and it worked very well.

Vibration sensors are common and easily obtained from any of the electrical or alarm wholesalers but you could also use adhesive foil tape around the window which serves a similar purpose. The sensors can sometimes be triggered by low flying aircraft or a bird flying into the window.

A PIR is another option but you'll have to be careful as they can be affected by dust.

And another is to fit a secondary pane of clear 6mm polycarbonate to the inside of each window which a burglar would find virtually impossible to break. That would have the additional benefit of double glazed effect.

cheers

Bob

Cheers

Bob

 

[DaveyP]

As well as the 'chubb' mortice lock and others with overpriced micro switches there was also available a cheaper generic micro switched mortice bolt keep plate

Heres some info which may give you a hint http://www.dantech.uk.com/da223.html

Of course it all depends on how your security circuit is configured as to how effective / fool proof this method of
arm / disarm will be ( to protect the keep plate I would recommended a vibration detector mounted on the door frame)

Dave

 

[sercher70]

You don't say how close your shed is to your house. My garage is about 20feet and I have a basic shed alarm fitted to an entrance gate. There is enough wire to fit the alarm to the house and the alarm panel is hidden in situ. a simple magnetic contact is fitted so the alarm goes off once the contact is broken . There is a removable keY which gives you about 15 seconds or so to clear the area when switch on . The alarm is a small 2x2" unit which can be located or 3 of these units and B&Q sell them about 12/£15 pounds very easy to fit and quite loud alarm. If you fitted the contact unit( a small bar about 2"x 1/2" with an adhesive to the side of a window pane then once the glass is broken so will be the contact and the alarm will sound. It is all so easy and very effective. You also mentioned a double door to the shed. The most effective deterrent ( but a bit if a nuisance if you want to get in and out regularly through a day) would be the well tried and tested 2 or 2.1/2" wide x3/8" thick bar which will span the entrance and use a lock and hasp that has what is called a blind keeper with it. The hasp goes over the lock hole and the the square keeper goes over the top covering all screws that fit the unit to the shed. If this interests you then go to a good lock smith and say you wast a locking bar unit to span the doors and he will no doubt show you pictures if he does not have one stock. Mortice locks can be drilled out with a vanadium tipped drill in an £18 battery operated hand drill. My 18 quid drill will push a 3/8"dia drill bit through a piece of stainless steel in about 20 seconds,, and it is very quiet!!

 

[Dibs-h]

As well as the 'chubb' mortice lock and others with overpriced micro switches there was also available a cheaper generic micro switched mortice bolt keep plate

Heres some info which may give you a hint http://www.dantech.uk.com/da223.html

Of course it all depends on how your security circuit is configured as to how effective / fool proof this method of
arm / disarm will be ( to protect the keep plate I would recommended a vibration detector mounted on the door frame)

Dave

The Chubb mortice locks aren't overpriced - Commercial grade locks are substantially more than domestic ones and given how hard some of their locks are to overcome or even pick . If you think Chubb are expensive - you should check out Banham locks!

Effective security costs - visual deterrents usually don't.

HIH

Dibs

 

[DaveyP]

The Chubb mortice locks aren't overpriced

Never said they were... what is over priced is the addition of the micro switch.

Banham locks are historically just re badged and tweeked Union and Yale lock cases and cylinders, can't remember who manufactured their large cylinder night latch case but it was out sourced (that's from when they were independent and totally separate companys before being taken over many times).. for an example of quality and cost then I'd of picked (pun intentional) Bramah.

Dave (retired MBLI)

 

[Blister]

These will bypass most locks and door frames

As I know from my 3 break-ins in 7 years

I now have big signs saying ALARM SYSTEM INSTALLED

And yes I do now have a wireless alarm system and now have grills over the windows

Works well , I replace the batteries every 6 months just to make sure and check the little red LED trigger lights monthly

 

[DaveyP]

These will bypass most locks and door frames

Correct..

