Scratch Awl - fettling?

[bugbear]

Just got a rather nice scratch awl - it's rusty and worn, and will need fixing up.

Is there an optimal tip size and taper?

I know from my own research on cutting gauges used for marking as opposed to slitting that there are choices to be made here,

BugBear

 

[rxh]

This photo is of a Riley Tool Works scratch awl (sadly I think they are no longer made). The main taper is about 7 degrees and the tip taper is about 30 degrees (tapers expressed as whole angles).

 

[ED65]

I've never fettled a commercial one only made my own, but I go for a long point (single taper) and get it as sharp as poss as that seems to give the best scratch on any material.

Obviously the angle that will work in practice is determined by the quality of the steel and how you use it, but IMO any awl that requires 30° at the tip for work on wood (and softer metals) simply isn't hard enough.

 

[AndyT]

Surely the answer is that you should sharpen each of your awls slightly differently so that whatever the job, one of them will be ideal. You don't only have one, do you? :wink:

 

[bugbear]

Surely the answer is that you should sharpen each of your awls slightly differently so that whatever the job, one of them will be ideal. You don't only have one, do you? :wink:

I only have 1 scratch awl, newly purchased.

I do have 3 traditional, double ended, take-your-eye-out traditional marking knives though.

BugBear

 

[Carl P]

I only have 1 scratch awl, newly purchased.

I do have 3 traditional, double ended, take-your-eye-out traditional marking knives though.

BugBear

In which case, how many eyes do you have left, and how many did you start with? And does the answer make you part of the alien sharpening conspiracy that seems to be sweeping the woodworking world of late?

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[David C]

B-B,

I have just looked at a Blue Spruce awl and though it is difficult to be sure, I think the included angle is 27.5 degrees.

Best wishes
David

 

[bugbear]

Overall length, point to end of handle is 7"

I was intrigued that is has a properly forged bolster (and presumably tang as well).

Any tips on sandpapering such a sharp, ready for a re-finish, without mussing up all the arrises and beads?

BugBear

 

[ED65]

That looks a lovely one.

Does it need sanding? If the old finish is failing and needs to come off then it needs to come off, but I'd strip it myself if I had the least worries about maintaining sharp arrises etc. If the wood does need to be smoothed off I'd tackle any tricky areas with needle files instead of paper, unless you want to make a few sanding strips by bonding paper to lolly sticks or whatever.

 

[bugbear]

That looks a lovely one.

Does it need sanding? If the old finish is failing and needs to come off then it needs to come off, but I'd strip it myself if I had the least worries about maintaining sharp arrises etc. If the wood does need to be smoothed off I'd tackle any tricky areas with needle files instead of paper, unless you want to make a few sanding strips by bonding paper to lolly sticks or whatever.

The handle has uneven finished (cracked, flacking), and the usual bits of paint and plaster. I think it deserves a refurb.

Stripping and careful scraping may be the way. I'll try that.

BugBear

 

[AndyT]

Here's mine for comparison, in case it helps.

I'd say that the handle is French polished and is probably in original condition.

And here's the pointed end, which I would have rubbed on a bit of sandpaper to get it sharp

 

[bugbear]

Very cute - interesting that the handle, both in material and design is nicer(*) than mine, but the blade is (as far as I can see) a plain rod, not forged with a bolster.

I'm also intrigued at the length of the blade and bulbous handle that seems to be uniform on these older scratch awls; I can only assume it's exactly what's needed for the traditional mode of holding/use, but it's not obvious to me what that is.

Book time!

BugBear

(*) in the pre 1900 sense

 

[Jacob]

Just got a rather nice scratch awl - it's rusty and worn, and will need fixing up.

Is there an optimal tip size and taper?....

No of course not. Just sharpen it and go! If in doubt; 30º

 

[AndyT]

Book time!

Marples 1938 page 51 would be one place to start - the engraving shows a similar but not identical bulbous handle, calls it a "beech handled shouldered marking awl" and says they were sold in assorted blade lengths of 5, 5 1/2 and six inches. 7s 6d per dozen. I think mine is box, so it might have cost as much as a shilling.

Awls are one of those unconsidered tools, essential to so many lost trades. I'm guessing, but perhaps a bolster was common where the shaft was pushed through the work (as in shoemaking) - but I've also seen references to awls being used as a temporary fixing or a fence to work against, when knocked into the bench, so perhaps a stronger pattern was just more versatile.

 

[Jacob]

.... I've also seen references to awls being used as a temporary fixing or a fence to work against, when knocked into the bench, so perhaps a stronger pattern was just more versatile.

Yep thats why you need two bradawls when hanging a door - one holds the hinge in place whilst you make a hole with the other and hammer in a screw.

PS or three if it was a horizontal strap hinge.

 

[whiskywill]

unless you want to make a few sanding strips by bonding paper to lolly sticks or whatever.

They are called emery boards. Laydeez use them to file their nails and I use them for fine detail work.

 

[woodpig]

Interesting how these leather workers scratch awls have such a different profile of the shaft.

http://www.csosborne.com/no4.htm

 

[bugbear]

Interesting how these leather workers scratch awls have such a different profile of the shaft.

http://www.csosborne.com/no4.htm

There's a lot of different between the leather awls (thank you!), my scratch awl, the modern "premium" scratch awls, and the "pointy end" of my striking knives.

The Crown Tools version is very similar to mine and AndyT's;

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

Herewith from AndyT's 1938 Marples catalogue, p15

The uniform taper of the scratch awl (1876) seems very similar to the "pointy end"
of Knife End Marking Awl (1875) and Striking Knife (1877).

BugBear

 

[ED65]

They are called emery boards. Laydeez use them to file their nails and I use them for fine detail work.

I use them too, for both purposes :lol:

But making your own sanding sticks allows you to do things like wrap the abrasive around a corner so you can more easily sand inside profiles, such as those on BB's awl.