SC3 Chuck and remounting jaws

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26 Nov 2017
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Hi all. I recently bought a Record SC3 Chuck and remounting jaws. On assembling the jaws onto the Chuck it became obvious that the Chuck key want long enough v to turn freely without fouling against the remounting jaws. I need an extended Chuck key to clear the jaws so tang record power to ask if one was available. Apparently they don't do on and their only solutionb to the problem was to buy another Chuck key from record, cut it in half and weld an extension piece in. This wasn't the response I was expecting really. A normal Chuck key won't fit and the jaws won't fit any non record Chuck. Has anyone come across this problem before please?
Axminster Clubman pattern Chucks have similar geared chuck keys, if by any chance they are the same tooth form there is a long stemmed version of those that work with Cole jaws.

Can you post an image of the 'pinion end' and the dimensions of the locating pin and pinion.
Thanks CHJ. The record chuck key is slightly different to the axminster one, it has a slightly waisted portion on the end that prevents the axminster one fitting properly so isnt suitable unfortunately.
That strikes me as pretty poor bit of marketing/design since you bought both bits from the same manufacturer and the website doesn't say "SC4 only" on the remounting jaws. I have the SC3 but no re-mounting jaws - yet.

If you don't have access to a welder of any kind, thinking what I might do in same situation you could get a second key, cut off the handle end and grind a square or hex somehow so you could use a socket and ratchet. Or cut the handle off about midway up the shaft and find a tight fitting tube (old box spanner?) to slip over and drill/pin both ends. Or find someone who can weld like they suggested. Seems harsh that it has become 'your problem' to sort out their issue.

Or ring them again very crossly and make a fuss - see if they will deliver up a solution with a bit of pressure - like at least free issue you an extra handle.
If anyone does need a handle extending it's something I could do pretty easily - pm me if needed.
Record Power were pretty dismissive in their reply to my predicament. Buying another chuck to then cut it in half, invalidating any warranty straight away, then trying to find someone who could weld an extension piece onto it, seems a bit extreme to me. When I was considering the SC3 chuck and remounting jaws Record Power really should have made it clear that the 2 items don't work together. I spent over £150 on the 2 items (not an inconsiderable ammount) and as it stands I can't use them as intended. Very poor Record Power.
If you have spoken to just one person on the phone maybe s/he doesn't reflect the RP approach to service. I would give it another go and if rebuffed ask to speak to the customer service manager on the grounds that their advertising is misleading. Think what the 'win' is for you - the best option might be to swap out the SC3 for an SC4 at no extra cost since it's their failure to supply a working combination. Worth a go, and if you hit a brick wall you are no worse off than you are now. If you have already gone down that route its hard to suggest what next.
I bought the chuck and jaws from Data Powertools who have volunteered to speak to RP on my behalf so hopefully they may have more luck than me.
I ordered the rp 12" jaws from Data a week or so ago and they were out of stock, as are RP at the moment, so I cancelled til I can make my mind up where to buy from (some do have stock but more expensive, and some have the old kit without the angled buffers included - at the same price).
Can you get a quarter turn (or so) before the handle hits the jaws? I do that with the donut chuck I made for a different chuck and it works ok, I find 5 or 6 quarter turns and it's tight, assuming it was near when I started. If not, could you cut some off the handle to allow more rotation? You don't need that much pressure to tighten them up.
Have to say tho, the RP site is pretty misleading, in that you'd think that the SC3 works properly with the jaws without their rather odd and expensive work-around!
Yeah I can get about 1/16th of a turn before it fouls against the jaws. Its a right pain and as you say RP market it as suitable for the SC3 chuck.
geordie458":2xlknjxi said:
Yeah I can get about 1/16th of a turn before it fouls against the jaws.
Yep, that must be pretty annoying. £17 for a new key, drive it somewhere to have someone alter it and pay them for the job and you're looking at a fairly significant % increase in the overall price of the jaws.
From the RP website: "The SC3 chuck is lighter and more compact than the SC4, making it ideal for use on any lathe, particularly small to medium sized machines and is still compatible with the full jaw range." (My bolding)
Clearly a false statement so they should fully refund you and you can then choose whether to buy a SC4 or some other chuck. This problem, by the way, is why ball-ended hex chuck keys are commonly provided - they can be used at an angle, allowing the handle to clear whatever is in the chuck.

I'm afraid RP are prone to ridiculous statements in their advertising (Coronet Herald is a heavy duty lathe??? with professional performance???) and really don't do themselves any favours sometimes - a great shame because I'm sure we'd all prefer to buy our equipment from a British company with high standards of advertising. The SC4 is a nice chuck at a good price though.
This was my solution. Just a steel joining sleeve. Cut the key and secure with epoxy. Pin if required (has not been necessary) Works fine.


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Thanks all for the replies. I just feel a bit let down by RP and as Duncan A quoted from RP, the jaws should work with the SC3 chuck without problems.

Thats a very neat solution bobajob. Do you mind me asking where you got the sleeve from please?
Just a piece in my metal scraps box. Almost any metal would do and you can drill sockets into each end on your wood lathe. Maybe even 15mm copper pipe would do.
I have a SC3 chuck and the large set of remounting jaws. I don't have a problem with using the chuck key - I agree it would be nice if it was longer but it is usable; just takes a bit longer to tighten them up if they are wide open
Please excuse me for jumping in here but I am also thinking of buying the larger remounting Jaws from RP to mount in the SC3 chuck but just wanted to make sure there will be enough clearance from the lathe bed without the jaws bottoming out.
I've got an Axminster midi and the distance from the centre point of the drive centre is 150mm.
Edit. I've tried to get hold of RP but no response.

Thank you all

I sleeved my G3 chuck key although mine is the Nova G3 not the RP G3 so the shank of the chuck key is not waisted like the RP.

I just found some mild steel tube with an I.D a tad smaller than the shaft of the key, cut the key shaft in half and after countersinking one end to fit nicer on the flare on the key welted it on, absolutely solid.