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Sharpening Great American Tooth pattern saw

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dh7892

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Hi folks,

I have just scored this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251023323...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1413 saw on ebay. I have a lot of trees in my garden that produce plenty of logs to saw up. I thought I've give this type of saw a try as my bow saw is not up to the task and I didn't fancy a chain saw.

From what I've read so far, I think it's got Great American Pattern type of teeth. Does anyone have any experience with sharpening this kind of saw?

In particular, I'd like some clarification on which way to set each tooth. Since it's a one-man saw, I think it makes sense to sharpen it to cut only on the push stroke. If I do this, I can make each group of three teeth: left, right, raker. That makes sense to me but I gather that they're usually set left, right, left, right etc. But won't that mean the raker tooth is misaligned with the score marks?

Any help would be great. I can post some pictures when I get home from work.

Dave
 

Cheshirechappie

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I bought a copy of 'Keeping the Cutting Edge - Setting and Sharpening Hand and Power Saws' by Harold H Payson a couple of months ago from Amazon (it's about £6.50, so won't break the bank). It's not a thick book, but there's quite a lot of good advice in it, and the type of saw you refer to is covered.
 

dh7892

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Looks like a good book. I might well order myself a copy.

However, Amazon are saying 2-6 weeks for delivery and I'd like to get going a little before that!

I found this thread: http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/17230/Sharpening-tw. About halfway down someone's posted a picture that describes how each tooth should be sharpened.

However, I'm a little confused about what they mean by "cut and drag" teeth. I can't see you you can file a tooth so that it both cuts (needs to come to a point) and drags (needs to be flatter like a rip cut tooth).
 

Harbo

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I have that type of saw that a friend gave to me - never used it though.
With the handle on front I always thought they were 2 handed types?
Will dig it out and have a look at the teeth pattern when I get a chance?



Rod
 

AndyT

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Just checking - your research on other forums etc should have led you to the classic works by Grimshaw - available at the Internet Archive to read on line or download here:

http://www.archive.org/stream/sawshistorydevel00grimrich#page/n5/mode/2up

- and here which should open at a diagram of your saw:

http://www.archive.org/stream/sawfiling ... 9/mode/2up

However, I did recently spot a source not available on line, and have taken a few snaps of the relevant pages - Charles Hayward, in "Tools for Woodwork" 1946 edition. Unfortunately the diagrams are not next to the text and it spreads over several pages so is in lots of bits:







I hope this helps.
 

dh7892

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Many thanks for the replies.

That's very helpful Andy. I'll take a while to digest some of that over a cup of tea but it looks great to get me started.

It is a one-man saw but meant to be used with two hands. You can place the auxiliary handle at either end.

With the handle installed at the far end (as the pictures have it), it's you can get a helper to assist, thus turning it into a sort-of two-man saw. But it's only meant to cut in one direction whereas proper two-man saws are "pull-pull" and cut in both directions.

Dave
 

dh7892

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Yep, I've seen that one already, good information but I wanted some more specifics on the actual tooth pattern I've got.

Andy's links have got the details that I was after.

I'll post an update when I've got round to trying it out!
 

swb58

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I couldn't resist the temptation of picking up a handsaw off the bay recently, 99p and only three miles away. The etched Lloyd Davies name and unusual tooth pattern was a bonus.
I thought it was an M pattern but it's more like a Great American Tooth pattern. It's been plenty sharpened in the past and not all that well but I think I get the basic idea of how it's supposed to look. I'll continue to look for info on the net.

One thing I have found is that there is a 'proper' file available for this tooth pattern, can I make do with more ordinary files like the triangular and a round?

Cheers.
 

Limey Lurker

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If your saw is of the type that may be fitted with a fore handle, should it not be sharpened

so that it cuts on the pull stroke when used single handed?
 

jimi43

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Couldn't see the pictures as they have been removed but if it's like this one...



...it is fairly easy to sharpen with a standard file....



Use the links above...sharpen as shown.



My wife and I cut a large tree with this but don't do what I did and sharpen near steps and step back and grab the nearest thing to hand AFTER you've sharpened it!

:oops: :oops:

That's why I put the gloves on for the rest of the session! They get blinkin' sharp...trust me!

Jimi
 

swb58

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Thanks for the replies. Mine is like that . . . . but smaller :oops:

I'll try and a couple of pics tomorrow.
 

bugbear

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Limey Lurker":g7gayuir said:
If your saw is of the type that may be fitted with a fore handle, should it not be sharpened

so that it cuts on the pull stroke when used single handed?
No more so than a western panel/hand saw. The plate is strong enough (designed that way) to
cut on the push.

BugBear
 

swb58

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I won't be able to get any pictures tonight but here's the ebay number 191169373731

Click on 'See original listing' to see more piccys.
 

pedder

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Wow, Jim you're saw sharpener! Your teeth look very well!

Cheers
Pedder
 

jimi43

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Thanks Pedder but I think that sharpening this giant hardly qualifies me for the saw sharpeners guild....I would be the third apprentice in a mill with that prowess!!

But thanks anyway mate! :wink:

Cheers

Jim
 
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