Shaker doors in MDF

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tezza111

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Hi there

I'm making a wardrobe for my sons room. I was hoping to make the doors in MDF and shaker style. I read a few posts on here as to how to do them properly i.e loose tenons etc but I don't have the tools to do them that way yet.

Has anyone made them from say 12mm with 6mm glued over styles and rails. I'm assuming from what I read that they will
warp if I don't do both sides?

If i do both sides do I need a special hinge? as if I do both sides then Ive got a 24mm door. Im used to just making flat doors from 18mm MDF and using standard Blum clip on hinges. Is there anything else to consider with thicker 24mm doors when hanging them on the carcass. Or is there a better configuration of mdf for these.

Thanks for any help offered.

Tel
 
Ahh the way i would do this in mdf is with 6mm.

I would have a 6mm core the size of the door. Then cut stiles/ rails out of 6mm mdf and glue them on front and rear. Then paint as normal once cleaned up. Blum hinges should be fine. :)
 
Hi,

I make these doors regularly. I made 4 just two days ago size 1450x598 and have also made taller ones. My method (and I know its cheating but I am not a master carpenter :) is a 12mm mdf door with 6mm strips arranged on the outside. I prefer a 4 panel victorian arrangement personally.

Glue the pieces on, then immediately lay flat with some weight on them. I use the granite kitchen worktop- wife loves it!!

These have never warped for me and take a standard kitchen door 'blum' style hinge,

Cheers
M
 
I make doors like this all the time. (If the price or time allows I will make them properly with a grove all round and a tennon on the rails) I find if you plant 6mm onto 12 it bends. It helps massively if you don't glue it. Or if you feel you have to, just the smallest possible amount. It's the glue drying that bends the mdf. I use 15mm pins and an air gun. If your careful and measure properly, you can use an ordinary 170 degree Blum hinge with a 24 mm door, just drill the hole a bit further away from the edge of the door.
 
A good tip for you ....don't use regular mdf ,use a decent (ie medite) moisture resistant mdf. Its much better to work with and will finish better

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
Concealed hinges should work ok on a 24mm door although it may depend on whether the doors are to be overlay or inset.

I would do a trial using a length of 24mm material, say 100mm wide and fit it with a pair of hinges to a scrap piece of sheet material. Getting the distance of the 35mm hole to the edge of the door is the key (and the right hinge!).
 
I'm not sure what tools you have but sometimes there is more than one way to skin a cat. If you have any means of grooving router or table saw (I think that might be against HSE guidance) you could use that to do loose tongues on the rails and stiles. If it is all going to be made out of MDF you can glue the panel in place also, which, helps with the stiffness.

I made 1.8m by 0.6m doors this way using 18mm MDF for the rails and stiles, and 6mm for the panels. I used butt hinges and magnetic catches top and bottom and it worked well.

Regards,

DT
 
A designer furniture company I know WELL does the adding of 6mm strips thing on everything! !
If its good enough for the price they charge. ..... and people buy it.... its good enough for me!!!

:lol: :lol:
 
carlb40":1an8ktey said:
Ahh the way i would do this in mdf is with 6mm.

I would have a 6mm core the size of the door. Then cut stiles/ rails out of 6mm mdf and glue them on front and rear. Then paint as normal once cleaned up. Blum hinges should be fine. :)


12mm does not give enough depth for a blum hinge. 18mm is about the minimum thickness required. HTH, Neil
 
lincs1963":30rlt6ri said:
carlb40":30rlt6ri said:
Ahh the way i would do this in mdf is with 6mm.

I would have a 6mm core the size of the door. Then cut stiles/ rails out of 6mm mdf and glue them on front and rear. Then paint as normal once cleaned up. Blum hinges should be fine. :)


12mm does not give enough depth for a blum hinge. 18mm is about the minimum thickness required. HTH, Neil
it adds up to 18mm

6mm core
6mm each side

3 x 6 =18 :D

please dont take offence as it is only a misread

Steve
 
Thanks for all the replies and ideas.

I am tempted to try the 6mm planted on to 12mm as these doors are only 1440 high and 500 wide. I'm aware the may warp
but If I can keep them flat and only use minimal glue I'm hoping they won't. I like the 6mm x3 method too. A bit more work
and I don't really need the shaker style on the inside.

Cheers again

Tel
 
Tel,

I have made around 50 doors like this, some have been 1950x600. I have never had problems with warping. Just to confirm, I use Medite MDF (not moisture resistant which I know is also better). I nail with 16 gauge paslode pins (15mm). I also put plent of glue on first. I will post a picture shortly as I glued some up last week and happened to take a picture for a colleague,

Cheers
 
Here are couple of pics, one showing the amount of glue I use and the other finished (but not trimmed to size). I forgot to mention, I always put weight on these on a VERY flat surface IMMEDIATELY after gluing up!

Cheers Mark

approx 1440x600



 
Thanks for the help Mark. I'm happier putting plenty of glue so will give em a go this way. Cheers for the heads up.
I'll post a picture when there done.

All the best

Tel
 
This wasnt meant to be a WIP, but to give them doors some context.. This is in my sons bedroom..



And inside, Birch ply boxs, this one with shelves, the others with hanging rails.



Cheers
Mark
 
Nice work Mark.....those doors look great. If you don't mind answering one more question!
I understand about putting some weight on them but do you have a preferred way when you lay them to dry? Do you have the flat side upwards or vice versa?
Does it really matter?

Cheers

Tel
 
I dont think it really matters, when I made these four, some were face up, some down, just how I picked them up really!

I only fitted them this morning, painting next, really not my fav part :cry:
 
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