sash pocket chisel
- Thread starter johnnyb
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Ultra-thin chisels can be handy at times. A few years ago I needed to pare a very narrow slot, way too narrow even for my thin pattern-makers chisels , so after casting about a bit, I cut a piece off an old steel circular-saw blade. The plate was about 1.6mm thick , which suited my purpose, and the fact it was a bit soft by chisel standards didn't matter too much for the job I wanted it for.
However, I have used it a few times since, & it was annoyingly soft for harder woods, so I decided to try & harden it. For my first attempt, I quenched in water:
Hmm, that didn't go too well, did it?
So I squared it off & tried again, this time with a vegetable oil quench. That got it hard, not totally hard, it seems to be ok without any tempering. It warped a tiny bit, but that cleaned up pretty quickly on a diamond plate, & my ultra-thin chisel will now pare end-grain effortlessly, and kept doing so until I got tired of making pointless shavings...
So for the once-every-three-year times I need it, I now have a decent little ultra-thin chisel....
Cheers,
However, I have used it a few times since, & it was annoyingly soft for harder woods, so I decided to try & harden it. For my first attempt, I quenched in water:
Hmm, that didn't go too well, did it?
So I squared it off & tried again, this time with a vegetable oil quench. That got it hard, not totally hard, it seems to be ok without any tempering. It warped a tiny bit, but that cleaned up pretty quickly on a diamond plate, & my ultra-thin chisel will now pare end-grain effortlessly, and kept doing so until I got tired of making pointless shavings...
So for the once-every-three-year times I need it, I now have a decent little ultra-thin chisel....
Cheers,
Fabulous. Are you going to demonstrate making a sash pocket with it? After I finish my long-running casement I will have a go at a box sash, the mount of page-space in the old books on cutting pockets is significant.
johnnyb
Established Member
I've actually got a demo sash case i made with 1275gt a few years back with the pockets made and cut. I'll take a few photos and post them up. I didn't use the sash pocket chisel I used a small (150mm)Japanese woodpecker saw.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
I've never found out what the chisels are for exactly. Maybe the cut down the parting slip slot after the saw cuts across the stile?
That would be great
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
If that's more from "Handbook of Door Making Window Making and Stair Casing" ed Antony Talbot? I'd be a bit sceptical!
Have seen those middle of lining pockets but never done one.
I've always done them the simple way (fig. 2b) - 4 sawcuts across the stile and one keyhole saw cut down the slot, then break it out with a hammer. Seems to work OK it goes back in and you don't have to make a separate piece to fit the hole
Except some big ones I did in Ireland, where the weight pockets were cut into the inside lining, for a reason. I might have some photos I'll have a look (pre digicam days).
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Ollie78
Established Member
I never do mine like fig 2a unless really forced to, I always cut them on the inside section of the pulley lining so that when they are in place with the parting bead there is no part of the pocket exposed to the outside.
I also use the non traditional method of a jigsaw for the vertical cut and either a jigsaw or fein saw for the horizontal cuts followed by a whack with a hammer to pop them out. I realise this is probably sacreligious in some way...
I have also seen quite few with the pocket in the inner lining like @Jacob mentions. They always seem to be ambitiously small for some reason.
Ollie
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No, it’s Ellis, I’m liking that one these days.
johnnyb
Established Member
I don't think the sources are particularly faulty I quite like the approach of windowmaking. It's just having a few other sources can help clarify. For example the tapered cross housing used to join pulley stile to cill would be almost impossible to make using the explanation/diagram in windowmaking. It's just a rubbish drawing.
The central sash pocket where the parting bead runs down the middle is from older windows. The later method sensibly moved this behind the lower sash parting bead(basically inside)this is so ubiquitous that I have to conclude little innovation or independent thought was exercised. The process being so well known
The central sash pocket where the parting bead runs down the middle is from older windows. The later method sensibly moved this behind the lower sash parting bead(basically inside)this is so ubiquitous that I have to conclude little innovation or independent thought was exercised. The process being so well known
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
It's how I made mine and you can get to both weights easily with just one pocket. I followed Ellis every time and made a second storey projecting bay window for a 19th C. house in Dartmouth from Ellis to.
It's a very good book to follow.
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Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Which, 2a or 2b? You can get to both weights either way.
The book problem is that you never quite know the authors' sources. Are they describing widespread universal common practice or the latest "good" idea or a higher than average spec for its own sake? I've seen the central pocket on higher spec windows in Buxton but couldn't see the point of it.
One thing certain is that a lot of stuff was done not quite "by the book"!
johnnyb
Established Member
johnnyb
Established Member
johnnyb
Established Member
They hold really well. No nails needed yet! Just when your putting the inside linings on don't put any nails where the pockets go. Damhik.
