Setting up the Wadkin ags10

[Peter G Denmark]

I just figured out it's called "Gear Backlash" and the adjustment is called anti backlash, and is de facto in all high end table saws.

 

[kirkpoore1]

I see what you mean, and agree that the Wadkin doesn't have that adjustment. And I think we agree that the blade has a chance of moving up or down due to the play between the gear teeth and the worm screw. However, I disagree that the technique of lowering the blade won't work. I suggest you try it and see.

Kirk

 

[Peter G Denmark]

Thanks Kirk.

I will ofcourse give it a try - you seem to have a good grasp on what i'm on about, and you certainly have a better understanding on the table saw mechanics than i do.

 

[superunknown]

you have found a way to tighten, and you only have to tighten once (twice)

nip them up nearly tight, then 'adjust' the top with a rubber mallet (carefully) . when you are happy, just tighten up fully.

You should only have to do this once.

In fact, mine was square when I bought it, after maneuvering out of one shop into mine. And it's still square now.

^^^Thats how I did mine too

 

[misterfish]

I've wondered about adjusting out the rise and fall backlash but in use I haven't actually had a problem. The weight of the motor and trunnion assembly is massive enough to hold it 'down'. As it's never caused a problem in use I've just accepted it as a 'feature' of an excellent saw.

Misterfish

 

[Peter G Denmark]

Misterfish

Glad to hear it, since i know you've been using your saw for a long time, and have a stacked dado as well . But you must agree with me, that it's curious, that a professional saw, where you can lock the rise and fall, have backlash and no way of adjusting it. I mean - the rise and fall is used all the time.

If i come up with a solution, i will be sure to post it.

 

[misterfish]

I know that we have an ex Wadkin engineer on this forum (tjwoodms) - if he's around and sees this maybe he could comment or even suggest how to make the adjustment.

Misterfish

 

[9fingers]

I'm very surprised that with the weight of the motor and trunnion there is any possibility of the cutting depth changing once set.
My saw is an xcaliber - nothing special, Chinese import and has the usual worm and quadrant mechanism.

I have added a digital readout to measure blade height and I've not noticed that change during a cut - it will kick by 0.1mm or so when the motor starts but returns to the set figure almost immediately.

I cut nearly all my tenons on the saw and make good use of the dado head without problems.

watching with interest

Bob

 

[paultnl]

Hey Sam.

Thank you for the feedback. I know stacked dados are illegal in the EU, and a lot of people frown upon the use.

They are not illegal http://www.greatbritishwoodshop.co.uk/T ... fault.aspx

 

[Peter G Denmark]

@paultnl.

Cool info. Just comes to shoe one should never just accept hearsay. I will check out if the rules are the same in Denmark and Sweden (i am from Denmark, and work there, but i live in Sweden).

I was told it was illegal because of the increased inertia from the heavier dado (compared to a single blade) when the motor break engaged, which could make the arbor nut come loose. I allways found that pretty lame, since there are ways around this.

 

[SammyQ]

Thanks for the clarification Paul, good article. I had noticed dado blades specifically for the Wadkin coming up on Ebay before and assumed they had been retrospectively judged to be similar to sqare knife blocks on planers - mad, bad and dangerous to the body. To see that we can use them on older (heavier, more substantial ?) saws like the AGS 10" is good news. There is NO way I would even think of a Dado blade on the stubby little arbour on my TS200, but the Wadkin's whacking great lump of metal and long thread is a diffierent thing altogether.

Cheers, Sam

 

[misterfish]

As far as dado use goes you will find that their use is specifically covereded in the Wadkin instruction manuals (along with moulding heads as well as associated table inserts). The only thing to bear in mind is that their use is dangerous if the blade is braked.

Misterfish

 

[SammyQ]

Ta! MisterF.; AGAIN! I have the manuals downloaded somewhere, but a full ground floor renovation has hijacked my time considerably and I didn't get to read them properly.

Sam

 

[roadman]

Peter,

it's just wierd that there isn't a way to adjust it in the saw. I mean - a bit of wear will occur over time, and most inexpensive contractor sa have an eccentric shaft that the worm gear is mounted to, so out can turn the shaft a little, and hence press the worm closer to the gear.
But on the Wadkin ags10, there is a fixed hooe that holds the shaft, and this is a serious design flaw, if there is no other way to adjust the mechanism.

Hmm - i hope i'm wrong, because the worm and gears doesn't look that worn, so if there is a way to push the worm closer to the center of the gears, or raise the worm a bit, the play would be gone.

Really, the shaft bore should be off-center in the bearing housing, and the hole in the sidewall of the housing for its capture should be a slot at constant Z, such that rotation of the housing by several degrees would raise or lower the worm gear to adjust the backlash...after which the pipscrew could be re-tightened and the tilt pointer re-positioned for accuracy. Faced with a concentric bore, your idea of milling the hole into a slot along Z to advance the worm gear toward tangency is good if the housing can be held securely thereafter; alternatively one may add shims to the thrust bearing stack between the worm and the bearing housing, at least up to the point where the pin for the handwheel starts to hang on the front of the bearing housing.

If adjustment is impossible, where can i get a hold of the part they call "racked quadrant for rise and fall" part no.1026/14 for a wadkin bursgreen. The Number on the maschine is 10AGS7615428. That is the gear part - the worm looks pretty new.

Good luck with that. It's made of unobtanium, you know.

Art

 

[Gardekan]

Hi there. I can see that it's been a while since last activity here, but I hope that some of you Wadkin conneseurs are still listening...

I have recently bought an old model of the AGS10 and have just now discovered that the 1026/14 quadrant on the saw is seriously worn. Anybody know if it is possible to get those?

Thanks in advance

 

[SammyQ]

You can get a skilled welder to build up the teeth and you then mill or file them to the correct profile. It's a LONG tricky job...are these teeth/that quadrant really slipping? Looks like plenty of meat left on them.

Replacement parts? Hmm...Scott and Sargeant, G&M Tools, sometimes you get lucky on ebay. The AGS is still made (I think) just a pressed steel box rather than the lovely cast stuff of old, possibly a call to Dalton/Wadkin?

Here's a start: http://www.daltonswadkin.com/products/wadkin-ags300/

Sam