Haven't used the P/T for several years now so decided to give it a clean up and new knives ready for a project I'm just about to start.
Took the knife block apart and realised that the holding screws and the two cap heads which lift the knives were very rough so took them out and polished them up held in a pillar drill down on some wet'n'dry and in some cases a file. Cleaned out the knife block slot again with some wet'n'dry and then re-assembled.
Then looked at the tables and set the infeed table at 1mm above the diameter of the knife block (as per Scheppach instructions) and zero'd the depth pointer. Took the outfeed table off and gave it a good clean. Loosen the eight screws which provide the movement for the table and then placed it back on and gradually nipped the screws back up just enough that they would hold the table but not enough that when tapped with a hammer they would move.
My question is; what sort of tolerance should I be working to in getting the tables coplanar?
I have a piece of shim which is .0035" thick and using a 1 metre steel rule and a 900mm piece of oak which I machined straight many years ago I can just get the shim under in a couple of places.
Bearing in mind that the tables are made from fabricated steel with strengthening U sections welded underneath I don't think they were ever completely flat!! A couple of years after I bought the P/T they changed to cast beds!!
Using the iGauge Snap Check the edges of the tables which are closest to the knife block are within .001"
Richard
Took the knife block apart and realised that the holding screws and the two cap heads which lift the knives were very rough so took them out and polished them up held in a pillar drill down on some wet'n'dry and in some cases a file. Cleaned out the knife block slot again with some wet'n'dry and then re-assembled.
Then looked at the tables and set the infeed table at 1mm above the diameter of the knife block (as per Scheppach instructions) and zero'd the depth pointer. Took the outfeed table off and gave it a good clean. Loosen the eight screws which provide the movement for the table and then placed it back on and gradually nipped the screws back up just enough that they would hold the table but not enough that when tapped with a hammer they would move.
My question is; what sort of tolerance should I be working to in getting the tables coplanar?
I have a piece of shim which is .0035" thick and using a 1 metre steel rule and a 900mm piece of oak which I machined straight many years ago I can just get the shim under in a couple of places.
Bearing in mind that the tables are made from fabricated steel with strengthening U sections welded underneath I don't think they were ever completely flat!! A couple of years after I bought the P/T they changed to cast beds!!
Using the iGauge Snap Check the edges of the tables which are closest to the knife block are within .001"
Richard
