Rusty old motorbike tank.

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Dave Hopkins

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Hi, Just starting to restore a 1937 Norton 16h all complete so should be reasonably straightforward But, the inside of the fuel tank is got light/medium rust. anyone cleaned and relined a tank with good results? I am thinking White vinegar but unsure of sellers/liners. Thanks
 
When I was last involved with old bikes and had issues with fuel tanks, if they were bad inside we would remove sections out of the bottom to allow access for cleaning. If the tank is solid then caustic soda works but if it has had dents filled or bodge repairs then these will become very evident ! If only light rust then use some shingle and give it a shake as it is only the loose stuff that will cause issues and then if not being used for a while swill it around with diesel or some light oily mixture just to keep it rust free until use.
 
When I was last involved with old bikes and had issues with fuel tanks, if they were bad inside we would remove sections out of the bottom to allow access for cleaning. If the tank is solid then caustic soda works but if it has had dents filled or bodge repairs then these will become very evident ! If only light rust then use some shingle and give it a shake as it is only the loose stuff that will cause issues and then if not being used for a while swill it around with diesel or some light oily mixture just to keep it rust free until use.
I would second that. If the outside paint is good but inside is full of the brown muck that unleaded lever behind then a mug full of pea shingle and some white spirit just shake and roll until it's clean. Acetone will remove the crud more quickly but not good for paint. If you are going to refinish it anyway then it doesn't matter. If it's rust then just substitute citric or phosphoric acid as the liquid.
 
Hi, Just starting to restore a 1937 Norton 16h all complete so should be reasonably straightforward But, the inside of the fuel tank is got light/medium rust. anyone cleaned and relined a tank with good results? I am thinking White vinegar but unsure of sellers/liners. Thanks
Take a look at 'Biker Stuff' on YT!
 
I bet its the sharpening topic on motor cycle forums!
Where Jacob when you need him!
 
Citric acid is good stuff, quick if used with hot water. Safe as anything to use & dispose (can eat it, take a bath in it - bath bombs made of it). Long time since I used a liner kit but it came with an acid (hydrochloric maybe?) meant to etch, before using the resin. I did shake it with nuts & bolts inside as well to shift loose stuff.

I don't know if it's still an option these days but have heard of people having tanks steam cleaned at radiator repair/build places. It'd still need de-rusting but would be nice & clean inside.
 
I've recently relined a tank with the help of Ian Potter from Tank Care Products near Norwich. The ethanol in petrol these days causes water to accumulate, especially in tanks on bikes that are not used much.
My tank had previously been coated with Petseal which had been degraded by the ethanol and needed removing with a solvent. Ian sells all the gear you need plus is a mine of information (loads of info on his website).
I would suggest that if you simply want to clean your tank, much of what has been said already makes sense. FYI, I wrapped my tank in many layers of cardboard and bubble wrap, put a couple of handfuls of sharp sand and grit in it, wedged it in a cement mixer drum and tumbled it for a few hours.
But I do suggest lining it. It's not hugely expensive to do, it's fairly easy if you take your time and concentrate although you can send your tank to Ian and he will do it for you. Incidentally, he is also one of the best in the business if you want your tank painted, folks send him tanks from all over the world.
One last thing, the only petrol on sale in the UK with no ethanol in it is Esso Synergy +99, except in certain parts of the country because it already has ethanol added at the relevant refinery.
Incidentally it's very easy to remove ethanol from petrol: mix it with water, let it settle and drain the water off which takes the ethanol with it.
Ethanol in fuel is another one of those things with great intentions but not so great in practice........
 
I've relined 7 of my vintage and classic bike tanks and scrupulous preparation is the key to success.
A few straightforward steps to get a result that will outlast the bike and the rider.
Plug all threaded outlets with suitable plugs, I turn soft pine plugs slightly tapered and screw them into each so they protrude into the tank
Remove any fuel residue with a good solvent and rinse, this will expose any flaky rust deposits
Half fill the tank with water and put in sharp objects (I used 2" wood screws) count the number going in.
Vigorously shake the tank for 5 mins
Empty the contents noting any loose bits of rust (count the screws) hopefully end up with the same number.
Do this at least twice until there are no flaky rust deposits.
Dry thoroughly using a hair drier
Etch the tank wall with phosphic acid (cheap on ebay) ready for the coating
Thoroughly wash out the tank and dry
I use POR15 liner from Frost, pour in the liner and move the tank around to ensure the liner covers all areas of the tank.
Used disposable gloves for this stage as the liner will stay on your skin for a week or two.
Leave to cure for 2-3 days indoors
Once cured the wooden plugs can be removed
Did my first one 12 years ago and it's as good as the day it was done
 
half a kilo of used compressed air gun ammunition in the tank, wrap in a blanket, well tied in a concrete mixer.
20 - 30 Minutes, then to another position some Time. I cleaned some old vespa tanks like this.
you only need compressed air, no chemistry.
 
I restore classic cars for a living and everyone i use POR fuel tank kits from Frost. Been spot on for years ive been using it.
 
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