sharpening why a curved plane blade

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Frank & Derek, those are some fine posts!
Question for Derek: How did you check your long straightedge? I've made shorter ones by comparing 3 of them until they all match but I'd like to avoid that much work for an 8 footer I need. :lol:
 
so what it boils down to is you have to do the chuck berry duck walk,
and show your knees to the public.is that worse than builders bum.
mind you i do worry about your back working that low to the ground in the first picture.

seriously my hat is doffed to you guys. so much skill and so little time.

all we need now is wider boards to work with.

thanks again to everybody for the information and the news, makes it all worthwhile.
paul
may all your shavings be plane :wink:
 
I know, I know - can't find 'em like that myself anymore

I guess now's not the time t say I canna move for the bl&%dy things..???

16 off 9ft+ boards kept in the den cos I canna keep em in the shop and work in there too....

<le sigh..

such hardships...
 
Anyone read Odate's latest article in PW on how to use 500 US dollars worth of cambered diamond plates to put .0025" radius on your finishing blades! Essential kit for sure.

I do get nervous when I hear people recomending diamond plates for contouring stones, since that has always been fatal with previous diamond stones I have owned. The diamonds are tough, but the bonds get washed away with the stone paste. Maybe they have that problem beat?

I don't think the idea that wooden planes need cambered irons because they don't have lateral adjustment is accurate. You can make wooden planes with as much lateral adjustment as you want, though if you know how to sharpen, why would you need it?
 
i too read about the cambered stones, and the whole article. still not sure the so called science makes sense, but hey you can only try.
as for my comment about wooden planes, what i was saying was that
early ones were such because of the lack of adjustment.
but then i have still not properly figured out how to adjust my
newer, but wooden planes.
paul ](*,)
 
Your right that you can't as easily adjust them, but if that was a recognized problem back when they were the only choice, one could have tapered the blade or changed channel shape. My japanese planes use tapered blades, and on the coarser models you can adjust the angle quite a bit. A plane where the wedge is separate offers all kinds of adjustment potential. One of the things I like about wooden planes (more mater of the format than the material in this case). Is that at their simplest, say the Japanese models, you just drop the blade in, give them a tap, and everything is where it should be. You don't need to adjust them.
 
peter
must say i think you are wrong to relate japanese planes to so called
european ones. because of the pull stroke, the whole technology
and layout is different.

tapping planes to get them right as you have to with european wooden ones is a pain.

paul :wink:
 
Paul
Gotta disagree with you there-how is a pulling plane different to a pushing plane?? Wooden body, cutting iron, breaker/wedge. Same thing.
Think the curved iron thing is making you think too hard! :wink:
Cheers
Philly :D
 
maybe i am thinking too hard, but actually have never seen a japanese plane in the wood, so do not know how the blades come from the
manufacturer.

but in view of how a pull saw works compared with a push one,
i have to figure the pull plane would be similarly different.

knew i should not have started this!!!!!!!!!!!!! (hammer)
paul
 
The pull plane is different from push. Body mechanics are different. The thing I notice most, though, is the anchor effect. The power hand is in front of the blade not behind, and so the balde self-sets like an anchor, which is why the lighter the better is the maxim for a pull plane. The planes just don't stutter. I once used the same plane to do all the planing on a trimaran I was building. Plywood, spruce, fiberglass. It took a long time, but eventually the plane blade got real dull. I just wacked the blade out further, and it would keep cutting even when hugely dull. When it got back to home base I had to both sharpen it, and re-sole it.
 
There are one handed planes of both type. Say block planes. The standard euro block plane is gripped behind the edge, the standard Japanese one is gripped in front. When you pull the Japanese plane from in front of the edge, the edge catches just as an anchor does, and wants to work deeper, by geometry, not weight or technique. Euro planes have the power behind the edge, they want to polevault out of the cut, causing chatter. We add weight, and perfect our techniques.

I use both types in the shop. Each will work perfectly well. I just recently finished a jack plane that is a bit like a clark and Williams, but has an old Lee valley japanese blade in it. It is part of a set of three jacks I am fooling with

None of this has anything to do with adjusting blades. Japanese blades aren't any easier to tap straight than any other. They have the advantage of just dropping in place perfectly, so no adjustment is required. And once you have the skill to cut the plane beds like that, you have long since stopped worrying about lesser things.
 

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