Paul.J
Established Member
And here are my second and third.
Again Oak was used for the one on the right and Hawthorne for the other.
Still got plenty to do to catch up with Chas 'n' Co :lol:
That's it for now folks
Paul.J.
second & third
- Thread starter Paul.J
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And here are my second and third.
Again Oak was used for the one on the right and Hawthorne for the other.
Still got plenty to do to catch up with Chas 'n' Co :lol:
That's it for now folks
Paul.J.
PowerTool
Established Member
Again,nice balanced,flowing shapes and look good.
What finish did you use ? (oiled?)
Don't we all... :wink:
Andrew
What finish did you use ? (oiled?)
Don't we all... :wink:
Andrew
CHJ
Established Member
Paul Johnston":bs1hbydh said:
Nicely done, what diameter is the Hawthorn piece?
Incidently I think it's the one on the right :wink:
Oiled I presume, If you leave them for a few days to harden they will buff up to a higher gloss level.
Paul.J
Established Member
Thanks again Andrew/Chas.
Chas your right,the Oak piece is on the left,just testing :wink:
The Oak bowl as no finish on it,as it didn't really get finished,still got the tenon on the bottom,just another practice piece that came out o.k. :shock:
The Hawthorne bowl was the biggest piece of wood i had left,out of an entire trunk ,as all the others had split and cracked.Which is why i started doing the eggs and trinket boxes.
It is 4-3/4" dia by 1-1/2" deep.
This is finished with beeswax melted on with a cloth.
Paul.J.
Chas your right,the Oak piece is on the left,just testing :wink:
The Oak bowl as no finish on it,as it didn't really get finished,still got the tenon on the bottom,just another practice piece that came out o.k. :shock:
The Hawthorne bowl was the biggest piece of wood i had left,out of an entire trunk
,as all the others had split and cracked.Which is why i started doing the eggs and trinket boxes.It is 4-3/4" dia by 1-1/2" deep.
This is finished with beeswax melted on with a cloth.
Paul.J.
CHJ
Established Member
Paul, if you can run to it I would recommend you try a Cellulose Sanding Sealer and a Soft wax.
The Hawthorne would have come up to quite a high gloss finish in about 30 seconds.
I personally use Chestnuts sealer and WoodWax22 a great deal and find it one of the quickest finishes to apply.
Items intended for constant "wet foods" such as salads with dressings I use oil, others expected to get heavy use for things like nuts semi dried fruit etc. I sometimes finish with a Melamine enhanced finish.
But we have quite a number of small (individual sized) Hazel bowls that were just finished in sealer and woodwax that are constantly used for crisps, salted/roasted nuts dried fruit etc. that are holding good after a couple of years use.
The Hawthorne would have come up to quite a high gloss finish in about 30 seconds.
I personally use Chestnuts sealer and WoodWax22 a great deal and find it one of the quickest finishes to apply.
Items intended for constant "wet foods" such as salads with dressings I use oil, others expected to get heavy use for things like nuts semi dried fruit etc. I sometimes finish with a Melamine enhanced finish.
But we have quite a number of small (individual sized) Hazel bowls that were just finished in sealer and woodwax that are constantly used for crisps, salted/roasted nuts dried fruit etc. that are holding good after a couple of years use.
Paul.J
Established Member
Thanks for that Chas.
I will have to invest in some proper finishes as my work i think is getting a little better, and will deserve a decent finish,but as i say these pieces have really been practice pieces that have only been quickly finished.
The only piece i took some time on finishing was the egg on the stand.This piece came out better than i thought. which is why i gave it to my neighbour.
Could you tell the proceedure for applying the finish.I have always disliked finishing my work but it's not so bad on the lathe :wink:
Paul.J.
I will have to invest in some proper finishes as my work i think is getting a little better,
and will deserve a decent finish,but as i say these pieces have really been practice pieces that have only been quickly finished.The only piece i took some time on finishing was the egg on the stand.This piece came out better than i thought.
which is why i gave it to my neighbour.Could you tell the proceedure for applying the finish.I have always disliked finishing my work but it's not so bad on the lathe :wink:
Paul.J.
CHJ
Established Member
Paul Johnston":1gk6sqz8 said:
Sand down to min 240 grit, carry on down to 320-400-etc. if you can see a difference? (on Oak or Ash you may see no benefit)
I often go from 240-320 straight to the 3 grades of Nyweb which appear to apply a degree of polish to my eyes.
With lathe stationary wipe over with cellulose sanding sealer, either as it is or you may prefer to use it diluted about 20% with cellulose thinners.
Whilst still moist buff at high speed with dry cloth, if streaks build up because of excessive sealer blend out with a sealer moistened cloth or remove with finest (grey) Nyweb.
On some woods the application of sealer may raise the grain a little or you may get a few dust specs incorporated. If so gently de-nib with Grey Nyweb, the finish will matt slightly but no problems with this, just leave as is, smooth as a babys rear.
With lathe stationary, apply coating of Woodwax with soft cloth. (or Grey Nyweb)
Immediately buff this at high speed with soft cloth,
Whole process a matter of a couple of minutes on most items.
On large bowls etc. if base is to be left with spigot or recess then carry out this procedure on base before you remount it to hollow out or finish turn sides.
Paul.J
Established Member
Thanks Chas.
Just printed this info off,will be laminated and hung up by lathe.
Just done a quick search for NYWEB (never heared of it before) only place that came up was THE TOOL POST....Is this where you get your supplies from.
Just printed this info off,will be laminated and hung up by lathe.
Just done a quick search for NYWEB (never heared of it before) only place that came up was THE TOOL POST....Is this where you get your supplies from.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Nyweb: http://www.chestnutproducts.co.uk/
Just to add a litle to Chas' how to... I always use 1200 wet'n'dry to polish the surface before applying any finish... this will show up any small marks left by a tool or sanding... the finish will show them up but it's harder to remove them when a finish has been applied
Just to add a litle to Chas' how to... I always use 1200 wet'n'dry to polish the surface before applying any finish... this will show up any small marks left by a tool or sanding... the finish will show them up but it's harder to remove them when a finish has been applied
Paul.J
Established Member
Wet n dry :!: I haven't used that stuff since i done me old Triumph Vitesse up years ago.As it happens i've still got quite a bit left
I see what you mean though Graham.
I will re-do my lamination with this addition. :wink: Or maybe i'll wait a while
I see what you mean though Graham.
I will re-do my lamination with this addition. :wink: Or maybe i'll wait a while
CHJ
Established Member
Paul, if you are going to re-do the "method" You may prefer to use a strip (30X100mm) of Grey Nyweb to apply wax, this can be folded and kept in tin. Does not dry out like cloth.
Senior moment there forgot that snippet.
Senior moment there forgot that snippet.