Famous quotations involving fulcrums springs to mind.

 

[DTR]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far, very much appreciated

I'm a bit reluctant to use vibration sensors as cats, birds, squirrels and the neighbour's football are all frequent visitors to the roof / wall. Fitting a microswitch to the lock keeper is what I imagined as a DIY fix; I never realised that's how the pros did it too.

I'm not expecting any foolproof fixes to keep burglars out, I just hope a siren activation as soon as the door / window is tampered with would be enough to spook most burglars off (yes I'm that naive). The shed is situated at the end of a 110' garden. On either side are neighbours' gardens (seperated by 6' fence and privet hedge). To the rear is a school ground sperated by several fences. I think the most likely access / escape would be from our own driveway into the garden or from the school.

 

[DaveyP]

Hi Dave

Dont forget that if your using the micro switch to arm / disarm then as soon as the lock bolt is levered away from the keep then the
alarm will be deactivated and kinda pointless if used on its own !!

You will have to think about reinforcing the area around the keep, the lock and most importantly the area between the door and frame (even more so on an outward open door).. then you can fit a vibration sensor (like made by viper) and set the activation above just foot ball level..

Maybe

 

[Jonzjob]

Get the loudest siren that you can and fit it inside the shed. That way anyone breaking in will not be able to steal anything with his fingers in his ears! It works..

Plus, thieves like to be able to tell when anyone is approaching. If there is so much racket going on in the shed they won't hear a train comming never mind an angry owner..

I did just that to my car when I ftiied an alarm. It went off one day when the battery died trying to start the car. When I let go of the key and the voltage came back up the alarm went off. I was out like a shot! My ears didn't stop ringing for about 15 minutes :shock:

 

[DTR]

Hi Dave

Dont forget that if your using the micro switch to arm / disarm then as soon as the lock bolt is levered away from the keep then the
alarm will be deactivated and kinda pointless if used on its own !!

Very good point. My original thoughts were that the door would be forced rather than the lock bolt, but then Blister made a very good point with the advanced lock disabling device he posted. I have bought a separate key switch for the time being.

Get the loudest siren that you can and fit it inside the shed. That way anyone breaking in will not be able to steal anything with his fingers in his ears! It works..

Plus, thieves like to be able to tell when anyone is approaching. If there is so much racket going on in the shed they won't hear a train comming never mind an angry owner..

My thoughts exactly. I've picked up a 116dB siren but haven't had the guts to test it yet. I think the legal threshold isn't far abaove that...

 

[Jonzjob]

I was looking for the legal max and found this http://www.environmental-protection.org ... pollution/

Quite, or should that be quiet, interesting...

 

[Benchwayze]

First let me apologise, I know there are copious threads about security, but I have a rather specific question.

My workshop is a wooden shed, 16' x 10', with three glass windows measuring 15" wide x 22" high. It has a double door that is locked by a simple padlock and bolt. I was thinking about replacing the padlock and bolt with a mortice lock and installing a simple home brew alarm system.

Originally I was going to use a separate key switch to disarm the alarm, but inevitably either Grace or I will forget to disarm it and set the thing off. This got me wondering whether I could use the mortice lock to arm / disarm the alarm? Does a mortice lock exist that includes an electrical switch? I somehow doubt it, in which case I'll home brew that too, but I thought I'd ask you learned people first.

Also I've heard of sensors that detect the force of a window breaking. I was going to attach those to the windows, but I'm not sure if it's worth it for a 15" x 22" window? I don't really want to bar the windows as it will advertise the shed to burglars as well as cut out light.

Thanks in advance.

Dave,

Put up some net curtains, and inside have a hinged, heavy gauge sheet of netting, that you can swing up out of the way when you are working.
The net curtains will hide the wire from view.

If you don't have room to hinge the netting, then put it in a light frame that you can fix over the windows with turnbuckles or good door bolts once you finish for the day.

HTH
John