Shed build, many many questions...

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Put on battens to hold down Tyvek until cladding arrives or leave battens off to avoid possible water - opinions? We had a bit of wind yesterday and I had to rush out and put more staples in but it seems to have held up. Cladding may or may not be fitted until next year
 
Put on battens to hold down Tyvek until cladding arrives or leave battens off to avoid possible water - opinions? We had a bit of wind yesterday and I had to rush out and put more staples in but it seems to have held up. Cladding may or may not be fitted until next year
no reason not to add the battens I don't think.
Ensure they are vertical, not horizontal, so that water cannot pool, and if they need to be horizontal because your cladding is vertical then you need to double batten:
vert batten -> horiz batten -> vert cladding
Check Tyvek website for UV resilience, it should be waterproof but its not designed to be in the sun so might have a UV volatility

Martin
 
Battens for deffo, once a corner lifts in the wind it'll be in tatters before you even notice.
 
no reason not to add the battens I don't think.
Ensure they are vertical, not horizontal, so that water cannot pool, and if they need to be horizontal because your cladding is vertical then you need to double batten:
vert batten -> horiz batten -> vert cladding
Check Tyvek website for UV resilience, it should be waterproof but its not designed to be in the sun so might have a UV volatility

Martin
What this man said is the correct way if you are using vertical cladding. I was a cheap skate and did not do this, I simply angled the top of each batten on the planer so that any water did not pool against the membrane. This however meant I planed away the tanalising (sp?) chemical so all my battens will rot early and the cladding will fall off. So is the will of the shed building gods.
40966-065.-Window-Cill.JPG
 
Tyvek (type stuff) went on today, after routing out the window, which was going well until the bit lost its bearing

Added a small radius on all the sharp edges while I had the router out to avoid any tears.

Great fun putting that on in the wind and rain!

View attachment 144141

View attachment 144140

View attachment 144139

I remember clearly routing out the windows as it was great fun, if a little scary to hold a 2.5kW router freehand like that. Thankfully a carbide router is much harder than a stainless steel screw.
37579-17-Screw-Oops.JPG
 
I'd put on battens tbh.

And cladding asap too..

no reason not to add the battens I don't think.
Ensure they are vertical, not horizontal, so that water cannot pool, and if they need to be horizontal because your cladding is vertical then you need to double batten:
vert batten -> horiz batten -> vert cladding
Check Tyvek website for UV resilience, it should be waterproof but its not designed to be in the sun so might have a UV volatility

Martin

What this man said is the correct way if you are using vertical cladding. I was a cheap skate and did not do this, I simply angled the top of each batten on the planer so that any water did not pool against the membrane. This however meant I planed away the tanalising (sp?) chemical so all my battens will rot early and the cladding will fall off. So is the will of the shed building gods.
40966-065.-Window-Cill.JPG

Hadn’t thought of all that, I think the cladding will be vertical and I was just mulling over angling the battens but it all makes good sense. Thanks!
 
Hadn’t thought of all that, I think the cladding will be vertical and I was just mulling over angling the battens but it all makes good sense. Thanks!
The step you are about to make is one which I almost screwed up, the door fitting. I didn't really think about the battens and cladding depth when positioning the doors and windows, I just defaulted into placing in the middle of the wall. My thinking was that I wanted the reveals to be same size on both sides. It is the sill that needs thinking about though... I got lucky and the sill protruded past the cladding, but only because I did horizontal cladding and hence had only one layer of battens.
I didn't fit them myself, just instructed the door fitters where to put them... when they asked me I hadn't really thought it through and almost randomly made that decision.
Think about your sill depth too, this is usually configurable, so have a think about what you want and need 🙂

Martin
 
What this man said is the correct way if you are using vertical cladding. I was a cheap skate and did not do this, I simply angled the top of each batten on the planer so that any water did not pool against the membrane. This however meant I planed away the tanalising (sp?) chemical so all my battens will rot early and the cladding will fall off. So is the will of the shed building gods.
40966-065.-Window-Cill.JPG
Haha, nice idea though!
 
