Shaping Aluminum

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mrbingley

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Hi,
Is it possible to use a router to cut/shape Aluminum ?
The reason I ask, is because I want to make a T-Slot runner to fit in my table saw, which is not the standard size.

Cheers
Chris.
 
Should be no problems, I flushed trimmed the end of my T track using my router when I made my router table top. Cutters are available for cutting ally, as they use them in the window manufacturing industry. I used a normal bearing guided trim bit, kept the speed high(ish) and the cuts really small. Surface finish was a bit wavy, but a bit of fine wet & dry sorted that.
 
Cheers Neil. I think I'm going to be getting into woodworking quite a bit (blame Norm!!!). As mentioned in previous post I'm currently making a router station. Having the top hinged to a wall, as space won't allow a proper table (yet). Will post pics soon.
 
DazW72":ufl300ee said:
Should be no problems, I flushed trimmed the end of my T track using my router when I made my router table top. Cutters are available for cutting ally, as they use them in the window manufacturing industry. I used a normal bearing guided trim bit, kept the speed high(ish) and the cuts really small. Surface finish was a bit wavy, but a bit of fine wet & dry sorted that.

I would recommend setting the speed as low as possible and taking very light cuts. Milling machines run at speeds much slower than routers, and are used for machining metals including aluminium. Perhaps engineerone could enlighten us more.

Brad[/i]
 
I am no pro on this but....I would also to tend to go for a lower speed.

The heat that is generated by the high speed may warp the aluminium.



I may be wrong tho? :?:
 
A slow speed on the router would still be fast compared to a milling machine. But you also need to use a cooling fluid to stop the aluminium burning to the cutter, we used to use paraffin but be careful.

Les
 
Thanks for the replies.
I've been scouring the net and one of the sites I went to was on about using a "climb cut".
Is this the same as routing in the opposite direction to normal ?

Les
What about the paraffin getting into the router/spraying everywhere ?
I was going to do it using my router table.

Chris.
 
Yes climb cutting is opposite to normal, which is fine if you're on a milling machine and everything is fixed so tight and to something so solid you'd need a bomb to move it. Basically if there's any movement at all the cutter will try to climb over the workpiece and fire it out the other end, possibly destroying both workpiece and cutter. For routing I'd say avoid it like the plague. But FWIW I'm a trained mechanical engineer and a total newbie at woodworking.

Daz
 
mrbingley":39lmlwl2 said:
Thanks for the replies.
I've been scouring the net and one of the sites I went to was on about using a "climb cut".
Is this the same as routing in the opposite direction to normal ?

Les
What about the paraffin getting into the router/spraying everywhere ?
I was going to do it using my router table.

Chris.

Chris, As DazW72 says, I too would advise you not to 'climb mill' with the router, unless you have some form of controlled feed, you are at risk of the cutter acting like a gear wheel and throwing your aluminium across the shop.

Re: using paraffin, you do not need a great deal of it, a wipe along the metal to be cut with a paint brush should be enough.

Cutting speeds for wrought aluminium alloys:

HSS Cutter 5-600 fpm
Carbide Cutter 11-1200 fpm

I think 500 fpm equates to something like a 1/2" cutter at 10,000 rpm.

(someone please correct me if my memory is wrong)
 
The statements that milling machines cut at much slower speeds than wood is not quite true. Modern machining centers use speeds of up to 40,000 RPM to mill the metal and with only a fine mist of coolant sprayed on the cutter. The speeds are accompanied by equally high feed rates. The main thing to remember is that the chips coming off the bits are very fine, almost fluffy and they take the heat away from the bit and the part being cut, unlike the mills in the past that took a slower heavy cut that was flooded with coolant for lubrication and of course cooling.

My knowledge is first hand as we machine aircraft wing ribs from aluminium plates 6" x 24" x 72" to 84" in about 4 hours each.

If you decide to route aluminium take light cuts with sharp bits. I would also add to the advice of not climb cutting, don't make any cuts that won't clear the chips, like dovetail or 'T' slots.

The process is nasty and you will want to wear long sleaved shirts buttoned to the top, gloves, eye protection plus a face shield, and ear protectors. Unlike wood chips those alloy ones are sharp and hot, and are not in the least bit comfortable when they settle and collect in your belly button.

On several occasions I've used my trim router with a 1/8th round over bit, dry, to break the edges on some electric motor mounts that I got the foreman (ssshhh!!!) to make for me, without any problems.

There is some differences in aluminium alloys that affect the way they cut. The alloys commonly used in aviation (2000 & 7000 series) route cleaner than the softer commercial (1000 & 6000 series) in my experience. The commercial alloy 6061 being most commonly used by manufacturers to make aftermarket woodworking accessories has a tendency to 'stick' to router bits because of the relative softness that the harder alloys don't. If you're getting metal from a scrap dealer and can get the harder aircraft alloy don't pass it up unless they are trying to charge a lot more for it.
 
There's usually always white spirit in stock, saves buying paraffin, which isn't easy to find in the stix - also self cleaning as it evaporates quicker. Trend sell a wax stick for lubricating cutters working on ali - could rub some over the work in the way of the cutter?

If the work is small back it up with something weighty if you can to help reduce vibration, and take V small cut, or surface will be unexpectedly rough. The window people etc use HSS or special HSS spiral router bits, I haven't had the courage to try a woodworking carbide spiral...
 
Hi CHris,

I'm a bit concerned about the safety aspects of do this. Whilst it is certainly possible it has got to be risky. I would not want you ending up with a ID like mine!!
If you want to pm me a sketch of what you need, I have a small milling machine and might be able to make it for you.

Regards

Bob
 
9fingers":1lu8v91x said:
Hi CHris,

I'm a bit concerned about the safety aspects of do this. Whilst it is certainly possible it has got to be risky. I would not want you ending up with a ID like mine!!
If you want to pm me a sketch of what you need, I have a small milling machine and might be able to make it for you.
snip

Sounds like an offer well worth taking up.
I don't know if it's relevant to what you are doing, but one nasty surprise I had recently was to discover that it's not just wood that moves after it is cut. Needed to cut a narrow strip off a wider piece of ally bar, and by the time I had cut a couple of inches, the end of the cut had closed up completely. If the same sort of thing could happen when routing, I guess it could get tricky.
 
I have cut slots and holes in aluminium using a router very successfully.

I used a HSS cutter specially made for cutting aluminium by Trend. It has spiral flutes and the cutting angles are very different from router bits for wood. The clearance after the cutting edge is significantly greater too.
 
9fingers":2s268eyw said:
Hi CHris,

I'm a bit concerned about the safety aspects of do this. Whilst it is certainly possible it has got to be risky. I would not want you ending up with a ID like mine!!
If you want to pm me a sketch of what you need, I have a small milling machine and might be able to make it for you.

Regards

Bob


Thanks very much for the offer Bob.
There's no great hurry about this, just something that crossed my mind.
But I'll certainly PM you if needed if that's OK.

Cheers :D
Chris.
 
Hi Chris,

No problem. I invariably have a whole load of round-2-it ideas I'm thinking about that don't come to fruition for months.

Just let me know if I can help. I lurk on the board most evenings soaking up the knowledge that abounds here.
If by making the odd item using my metalworking skills for people here then that goes someway to repay for what I learn about woodwork.

regards

Bob
 

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