Scrubs up nicely

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bodgermatic

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Quick question: when using a scrub plane (scrubbing?), is it normal practice to stop short of the far edge to avoid tearing the edge, or should I be supporting that edge with some clamped scrap and scrub right on through.

Cheers chaps.
 
You plane straight across.

If you are working with such brittle wood that you fear it breaking out badly, then either take shallower slices or chamfer the far edge.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
bodgermatic":41dhelm6 said:
Thanks, Derek. :)

Just to expand, with a scrub plane, you're working so roughly that 1/8" tear out or spelching (should be) of no issue.

If you're workign closer than that you should be using a "finer" tool e.g. a mildly cambered jack.

BugBear
 
Just got hold of a scrub plane after reading reviews and the like ... and wow! What a beast. To try it out, pulled out a split beech log from the firewood pile, took of about a cms thickness to roughly flatten the split surface and get rid of the heartwood pith ... then took the jointer too it and made a smooth flat surface ... in a matter of minutes. Would have taken hours or I wouldn't have bothered with the tools I've used before. Hand-prepping boards looks a lot more plausible!
 
bodgermatic":3r927voi said:
This weekend I learned why you don't put a secondary bevel on a scrub blade. :roll:

Err. Do tell - because I have a secondary bevel on my scrub blade, and everyone seems fine.

BugBear
 
Having given the issue some more thought, I think it might be the fact that the primary bevel on the iron is close to 45 degrees. With the bedding angle also at 45 degrees, putting a secondary on it meant that the cutting edge of the iron was actually higher (when viewed from the side) than the back of the secondary bevel.

I've borrowed the scrub from a friend who inherited his grandfather's tools, but doesn't yet use them (I'm trying to change that!) so I'm obviously reluctant to mess around with it too much. All I've done to it is to de-rust the blade and lightly rub the (wooden) body with wire wool. Hence I've stayed away from major grinding. The blade is lovely, tapered from top to bottom, and at least 3mm thick at the business end, it's stamped G BALDAUF. So I guess the queston is, is what _should_ the grinding angle be on this tool? I have to say, once I removed the secondary and returned it to how it was before I sharpened it the plane started to cut beatifully again.
 
I'd say that scrub has never been used! Your friend will thank you for adding a 30 degree primary.

The patina on the body of the plane says differently, as do a few deep scratches on the sole. Add that to the fact that it cuts nicely again once I undid the secondary bevel. His grandfather's name is stamped into the plane, and the other 4 or five he had. I'm reluctant to arrive at the conclusion that he didn't know what he was doing! Is there really any reason to regrind it?
 
the primary bevel on the iron is close to 45 degrees

Any reason to regrind?

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sorry. Couldn't help myself.

45 degree grind on a 45 degree bed = no cutting at all. Regrind to 30 degrees.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
the primary bevel on the iron is close to 45 degrees

Any reason to regrind?

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Sorry. Couldn't help myself.

45 degree grind on a 45 degree bed = no cutting at all. Regrind to 30 degrees.

Regards from Perth

Derek


I don't follow, surely on a plane of this type the bevel is down.
 
45 degree grind on a 45 degree bed = no cutting at all. Regrind to 30 degrees.

Indeed :) Hence me saying 'close to 45 degrees' Hard to eyeball and I don't have a protractor handy, but I'd guess 42-43 degrees.

lurker":3nqiwcnw said:
I don't follow, surely on a plane of this type the bevel is down.

It is, I'll try and get a photo, maybe that'll make things clearer.
 
Here's the beast in question:

dsc02200u.jpg


The blade in situ to help you judge the angle (projection exaggerated for effect, focus not great :) ):

dsc02198c.jpg


The blade alone:

dsc02199e.jpg
 
bodgermatic":5lw6i45k said:
Here's the beast in question:

The blade alone:

dsc02199e.jpg

Hmm. I'm not sure wether that's a 45 degree single bevel, or the rounded-bevel-from-hell.

Either way, you need a little more "relief". As you've deduced, having a final edge parallel with the sole is not ideal :)

If you want to keep the alteration minimal, just head for 40 degrees, single bevel.

BugBear
 
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