The step you are about to make is one which I almost screwed up, the door fitting. I didn't really think about the battens and cladding depth when positioning the doors and windows, I just defaulted into placing in the middle of the wall. My thinking was that I wanted the reveals to be same size on both sides. It is the sill that needs thinking about though... I got lucky and the sill protruded past the cladding, but only because I did horizontal cladding and hence had only one layer of battens.
I didn't fit them myself, just instructed the door fitters where to put them... when they asked me I hadn't really thought it through and almost randomly made that decision.
Think about your sill depth too, this is usually configurable, so have a think about what you want and need 🙂

Martin

Thanks, hadn’t thought about that, but then I haven’t actually got a door. The window was ordered by mistake at the wrong length by someone who intended it to be installed vertically, so I’ve only got a short sill and will have to think of something. I made a cock up with the framing for the window and made it 45mm too tall but I think I can take advantage of this for a sill. When I work it out. I’m completely making this up as I go along at the moment. I’m away from home at the moment but I think the roof has arrived so I’ll hopefully lay it out over the weekend as I think it needs to rest. Also found a good source for the facia etc. so hoping to get that ordered when I can sit down for a minute.

https://www.plasticshub.com/product/9mm-fascia-capping-board/
 
When I built my shed I was going to reuse the glass from the old shed that was being eaten by woodworm. But my mothers house was having new windows and they transposed the height and width when they made it. I have a bigger window that has two openings rather than a smaller single pane.
 
Got the plastics ordered last night, I’d have like to do the facia and soffit in wood but I still haven’t had time to go on a cladding hunting trip and since it will get a lot of abuse from the weather it seems like money well spent.

Wife said she had a knock on the door today, from the neighbour directly behind. I was worried for a minute but apparently I’ve now been enlisted to help him build a shed as he’s impressed.
 
First productive weekend for a while, although I got very wet yesterday! Rubber roof glued down this afternoon (with the weather looking scarily gloomy). Impressed at how easy it is to put down, can’t see myself using anything else in future for similar projects. Soffits and facias nearly there, but the plastics company forgot to deliver the vented ones for the front so hopefully they’ll turn up this week.

To do list

- finish facias, guttering
- find some timber for a windowsill
- install window
- make a door frame / door
- sort out some cladding
 
no reason not to add the battens I don't think.
Ensure they are vertical, not horizontal, so that water cannot pool, and if they need to be horizontal because your cladding is vertical then you need to double batten:
vert batten -> horiz batten -> vert cladding
Check Tyvek website for UV resilience, it should be waterproof but its not designed to be in the sun so might have a UV volatility

Martin

I’m thinking about doing the back and sides in steel, corrugated or similar. Can’t make my mind up whether the batten orientation makes any difference, if I go straight to horizontal? (Or not, and put the sheeting the other way like this, but I’m not so sure…)

8FD6C9C7-DA06-4072-A497-817E15E0A880.jpeg
 
I’m thinking about doing the back and sides in steel, corrugated or similar. Can’t make my mind up whether the batten orientation makes any difference, if I go straight to horizontal? (Or not, and put the sheeting the other way like this, but I’m not so sure…)

View attachment 145570

That’s a pretty cool look, interesting solution for cladding. The battens give an attachment point for the cladding and create a air gap that can dry out is water penetrates the cladding which is just a ‘rain screen’.
With corrugated steel being impermeable you may argue that there will be no rain penetration so it’s irrelevant. If you wanted belt and braces I’d want this gap to breath so I would run the battens vertically and ensure a gap top and bottom with and insect mesh barrier.
 
That’s a pretty cool look, interesting solution for cladding. The battens give an attachment point for the cladding and create a air gap that can dry out is water penetrates the cladding which is just a ‘rain screen’.
With corrugated steel being impermeable you may argue that there will be no rain penetration so it’s irrelevant. If you wanted belt and braces I’d want this gap to breath so I would run the battens vertically and ensure a gap top and bottom with and insect mesh barrier.
I could vent it into the soffit without too much trouble, then seal it along the top. It looks like insect mesh is available for profiled stuff but I’m not sure how effective it would be, tempted not to bother, I’m not sure how much of a pest insects could be (famous last words)
 
I could vent it into the soffit without too much trouble, then seal it along the top. It looks like insect mesh is available for profiled stuff but I’m not sure how effective it would be, tempted not to bother, I’m not sure how much of a pest insects could be (famous last words)
I have a few famous last word potentials with my shed. I think you understand the ideal and the trouble providing it, then you make a decision and history will be the judge.
 

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